@ loghousenut or others who have - HF mill question

[LogLover]

I saw you had some pics of the Green Monster somewhere and will assume it to be the HF mill based on pics and "color"
Have you had much of an opportunity to use it and thoughts on it??!!

I have one locally available, never used, estate sale find. They want $1500 so it is priced right vs retail asking price. Guess cheap means nothing if something is no good tho so would like to get some feedback before I'd make a move to get it.
My experience with HF has been hit-miss. If it's good it's great value but if it's not look out. lol
Thanks for feedback

[jrdavis]

I JUST tightened the last nut/bolt and washer on mine.
I have the 9HP engine. On tuesday evening, I Put gas and oil in it and fired up the motor.
I need to level it and then I have a few test logs to "run thru the mill" (that sounds SOOOO kewl)
and then I have some 30 inch elm and 20 inch walnut to try out......

More to follow.
JD
I ordered mine "with the 2 year warranty" and when it came there was an addendum changing it to only 90 days :(
with the 20% off coupon + shipping it was $1801.00, so new/never used, should be ok. I'd offer them less (2-300) and see if they bite.

[LogLover]

JD - this thing actually has an extended 2 year warranty they paid for. It was purchased this spring - wonder if the 2 years is after the initial 1 year or combined? The print was small enough that my eyes were watering...bad vision is the truth.
I never noticed the avitar before...or I woulda directed at you too.
Definitley let me know what your thoughts are - they don't start the sale until next week and will not sell out from under me I was promised so I have a bit of time yet.
If I can get some reasonable use from it - maybe a re-sell thing when done and sure cheaper than a mizer by a mile.

[loghousenut]

I keep thinking JD is gonna start the HF mill thread but he's kinda slow. I have run a bunch of sawdust and dulled 5 or 6 blades so I suppose I am forming an opinion.

I have the 6.5 hp engine and it does fine but, like every other he-man toy, it could use more power. It seems to cut my pine and Doug fir fine but I think it'd be slow on oak or walnut. It is not unpleasantly slow like running an Alaska Chainsaw Mill but it is not quick like a 40 hp Woodmizer. It's almost fun. While in the middle of a 15" wide cut it seems like you are going slow but then all of a sudden you are done and pulling off a 2x15 chunk of lumber that would cost real money if you could buy it at the lumber yard.

I used a pile of those 2x15x5' boards for several sets of shelves that will also serve as practice lumber for stains and finishes. My Boy milled up a bunch of 1x9's with the wane edge left on and put together a little woodshed that looks kinda cool. It uses very little fuel so it feels like free lumber but there is the price of the mill, the modifications to the mill, the telehandler, and telehandler fuel to consider. With more room for maneuvering we could do it without the telehandler but that would turn it into work.

We made a new 20' track that will mill a little over 16' log. We also made a mod or two to the mill itself and I am considering remaking the carriage to make it less wobbly.This mill comes with one blade that is roughly the same quality steel as plumbers tape. I spent $300 on 15 Woodmizer blades and they are perfect. Woodmizer will sharpen them for a reasonable fee. Take everything I say as though it was coming from the lips of a rank amateur miller who is really cheap and likes to work on stuff and design things that may or may not work.

Now for my advice:

If I were milling dimensional lumber I would NOT get this mill but would look at one of the circular mills. This is the slow stupid way to mill 2x6's.

On the other hand if I were milling 1x12 wane edge (the edge of the log left on) siding and 3x20 beams for massive furniture and countertops, Id get a bandsaw mill. While I am glad that I bought the HF mill, I will NOT recommend it to my Brothers/Sisters here at LHBA. It is a small investment and a bargain but, unless you want to improve the living daylights out of it, I don't think you'll love it like I do. I come from the vantage point of a fellow who was actively considering making my own bandsaw mill out of raw iron and a set of trailer hubs. I am SSSooooooooo glad that I'm not halfway through that project and am milling lumber instead. I'd say that if you are not the kind of person who can weld up you own 5' long drill bits, your not going to like this mill in its unrefined state. There are a lot of $4,000-$9,000 options out there in bandsaw and circular saws. I am into this rascal about $2,500 so far including extra blades ,etc. so it is still a bargain and it is all new. It starts every time and nothing has acted like it will fall apart.

