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Thread: fallen trees

  1. #21

    sounds good

    That's pretty much what I have. The edge is probably ground to a chisel point. Mine is very dull from digging roots and rocks, so when I used it on a test tree it didn't gouge the wood much(especially if you hold it with the ground part touching the wood). I'll probably make my other ones with an axe point like taught in class.

  2. #22
    LHBA Member rocklock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Aiea, Hi or when it's warm Camano Island, Washington
    Blog Entries

    Mutt and stuff

    D Ross..
    Thanks... I'm in Hawaii now, so I will make a point of comming over before I do my windows... Pinecone Pam (since she has such great Doug Fir logs- I keep thinking that she should change her handle to Fir Cone... but that's a little silly) has shown her book about how she cut her windows... She has used steel strapping to keep her monster logs from wandering around... I don't remember covering this in class, or in any other blog or book... but I think I will do something like that... I may take another look at her book before I start cutting... We may want to start a new topic about cutting windows...

    Mutt. I bought a scrapper at HD before I got the blue wonder... It sucked... It had a 6" blade with a 30 to 40 degree edge... You need to get under the bark and lift it off. That is the reason a 3 or 4 inch blade will work much better. If the blade has about 20 degree edge and keep it dull... it will slide under the bark... IMHO... having both a long and short handled spud is an advantage... using different muscle sets... So you can get really tired...

  3. #23

    where im building

    ive got 5 acers close to murray kentucky was hopeing to take next class but wife is haveing medical issues right now i sure hope they offer a class in feb or march

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