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No slab. I have a crawl space down under. Under half of the house it is only 2 feet but under the other half it is 5 1/2 feet.Quote:
Originally Posted by pip1972
Stove is on the first floor. First floor is 1,000 sq ft and the upstairs is 750.
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My research led me to believe the best efficiency with the pex tubing is more towards the middle of the slab, not the bottom.
Know how you will fasten the pex and consider allowing for anything penetrating the slab like saw cuts or nailed wall plates before committing to a slab depth.
The snap in styro panels for pex make for easy install but you may want to use chairs and rebar, etc. instead to raise the pex.
It can be expensive (or more work, if using wood) heating the earth around a building so in addition to insulating under the slab it makes sense to insulate the perimeter. There are variables in how much heat is lost such as soil type but even a radiant basement slab will lose heat up the wall to the outside just like drafting up a chimney. For a slab on grade the recommendation is to use perimeter Styrofoam to frost line depth or a combination of vertical around the slab and then a horizontal layer to get out past frost line depth. This also increases efficiency for non-radiant heated buildings.
All this needs to be planned early in the grading/building process.
How many sf is your stove rated for?Quote:
Originally Posted by BoFuller
I'm curious if I should plan for a smaller stove due to the efficiency og these cabins.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thoner7
You beat me to it Thoner!
. If a wood stove on the first floor of a home can roast you out then wouldn't it be reasonable to heating both floors with a wood stove in the garage?
we're planning a Blaze King princess model for our 35x35 cabin
I'd rather have to open a window or two than wish we'd gone bigger:)
Blaze King Princess - rated for 1200 to 2500 sq ftQuote:
Originally Posted by thoner7
YMMV - I think Blaze King stoves are the best made.
It would heat both floors of a garage easily.
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Exactly. My thoughts to a tee.Quote:
Originally Posted by panderson03
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Ok so you went pretty big.
I just picked up a nice Vermont castings catalytic stove on the side of the road the other day. Rated for 1400 sf. Not sure if it will work for my 40x40. I also got a nice soap Stone stove for free a few years ago when I remodeled a House, that's rated for 1200 sf tho
Has anyone used pex radiant in both the basement floor and main floor??? Is that over kill??? Also in NC........would I really need to radiant heat the basement floor?? I don't believe the frost ever goes deeper than a foot. Just wondering.
With the use of a wood fired boiler or furnace with a water jacket (http://www.atmos.eu/en/combi-boilers...r-heating-oil/) to be used for radiant floor heating and DHW. How many zones and size of the zones can determine the boiler or hot water heater size?And temperature requirements? Water tank is required for these systems? Can antifreeze mix be used so that the system could be shut off?
Has anyone tried to cool a house with the in floor heating system?
My understanding is that it is a bad idea due to condensation. Below air temp liquid running though the floor causes condensation.
Another option: http://www.mb-soft.com/solar/intake.html
I know nothing about it just came across it sometime and saved it
That looks like the earthship system. - Wait, no it doesn't.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pip1972
Zoning is best done "by floor." Sizing is an elaborate calculation based on home's heat loss calculations and environment conditions like heat/cooling degree days. There is no way you'll get an answer on here for what you'll need. Wood fired boilers always have a water jacket/tank. An additional tank and circulator would be required for domestic hot water. Antifreeze can be used, but does add quite a bit to the cost, and actually slightly lowers efficiency, due to lower thermal transfer of the fluid. If you are going to heat potable water, a non-toxic antifreeze should be chosen in case of a heat exchanger failure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Snow
As for cooling, yea, that doesn't work.
Cooling can work. Rehau does it. I learned details at one of their seminars a few years ago. Sorry, I've forgotten most details since then, but remembered the important thing: They do cooling.
Concerns about condensation are valid. Basically, your cooling load must not exceed the threshhold that leads to condensation. In Arizona, your numbers should work great. In Redmond, Washington, probably not. I'd contact Rehau to learn how to run those numbers for your location.