Now I want to see what JD has to say about things.




http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Sawmill9-2011008.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Sawmill9-2011002.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Sawmill9-2011003.jpg

[LogLover]

Okay --- can't get much more thorough than that of a review unless ya pay for it! Thanks very much

I also have been eyeing the telehandler you have and doing some online searching - what a crazy all over the place range in prices for what I, dangerously I suspect, think are similar units. While I love love love toys my guess is this will be a use and sell proposition for me. Any rec's here? A general thought on what one should pay for one?
Once again I find myself saying thank ye my good man. :)

[jrdavis]

So many auctions.... so little time....
I got more brands in the fire than Conagra foods.
The mill looks REALLY kewl in my back yard, though. I was dreading "the talk" from my father-in-law, but when he pulled up in the yard and asked my wife "what is that thing" and she said a sawmill, he came down and told me about a guy who started cutting his own lumber and had to quit his job because he got so much business.....blah blah.....
I was so shocked because HIS g-kids still live at home (well 3 of them anyway)....
MORE to come....
I'll try to "pick it up there....LHN.

JD

[loghousenut]

Okay --- can't get much more thorough than that of a review unless ya pay for it! Thanks very much

I also have been eyeing the telehandler you have and doing some online searching - what a crazy all over the place range in prices for what I, dangerously I suspect, think are similar units. While I love love love toys my guess is this will be a use and sell proposition for me. Any rec's here? A general thought on what one should pay for one?
Once again I find myself saying thank ye my good man. :)


When we finally get you over to the "members only" side of the forum you'll spend weeks sifting through talk about telehandlers, boom trucks, sawmills, cranes, lifting poles and all of the other ways to make your life simpler and more complicated. A good basic knowledge is gained in class and then we'll fine tune your brain from there.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Sawmill8-2011016.jpg

[LogLover]

well - if they ever do a class outside that Vegas one I will be there first in line......until then it's this board on this side only. Not a soul in my family could be coerced into going there so that will remain that forever...
hint hint hint LHBA .... and I have read I am not alone. ;-)

[edkemper]

Loglover,

Every class is filled to the limit. Vegas is far easier for the instructors and most attendees. Isn't it interesting that a class on how to become debt free could be held in such a financially distractive place? The sooner you change your mind, the sooner you learn how to do what we do.

We took the class outside Seattle. The cost of getting there and staying there was expensive. I personally wish the class had been offered in Vegas when we took it as the cost to get there and the cost to stay would have been far cheaper.

Hope you join us in the near future.

[blane]

I had a lucas mill that I used to cut my timbers and although it was not the best option for timbers it was perfect for dimensional lumber. It was a circular saw with a 14hp motor. Here is a video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qI6n_CME_M&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
The head is pushed through the log and rides on tracks. This machine will give you consistent production on 2x boards. But because the circular blade only cuts 8" you have to turn the head after every cut for 4x12 timbers. The advantage on this machine is you never turn the log. The tracks adjust up down side to side. And you can add as many extensions as you need. We were able to cut 26' logs.

[jrdavis]

Hey Blane ---
Don't be trying to "turn" him..... LOL
LHN and I are starting our OWN exclusive club for HF sawmill users. :)

BTW -- I like the Lucas....
right tool for the right job.
JD

[blane]

I would really love to start the wood mizer lt70 club. That thing is awesome! Maybe I can afford one on my next build. I think it would be the right tool for any milling job. I think it has a 60hp diesel and is fully automated.

The Lucas has its limits, but for the price and ease of set up its not bad for standard milling.

[edkemper]

Blane,

Just looked this rig up. LT70HDE25-H Base Price $43,895.00

Ouch! But very cool. Perhaps if you had a lot of trees this could be worth the price if you can create a market for custom wood.

