PermaChink chinking

[Francis]

On a camp 30'x30' (estimation) how much 5 gal you can use to chink it?

Some one use it?

(if not, what you use, and how much you estimate the price to chink a 30'x30' house?)




Thanks all for your answer!

Have a nice day!

[Timber]

http://www.bearfortlodge.com/bearfort_lodge/category/log-home-chinking/

http://www.bearfortlodge.com/ he took the lhba course
the most important questions cannot (might not even be asked) be learned except in class!

[Timberwolf]

On a camp 30'x30' (estimation) how much 5 gal you can use to chink it?

Some one use it?

(if not, what you use, and how much you estimate the price to chink a 30'x30' house?)




Thanks all for your answer!

Have a nice day!


Francis,

Waaaaaay more than your budget would allow. You've seen the pictures of my house? Cost to use Permachink... about 15-20 thousand dollars.

[Francis]

Its possible to know what you use and how much it cost for you beautiful house?

Thanks

[John17three]

Its possible to know what you use and how much it cost for you beautiful house?

Thanks

You can snoop around this side a bit, and you'll probably find more information about it. I think I remember a member saying they use mortar, like what you might use for blocks or bricks. That's just from memory; please don't go buy a some mortar until you take the class. : -)

[Francis]

Thank you, this is really appreciate...

Some one can confirm that mortar is a good way to chink log home?

I know (like always...) i have to take the course...

Please share your knowledge!

[Scoutman]

I'll share some knowledge with you Francis. It's been invaluable to me!! http://community.loghomebuilders.org/search.php

[panderson03]

You can snoop around this side a bit, and you'll probably find more information about it. I think I remember a member saying they use mortar, like what you might use for blocks or bricks. That's just from memory; please don't go buy a some mortar until you take the class. : -)

Hey John17three, when are YOU taking the class? seems as though you'd be a great member:)

[John17three]

Hey John17three, when are YOU taking the class? seems as though you'd be a great member:)

I have a feeling that was just mere flattery! : -)

But still a good question. I'm probably taking the November class in Vegas. I've got a Missouri Walnut Council meeting to attend the weekend before, so its going to a be a full November.

I'm a little bit more encouraged to sign up after my deer scouting trip on my grandparents property (likely to inherit). Seems that we've got some straight oaks here and there that I might be able to use for logs. But yeah, hopefully soon. I'd hate to be the first guy in the association to make a loghome out of oak timber, but it'd be convenient for sure. I'll know more after this weekend, as my father-n-law is visiting. I likely sign him up, too!

[blane]

Oak would be gorgeous, and for sure not many houses would would be build out of that. You might consider selling the oak and have enough $$$$ to build your house and have $$$$ left over for missions.
I have a feeling that was just mere flattery! : -)

But still a good question. I'm probably taking the November class in Vegas. I've got a Missouri Walnut Council meeting to attend the weekend before, so its going to a be a full November.

I'm a little bit more encouraged to sign up after my deer scouting trip on my grandparents property (likely to inherit). Seems that we've got some straight oaks here and there that I might be able to use for logs. But yeah, hopefully soon. I'd hate to be the first guy in the association to make a loghome out of oak timber, but it'd be convenient for sure. I'll know more after this weekend, as my father-n-law is visiting. I likely sign him up, too!

[John17three]

Oak would be gorgeous, and for sure not many houses would would be build out of that. You might consider selling the oak and have enough $$$$ to build your house and have $$$$ left over for missions.

Good point, Blane. Never thought of it like that. I think the logs are suited for building a log home right now, but it would be quite a few years before they are ready for logging. Loggers prefer certain dimensions for logging for veneer, staves, or otherwise.

[Timber]

I think oak would test you on pounding rebar....They don't call it hardwood for nothing!
If you can get Lodgepole Pine ... it is deemed to be the very best for houselogs

[jrdavis]

Hey John3:17

I'd hate for you to be the first one to build with oak also.....

So if you'll supply them, I'll come right down and bring a truckload home to Iowa and then you can see if you WANT to build with them :)

JD

[blane]

Timber raises a good point. Don't know how succesful you would be pounding rebar through that stuff, but it would be pretty. Use what you got.

[John17three]

Yeah, I prefer the look of the various pines. I'd reluctantly use oak from our property. I just think the light-colored yellow/whit look against a forest green roof looks way cool. And if you're from the Ozarks (as I am), that look is rare. Some try to achieve it with wooden siding and green roof, but it couldn't look like a log home.

[John17three]

Hey John3:17

I'd hate for you to be the first one to build with oak also.....

So if you'll supply them, I'll come right down and bring a truckload home to Iowa and then you can see if you WANT to build with them :)

JD



It's probably better if you don't come looking on our place for timber. Granny might run ya off with her fly swatter. If my hiney serves me correctly, her swing with that thing has quite a bite against a bare bottom. You'll probably fare better waiting to Dec 2011 for a cheap cutting nearby. :)

[greenthumb]

John, just out of curiosity what species of oak? It's hard to find any quantity of oaks that would be straight and large enough to build with in my area, but I think it would make for a great house!

