I loved my father.
I hated my father.
To this day, I'm still learning lessons from him.
You can try it along with me.
His favorite foundation style was Pier Blocks.
It was the only one he taught.
Now try to decipher all the lessons in that.
I loved my father.
I hated my father.
To this day, I'm still learning lessons from him.
You can try it along with me.
His favorite foundation style was Pier Blocks.
It was the only one he taught.
Now try to decipher all the lessons in that.
They have their place....
But then you have to close everything in.....
First time we did modified piers (Sono tubes).
Second time we did ICF.
I would only do ICF again.
jandjloghome.blogspot.com
Completed #1 - Sold #1.....#2 about to start
http://jandjloghome.blogspot.com/
After building a hundred or so I refuse to use pier blocks.
www.WileyLogHomes.com
"Hand Crafted Traditions"
1) If as an owner builder you have to subcontract your foundation, consider another course.
Because next you might be tempted to subcontract your walls.
[That's not intended as a slight toward Ronnie Rock Climber]
2) LHBA Pier blocks are extremely hard to subcontract out, and have them done properly and on time (under budget).
If that gives you problems, then perhaps consider that it's not to late to sell the property with half a foundation on it.
3) As an owner builder concerned with finances: using pier blocks rather than a stemwall + footer will typically enable you to skip:
A) water proofing B) venting C) drainage system D) most of the rebar that would be used for a stemwall foundation E) most of the sill material (PT wood and water barrier)
The vapor barrier that would have been used inside a crawl space is not skipped.
If you're not excited to try something new (or at least seriously consider it) to save money and labor, then perhaps this LHBA system is not right for you?
Last edited by Ellsworth; 08-12-2024 at 05:16 AM. Reason: No warm up, 3 edits
4)
A) Submit your log home plans, with a pier block foundation, to your jurisdiction.
B) If they reject the plan because of the pier blocks, then you are building in the WRONG location.
C) If they approve pier blocks, then you might be building in the RIGHT location.
D) Do step A to see if it leads to B or C, even if you want to build with a stem-wall. You will still learn if you are building in the right location.
If they approve pier blocks, then march in the next day with the stem-wall plan and another check, because you picked the right location.
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Caveat, as with most things in life, a positive attitude will get you further with the planning department than anything except... wealth or political connections!
(Thanks election year, for all the material!)
D is not totally a joke, just sort of. I'd suggest that you don't make them feel tricked, but perhaps start a conversation using pier blocks to explore their willingness to work with the unorthodox, gauge the resistance. It could matter when it comes to later inspections of your log structure.
Last edited by Ellsworth; 08-12-2024 at 05:08 AM. Reason: No warm up, 4 edit
5) You can build the forms in the city, in your driveway, and stack them up to save space.
Trailer them to your build site on a Friday, and if the holes are pre-dug then by Monday you might be ready for the pour.
If a continuous footer is required under the piers in your jurisdiction, add some dig time (yuck).
Last edited by Ellsworth; 08-12-2024 at 05:15 AM. Reason: No warm up, 1 edit
6) The amount of rebar and plywood required for an LHBA pier block system can be scavenged for free in most localities. Regardless of the size home you're building.
7) You can screw up your pier foundation in a lot of ways, and it generally still works out fine.
For instance, if the elevations differ a bit between piers, just use a thicker sill pate or notch the log wall (depending on which way you need to compensate).
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