[jrdavis]

yes, THAT would be a sweet RIG!!!!!
even *I* would give up the HF blog for that :)

Well, I have made my first cuts with the HF Mill tonight.
I used a 3 year old 6 foot piece of cottonwood. It cut it like a hot knife thru butter.
I just love the smell of fresh cut wood.
I didn't have the saw quite level and THAT makes a B_I_G difference. You get a variable width board and then its hard to get it out.
but I cut it without incident.
Then I switched to the 1/2 cut walnut piece that my son had started to cut with the alaska mill.
I cut 3 passes on a 10 inch log when the blade came off (not broke -- that was my first thought). It seems that I missed a bolt that needed tightened better :(
I gut it put back on and adjusted and cut 3 more passes. no problems.

The pieces are pretty smooth... in fact when I said that we'd need to sand them before putting them up..... she said WHY!!!! (this from the drywall perfectionist with a 750W spot light looking for bubbles and pits!!!!!)
so , yeah, its pretty smooth cuts, and thats with the HF cheaper blade.
I'll try to get some pics out there.

JD

[jrdavis]

Here's three pics of lumber and my NEW Avatar....
its actually of ME. :) instead of the HF guy.

well.... i was going to add pics... but it says my quota is full.
can't attach, delete or add....Hummm

Admins? any Ideas?
Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

JD

[Mosseyme]

jrdavis;


We have a Norwood Lumbermate 2000. Have loved it from the first cut. The only downside is the turning the logs. It has rollers and a winch attachment that help a lot on the really big ones. We have enough track to do 23' may add another 4' to do our rafters.

Secret is to keep a level track and carriage, sharp blade on it, keep the dirt off the logs, keep good tension on the blade, good lubricant. You just use dish soap, and I add chlorine to the water to help cut the mold from damp boards. Truly if you try to save blades by running them to long you will cost yourself money when the blades brake.

Another thing, it means an extra turn but I usually cut one side then turn it over to cut the oppisite side, that way you for sure have 2 sides flat with each other. You get a better squarer cant with 2 flat sides to clamp down for the squaring.Then I stand it up to finish squareing up the cant, it just works better for me that way since I am often doing the turning by myself and I get the sides squared with each other better. Also if you cut a good square timber 4x6 8' long to throw on the track to roll your log up against and then to clamp your cants up against it can help keep from having to move the log dogs up and down so much.
Good luck and have fun.

Blane;

For many years there was a Lucus mill on the road going to my mothers house the other side of Clyde from you. Stopped to take a look one day. Not having to move or turn the log would be a real plus I think. That mill is gone now, did you get that one by chance?

[jrdavis]

Mosseyme....
Good advice.

I had a couple of questions that I'm sure you've answered in your post already.
Last night I was trying to cut some walnut and the blade kept cutting down instead of straight across.
Like this ------\_____/-------- Not a good picture, but the best a keyboard will allow.
I’m figuring the blade is dull. It was the ‘gimme blade’ from HF and its made 40+ cuts.
I can “hear’ the motor laboring too at times and find that its better if I Peel the logs (can I say I’m SOOO looking forward to peeling 40 foot logs).
Turning the logs is definitely fun. I’m trying to man-handle them, but that’s easier with a 10 ft log. It will never happen with a 40 footer.
I noticed that I was not level last night and that was causing a binding in the blade also... goodness – its time for some concrete pads, I think. Also the carriage (as you mentioned) is pretty LAME on the HF machine. I’m going to have to weld another brace on it to keep it square.
LoghouseNut – do any of these things sound familiar?
Thanks for the tip on the 2 flat sides. I think that is a GOOD plan.
I have noticed every once in a while the log with start to ‘buck’ as I’m cutting it too. Is that the blade binding or not level or am I doing something ELSE wrong. :(

Thanks.
JD

[loghousenut]

I got there first so I'll but in and let Mrs. Me confirm or deny,

Toss the blade. It was dull after your first slice through balsa wood. Once you have a sharp blade, if it does not cut straight it is time to play with your tension.

