Insulating the Shop

To the experts, How would you insulate the following?

40'x48' Post Frame Building. Steel Siding. Reflective Insulation with White Scrim Finish. 16' interior elevation to bottom of trusses.

As we all know, that 'Reflective Insulation' is really an R-0.5 at best.

We are currently living in our RV inside this building (Our Shop) while we work the land, prep the build site and build our home.

This winter has been a light one from what we've heard and we have been grateful for that as we get things going. That said, the wood stove can only do so much keeping the temp above 40 degrees. Some days I can actually get the temp up to the mid 50's, but every morning it's back down to 40 or less.

The original plan was to spray foam the interior 1"+ and then Fiberglass on top of that. However, I've learned that I would really need 2"+ of spray foam just to keep the condensation under control with the 2 different types of insulation. With the cost of spray foam, I just can't justify spending that much money on 'Our Shop' when I'd rather spend it on the house.

I'm wondering if I can safely use spray foam around all the doors, windows and any exterior penetrations (electrical, plumbing, etc.), and then use Fiberglass (R-15min) on the inside framing. The ceiling getting an R-38. The use of the spray foam being to help seal the building.

I'm not looking to have this in any magazine as an energy efficient shop, just something I can throw some wood in the stove and be comfortable in while using it. I'd like to believe this plan of attack will allow me to do just that but do I need to worry about moisture issues doing it this way? It does have a ridge vent and is open to the shop currently. I would build/put in a ceiling roughly 2' down from the peak so we can keep the truss look. Future plans call for dry walling the complete interior.

FYI, the area around the windows and pictured door is having an enclosed office (with bathroom) built around it that will have a mini split system installed to keep that section comfortable. It will be fully insulated to the shop. I also have two large insulated roll up doors going into the shop.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...tKdTkbCbVsxtuR

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...LzBLgk3lUcVvXa

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...v3jQss3BE5-08B

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...L8L9JZTD4iz0i8

I see no photos.

Why not do a good cheap job using just fiberglass? Most of those gaps that have to be windproofed could probably be done with rattlecan foam.

Sent from my LGL83BL using Tapatalk

I can know see how it wrote things confused what I was trying to say. Rattlecan foam around the windows, doors, corners and exterior penetrations is exactly what I'm hoping to get away with.

Don't know why the photos aren't showing up. They are clickable links on my end but I assumed that's how my PC sees them since I set it up.

Let's try these:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z56r3XkqXctNi1D88

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZUhue3zDrxe9eF9q6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jfkGGeALbodvstpW9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wMr3EeTDSxh5UHSn6

Those links work fine. I wish I had that shop. I'd have it sprayfoamed and be tickled.

Problem I see for fiberglass is the same problem I see for sheetrock. No studs.

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Nice shop. This is my favorite photo, probably because I didn't read anything before I looked at the pictures.

https://imgpond.novarata.net/thumbs/...Goetz shop.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by misplayed-hand

Nice shop. This is my favorite photo, probably because I didn't read anything before I looked at the pictures.

https://imgpond.novarata.net/thumbs/...Goetz shop.jpg

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That's the bathroom. I'm standing in the office portion when I took the picture. Or is it the shop hunter with the laser eyes that caught your attention! :D

Thanks Loghousenut, we are adding studs so we can sheetrock so that isn't going to be a problem. Was just thinking we wanted to spray foam first before doing that but know I'm thinking we don't need to wait and I can just get to it.

I have a CNC plasma table and welders behind the walls in the bathroom picture so leaving the insulation and studs exposed is not an option.

And the truss system has been engineered to hold 110#'s per square foot because of the snow load the area typically gets. (although this winter we weren't even close)

If you're going to drywall anyways, stud it out and fiberglass it. Will be the path of least resistance. And don't hesitate to call a couple local insulation companies and have them quote it for you, a lot of times they can provide the insulation and the labor to install for close to what you'd pay for insulation at Lowe's/home Depot, and you don't have to be the one getting itchy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rckclmbr428

If you're going to drywall anyways, stud it out and fiberglass it. Will be the path of least resistance. And don't hesitate to call a couple local insulation companies and have them quote it for you, a lot of times they can provide the insulation and the labor to install for close to what you'd pay for insulation at Lowe's/home Depot, and you don't have to be the one getting itchy

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Thanks Ron,

I actually have a guy showing up tomorrow to give me a price on doing some of the work. Figured for what we had budgeted for the spray foam, I can probably get someone to do the other and I won't have to lift a hammer.

I'll have to see if I have any insulation contractors close enough to me. Our biggest issue with contractors is the distance. Fortunately, the ones near us all seem to rely on reputation and fair pricing to keep them alive. We've already seen how once someone is treated unfairly, the community basically puts them out of business.

How is the shop coming Chuck?

The Shop Hunter looks awesome.

Pitstop

Sorry I haven't updated this in a while but life keeps you busy!

Had the ceiling done in metal siding with R-38 blown in on top of it. That was a tremendous help help in keeping things cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Still haven't done the walls but that is changing in another couple of months as we are doing it as a winter project.

Also adding a new wood stove that should be more efficient than what we currently have.