As for the hardness of the trees, lodgepole pine has a janka hardness of 480, white oak 1360, and a species of eucalyptus that a member built with is 2023. I think it would be harder than pine to pin, but not impossibly so. I don't think the house would be going anywhere.

[John17three]

John, just out of curiosity what species of oak? It's hard to find any quantity of oaks that would be straight and large enough to build with in my area, but I think it would make for a great house!

As for the hardness of the trees, lodgepole pine has a janka hardness of 480, white oak 1360, and a species of eucalyptus that a member built with is 2023. I think it would be harder than pine to pin, but not impossibly so. I don't think the house would be going anywhere.

Wow! I didn't realize hardwoods were so hard compared to the pines, and especially eucalyptos! I'd like to see that guys biceps after he finished that house. I'll have take do another look. Those may have been a mix of walnut, hickory and oak. I do remember my grandpa using the phrase "post oak," so I'm not sure if maybe we've got some of that variety.

I've done a little research of my own since you mentioned "logdepole pine." I'll make a new thread from that, as I'm pretty sure we're chasing this rabbit a little far from chinking topic.

[Timber]

LOGS
When choosing the species of log which will give you optimum results, two factors are critical to keep in mind - checking - which are the longitudinal splits that occur during drying and how deeply the species will take a finish such as a protective stain or oil. Checking, if crossing joinery, will allow air and weather leaks and also insects to pass from outside to inside. Excessive checking will extend beyond the penetration of a protective stain or oil and likely allow moisture from driven weather to accumulate and cause wood deterioration. Uncontrolled checking tends to localize in the Cove or Cope style of full-scribe joinery, allowing for pronounced visual gaps and leaks. For the reasons of checking and resulting leaks, I would never consider using checked dead standing timber in a log home. Logs which are already randomly riddled with uncontrolled checks would be almost 100% guaranteed to create a drafty, insect infiltrated home unless every single check is caulked or chinked, something that, from experience, I have seen is virtually impossible to do. It is my firm opinion, that if chinking or caulking is required it is an absolute and unacceptable failure of the joinery and/or log selection.


The depth of penetration and thereby adhesion of a protective finish is really the most important factor in choosing a species of tree by the degree of maintenance it will require in the years to come. If one considers that a power or telephone pole is subjected to the harshest factors a log in a log home could ever be exposed to, then only Pine and Cedar excel as proper choices for log wall construction. To date, Spruce has never been considered for pole uses because of its lack of ability to absorb treatment, as well Fir and Larch have a very limited use due to the minimal treatment penetration and excessive twisting and warping characteristics in dryer climates.

When you consider checking or the long term maintenance of a log home to use Fir, Larch or Spruce in log wall construction is, in my opinion, a poor choice or lacking experience on behalf of the log builder. However, to use the structural characteristics of Fir, Larch or Spruce under the immediate protection of a roof or within the enclosure of a home as a beam or a joist, has a definite amount of good merit. To achieve the optimum results in a log home, without a doubt, only Pine or Cedar should be used as a wall log. Choosing between Pine or Cedar is one of preference. Cedar as a log lives up to its reputation as having heartwood capable of sustained exposure to weather with the minimum of detrimental effects. The size and hues in Cedar allow us to achieve the "Classic Lodge" stature and feel. The low initial moisture content and stable nature have long been known as a significant advantage to using Cedar. Perhaps the only downside would be the softness of the wood and its ability to be more easily marked by handling.

With Lodgepole Pine we can accentuate the numerous unique characteristics found in individual trees. With a transparent, protective stain, few woods have the luster and beauty that is so engrained as in the Lodgepole Pine. A significant advantage Lodgepole Pine has over all other Pines, Fir, Larch and the Spruces is that these other species are between twenty and eighty-five percent more susceptible to checking. In fact, few woods are more easily controlled against checking or can absorb a transparent protective stain as deeply. The way Lodgepole Pine shrinks is what makes it so incredibly ideal for log wall use. The drier the climate the more significant this benefit becomes. It is the tangential to radial shrinkage ratio (or the way it shrinks in circumference compared to the way it shrinks in diameter) that is so extremely important, that relationship allows for the most controllable checking of any soft wood species used in log construction today. (Remember this does not apply to dead standing or pre-dried Lodgepole Pine logs.) That ratio defines a species susceptibility to most forms of warp and of course checking during the course of seasoning. Simply put in drier climates, species prone to excessive checking such as Eastern White Pine, Fir, Larch or the Spruces when used as wall logs would not be able to be warranted with our air and weather tight guarantee!

For further great information on this topic check out R. Bruce Hoadley's "Understanding Wood, A Craftsman's Guide to Wood Technology" considered by many experts to be the best written material for the lay person.

[edkemper]

Being that CA is an Oak kind of state, I'm wondering about Oak for our homes. I don't think I've ever seen long straight Oak logs. But perhaps I'm missing something. Oak is beautiful but not sure it's an option for walls.

As for eucalyptus, it is said if you are using it for firewood, you have to cut it up in pieces as soon as you cut it down. Give it a couple weeks on the ground and you will go through a couple of chains on each log. They turn into concrete.

[mbailey]

I drive very near the Permachink headquarters in Knoxville, TN almost every day, but I will be using mortar just as the class taught. It is inexpensive and works very well.