Turning logs can be a chore. If you are loading them by hand you oughta be able to turn them by hand but it might make the long logs a two man operation. I have used the telehandler for loading and have had to use it only once for turning a log. You won't be turning or loading many 40 ft logs on your HF mill.

Dirt in the bark will dull a blade. If you can have the dirt end up on the side where the blade exits it is less of an issue. If your logs are laying around for a few months they may or may not peel in large easy chunks. I have a friend who washed his sawlogs with a firehose.

Concrete foundation will stabilize things a lot but you already have the ability to mill some 4' long 12x12's timbers to make a pretty good wood foundation for your track. It has worked on RR tracks for 200 years.

The log bucking issue will lessen with a new blade, solid foundation, and also it can depend on how tightly the log is held onto the track. You have probably noticed that it bucks less after the first rotation when the log is sitting flat on the track. Also, our HF carriage can be kinda wobbly as you mentioned. You'll like the Woodmizer blades. Get a bunch of them.



That's my thought anyway.

[jrdavis]

Got it.
I've had 15 NEW woodmizer baldes just sitting by the front door, BEGGING me every time I walk by to "Please take me.... take me". so NOW I get to choose one.
Huh!!! RR ties. Ida never thought of that on my own :))
The cottonwood was 3 year s old peeled by moving it.
The elm was 60 days old and peeled fairly easy, but some pieces stuck.
The walnut was cut in Jan/Feb 2001 and was pretty unfriendly, but came off with some not-so-gentle 'persuasion' from a spud.
Great -- I now have a new toy AND get to use it!!!!
Thx LHN and Mrs. Me

[loghousenut]

Be kinda careful as you unload one of those new blades from the bundle. I was all alone and getting one of them out one day just after cocktail time. I had the new one out and realized that I also had the old dull blade under my control at the same time. Somehow as I was hanging up the old one and controlling the new blade, the 8 or 9 blades that I was controlling with a sandaled foot (why would I go for a new blade dressed in gym shorts and a T shirt if I weren't also in sandals) decided to come out of their bundle. I had just enough control over the rascals with my foot to be able to stop and think things through and just enough presence of mind to know that if I let go with my foot that all those teeth on all those blades were gonna be on me like ugly on Joan Rivers (post face lift).

I was finally able to finagle the little iron clip (you have to use Woodmizer blades to know about the clip) connected back on but never was able to get all those blades back like Woodmizer wanted them to be. Before exhaustion or starvation claimed me I made the decision to bound like a 300 lb gazelle in the direction that I thought the fewest blades would spring as they unsprung.

Upon gracefully landing I found that the pile of blades were still bundled just on the verge of springing apart. One of these days Jake and I will dress in long pants and boots with gloves and go straighten out those blades.

Be careful and be sober. You'll love the new blades.

[Mosseyme]

I'll not argue the point about the woodmizer blades as I have never tried them and I wouldn't dare argue with LHN! He has probably been milling for a long time. Before my days began on LHBA I spent a lot of time on Norwoods sawyer blog. From that blog I was advised by many to try Cook's supersharps I think they are called from Cook's sawmill supplies. Every sawmill has different types of set to the blades, you need to get the right blade with the right set for your brand of sawmill. With Cook you can send them your mill make and model and they will set the blade for that. We got a box of them and like them much better than the Norwood blades. Woodmizer may very well do the same thing I was just going with advise from long time sawyers. As LHN said make sure you follow instructions on how to open those blades. Good heavy leather gloves long pants boots ect. and turn the sharp side away from you There is a trick to opening the blades and to rolling them back up. I don't try to do the opening of the blades I leave that to Gary I'm much to clumsey, would have an arm cut off or something.

I haven't totally figured out the blade pulling down, sometimes it is dullness, hard knots, tension to loose, blade not level, carriage not level, I would take an 8' log and just pick it apart in very thin pieces and watch what it does. keep a level and a square close to check those Make sure to square up the blade with the log bunk. also if there is a lot of taper to your logs, jack up the small end half the difference, it will help keep the cut going straight with the grain. We have jacks on each end of ours but if not you could just put a piece of 1x or 2x under the small end. About the tension, the blade stretches with use and you have to keep going up with the tension to keep it tight. I don't know if you have done in milling before or not but if you don't have a peevee and cant hook they are essential for moving logs on the mill.

I hope I was clear about the flat sides of the cant, opposing sides are how I do it to keep from having angles like # . You could go to the Norwood sawmill site and look for the blog and see if it is still active. Lots of good advise to be found there.

We built a ramp from the ground level to the log bunk level, just used 10x10s cut on the mill, did a long bevel on the ground end and keep the other end far enough away from you rails so your carriage doesn't chatch on it. space them so you can drive a truck or tractor between to push really big logs up the ramp. You can roll a long big log up a ramp with peevees. We have rolled 20" 20 footers up the ramp.

[jrdavis]

MeMe --
I'll look for those blogs.
I've tried to read alot from the woodweb site also.
I have had the blade "come off" twice now and thats an expeirience..... there is a lot of play in those blades.
I'm guessing from what you've BOTH sadi that I need to check and recheck a few things.
the one that pops out is new blade and raise up the small end. I have been "cutting down" by starting from the big end and cutting towards the small end and it DOES seem to try to follow the grain. so I'll just force it to cut across it.
The funny thing is that It didn't do this when cutting my 4-5 inch slabs of Elm... but the walnut doesn't want to participate -- whether 5 handle turns (1 1/4") or 9 turns (2 1/4") cuts.

I have some steel that I've been rolling the sections up on and using a peavey to help (it just tears the elm bark off), but sometimes I just grab the log and wrestle it up (you should see my arms -- looks like a cat fight that I lost) :rolleyes:

-- BTW: Do you all wehar the ear protetion? I havn'et noticed it being too loud, but all the pics I see people are wearing them.
Maybe I'm just used to loud LOUD noises from Iraq. :)

LHN -- you crack me UP on that WM Clip and blade attack. Almost sounds like a LIVE WEB CAM is in order for Your place. (anyone close to go put one up? Heheh.)
--got the gloves, boots and LONG PANTS -- besides, I don't like all that sawdust on me.

JD

[loghousenut]

WEAR EAR PROTECTION.... Did you hear that, I said WEAR EAR PROTECTION.... There are times and places in our lives where staying alive and saving the Country are more important than our fingers, toes, and ears. You are building a log home for your family now and it's time to stop thinking about living until tomorrow and start planning for tomorrow instead.

I am 58 years old and have lost the better part of my hearing by doing the things that guys do when they are younger than 58. I am now smart enough to wear my hearing protection when running the lawnmower, cutoff saw, limber mill, chainsaw, etc., etc., etc.

SAVE WHATEVER HEARING YOU HAVE LEFT FOR YOUR OLD AGE. Did you hear that? Just because you don't have Grandchildren yet is no reason to think that you won't want to hear them giggle some day!


PS... Yes the mill is too loud.

[Mosseyme]

jrdavis

Yes you should wear the ear protection, as LHN said save it you'll wish you had if you don't. As a person who lost 50% of her hearing at the ripe old age of 2, I can vouch for the wish you could save it. That being said, a lot of times I forget. If I had my hearing aids in I wouldn't forget! LOL .

On the milling thing. I'm not sure what kind of locking system you have on your mill to hold the logs in place. It sounds like they might not be held tight enough, or maybe I'm just not folowing. We have log post that turn up when in use or lay horizontal out of the way when not needed. I use them only when loading the log onto the bunks to keep it from rolling off the back, and when the log is to big to lay on the bunk along with my 4x6 beam. The log dogs have screw in locks to hold the front side of the log tight. Once the round slabs are off we have a clamp that holds the cant in place so you don't have to keep moving the dogs down.

Sounds like you are getting it figured out. Make sure you put stickers between your boards to help reduce the mold buildup. Helps to sweep them good befor stacking as well. Might not be a big deal in some areas but here in the beautiful wet Smoky mountains it is essential. If you continue to have a lot of problem with the boards being wavy you might want to leave them a 1/8th or 1/4 oversize to plane off later.

BTW walnut is a tough one sycamore is another tough one. Burned up a 48" round blade on the old sawmill on those.

[jrdavis]

I hear ya... hahahaha

okay. I even bought a pair of ear protection.... just haven't gotten them out and on.

tonight, I leveled again, retightened the log, and changed the blade (that was fun) and that new woodmizer started BITING IN and cut me a straight line.
SO.....lessons learned.
level
level
tight blade
sharp blade
tighten log
a little slower.

oh and LHN -- My daughter gave birth to my Second g-son right after I returned from Iraq....
so at 48, I'm a double g-pa.
hard to believe.
Thanks for caring.

[BoFuller]

WEAR EAR PROTECTION.... Did you hear that, I said WEAR EAR PROTECTION.... There are times and places in our lives where staying alive and saving the Country are more important than our fingers, toes, and ears. You are building a log home for your family now and it's time to stop thinking about living until tomorrow and start planning for tomorrow instead.

I am 58 years old and have lost the better part of my hearing by doing the things that guys do when they are younger than 58. I am now smart enough to wear my hearing protection when running the lawnmower, cutoff saw, limber mill, chainsaw, etc., etc., etc.

SAVE WHATEVER HEARING YOU HAVE LEFT FOR YOUR OLD AGE. Did you hear that? Just because you don't have Grandchildren yet is no reason to think that you won't want to hear them giggle some day!

Ditto that! I have at least 3 sets of ear protectors plus bags of those little plug in kind. For chainsawing, shooting, grading, whatever. Too much loud music in the 60's. At 62, I have 5 grandkids that I love to hear. Of course sometimes it's convenient to have selective hearing with the boss at home. ;)

[LogLover]

I took the HF plunge yesterday --- they took $1290. I will do the tweaking you guys have tossed out there and try some trial runs on soft woods with the WM blades I'll be ordering. May take some time to do all the tweaking and setups you all say are needed. I figure even though I'm not doing a build it's only got warranty for so long so may have at it while I have it.
I hope the day comes when I can enter the realm of the "other side" in the not to distant future. It won't ever be Vegas where I grab the class but maybe next year will bring another option.
I'm tempted to grab a class from Lasky or similar in the interim as I don't want the enthusiasm we have to wane .... guess other than the cost it may have some usefull info I can gather from it. I may get lucky and by the time that happens LHBA may be doing class elsewhere too.
Thanks for the feedback - great forum

[jrdavis]

LogLover ---
I dont' think that you will be disappointed, for what you've got into it.
congrats. -- Make the tweeks and then tell US what you're gonna do. :)

LHN -- Did you keep the rail from HF and add your own lengths (from pics below??) or did you totally redo them?
I was looking at other saws and see that they have a Upside-down "U" shape stablizers instead of the "T"s that the HF mill has, I think that would help make the mill better -- I just don't have the welding equipment to do all that right now.
Mrs ME ---
When you say "Make sure to square up the blade with the log bunk." do you mean to make sure the blade is level with the "Bed" on both sides?

Thanks all,

James

[blane]

What did you say?:)
WEAR EAR PROTECTION.... Did you hear that, I said WEAR EAR PROTECTION.... There are times and places in our lives where staying alive and saving the Country are more important than our fingers, toes, and ears. You are building a log home for your family now and it's time to stop thinking about living until tomorrow and start planning for tomorrow instead.

I am 58 years old and have lost the better part of my hearing by doing the things that guys do when they are younger than 58. I am now smart enough to wear my hearing protection when running the lawnmower, cutoff saw, limber mill, chainsaw, etc., etc., etc.

SAVE WHATEVER HEARING YOU HAVE LEFT FOR YOUR OLD AGE. Did you hear that? Just because you don't have Grandchildren yet is no reason to think that you won't want to hear them giggle some day!


PS... Yes the mill is too loud.

[loghousenut]

LogLover ---
I dont' think that you will be disappointed, for what you've got into it.
congrats. -- Make the tweeks and then tell US what you're gonna do. :)

LHN -- Did you keep the rail from HF and add your own lengths (from pics below??) or did you totally redo them?
I was looking at other saws and see that they have a Upside-down "U" shape stablizers instead of the "T"s that the HF mill has, I think that would help make the mill better -- I just don't have the welding equipment to do all that right now.
Mrs ME ---
When you say "Make sure to square up the blade with the log bunk." do you mean to make sure the blade is level with the "Bed" on both sides?

Thanks all,

James

James, I kept my old track thinking that if I need to mill anything longer than the new track will handle, I could scab 6' or 12' of the HF track onto one end. Don't think it'll ever happen.

Don't know for sure what "stabilizers" you are talking about. My track is made of two "L" shaped tracks and several crosspieces made of rectangular tubing.

As for welding gear, get to collecting! I just bought a great old welder for $40 on Craigslist. Another $40 will buy a HF auto darkening hood. Then $40 for a chop saw and you're ready for electricity and rod. I can't imagine another hobby where $120 will let you do so much with so little.

[jrdavis]

LHN.
Huh? sorry, I haven't been using my ear-muffs, so I didn't catch what you're saying....

Right. $120 hobby. I got the goggles and hand mask -- how do the auto-dark hoods work for you? I hadn't heard anything good from them.
I have a small up to 5/32" welder, so I can do soem things (welded #5 rebar to the HF Brick layers wedge) rebar-spud, motorcycle kickstarter, etc.
I've been tihinkinnga bout weldint he 2 sections of track from HF so there's no "bend' in there.
Then I have 4new/used 8-9 foot sections of 1/4" steel to make it about 25-27ft of section.

Here is a pic of what I can the stablizer -- if it doens't come thru-- its the rollers to the upright (creating a "T").
JD
331
its like this now _|__ and I'd like _[_]__ I think it would reduce the "wobble" that I get.

[BoFuller]

As for welding gear, get to collecting! I just bought a great old welder for $40 on Craigslist. Another $40 will buy a HF auto darkening hood. Then $40 for a chop saw and you're ready for electricity and rod. I can't imagine another hobby where $120 will let you do so much with so little.

Dang, one more thing to add to the list. :)

[LogLover]

heck - one more thing to learn:(
I been looking at the youtube vids and it seems MIG welding can be learned fairly quickly, or at least somewhat learned - or is that hogwash?
Pretty apparent it's another thing that one can make use of forever so I have no issue in the expense but wondering about the learning part of it.

[loghousenut]

Hey JD,

Why in the world would you call that piece ( sawmill_leg.jpg ) a stabilizer? It seems to me to be the most unstable design this side of Charlie Sheen! I was thinking of welding a big ole box of steel tubing going straight up from each rear wheel and welding or bolting to the very top of the carriage uprights. In the real world I don't know whether it hurts anything to have the carriage wobble around like it does, probably makes no difference, but it sometimes bugs me.

Ten minutes later...
As I sit here and think about it, I am convincing myself that the wobble doesn't matter. The blade height does not change vertically and the rascal cuts smooth. Why mess with perfection. I think I'll let you solve the wobble problem and I'll follow your lead.

About the auto darkening welding hood, it is the only way to go. I'm sure there are better ones out there but I love the one I got from HF for $35. Had it 2 or more years now and it has never failed me except when I try to weld in the dark. I'm a shade tree welder and my workspace lighting is controlled by a higher power. When He lets the Sun set my HF hood goes on strike and I have to get out my old hood.

Loglover,

Youtube is telling you the truth about MIG welding. Anyone can do it and it is easy to get a pretty weld. I love them to death. I'm cheap and stick welding is cheap too. I have a Son who can make a pretty weld with my stick welder when beauty is needed. A good stick welder can be had cheaper that you can take your inlaws out for dinner. A good MIG machine can be a different story and it can be hard to justify the cost to your inlaw's Daughter.

If the expense really isn't the issue then MIG is GREAT. There are limitations to what the 110v machines can do and that has to be considered. If you are considering a name brand 220v machine I say whip the horses and get to town with the cash before the Boss changes her mind. Grab a set of cutting torches while you're at it.

[Log Doc]

Log Lover, I went to the last Vegas class. You are absolutely right. The room was $350 for 2 nights and the experience of Vegas was much worse than I saw 10 to 15 years ago when I was there for a different seminar. I just went to the class, got something to eat and went to my room to try to get away from it all. I was so glad my wife didn't come, She would have hated it and I would have felt bad for talking her in to comming. It would have tainted her against the whole thing. I don't understand the logic for those with self sufficiency log home builders mentality meeting in that place. Loved the seminar, hated Vegas.

[jrdavis]

Hey JD,

Why in the world would you call that piece ( sawmill_leg.jpg ) a stabilizer? It seems to me to be the most unstable design this side of Charlie Sheen! I was thinking of welding a big ole box of steel tubing going straight up from each rear wheel and welding or bolting to the very top of the carriage uprights. In the real world I don't know whether it hurts anything to have the carriage wobble around like it does, probably makes no difference, but it sometimes bugs me.

Ten minutes later...
As I sit here and think about it, I am convincing myself that the wobble doesn't matter. The blade height does not change vertically and the rascal cuts smooth. Why mess with perfection. I think I'll let you solve the wobble problem and I'll follow your lead.

About the auto darkening welding hood, it is the only way to go. I'm sure there are better ones out there but I love the one I got from HF for $35. Had it 2 or more years now and it has never failed me except when I try to weld in the dark. I'm a shade tree welder and my workspace lighting is controlled by a higher power. When He lets the Sun set my HF hood goes on strike and I have to get out my old hood.

well Okay, maybe "wobbly legs on rollers" would have been more appropriate, but it sounded silly....
It should an easy weld, I'm thinking.... but I'd rather have more track length, so i'm not going to worry about it for now, I hope to get to it that next.
I'll look into the hood. the only ones I saw online and in the store were 49.95. Still probably a bargain.. because I always have to GUESS for the start of the weld and its "distracting" at best.
I can get a pretty good bead, once I get the "temps" right for the burn.
forging ahead :)
------
The next day.......

So I went online, found another 20% off coupon and WALLA -- a new auto-darkening helment from HF regularly 69.99, on sale for 49.99 and with the 20% off it was 39.99 :) woohoo.
Then I bought 2 new welding magnet angle holders for 2.99 each.... but they rang up for $0.99 cents.... so I ran back and bought 4 more ( 6 for the original price of 2 ) and some new welding rods E6011 (lots of flux, easier weld for beginners, I read )
Now to use the chopsaw to cut metal and begin extending my track to 20+ feet.
progress.

[iffy]

If you guys want to know just about anything about sawmilling, try forestryforum.com. Great bunch of people!

[loghousenut]

If you guys want to know just about anything about sawmilling, try forestryforum.com. Great bunch of people!

That's how we got this far into milling. It's a great site.

[LogSurfer2]

Log Lover, I went to the last Vegas class. You are absolutely right. The room was $350 for 2 nights and the experience of Vegas was much worse than I saw 10 to 15 years ago when I was there for a different seminar. I just went to the class, got something to eat and went to my room to try to get away from it all. I was so glad my wife didn't come, She would have hated it and I would have felt bad for talking her in to comming. It would have tainted her against the whole thing. I don't understand the logic for those with self sufficiency log home builders mentality meeting in that place. Loved the seminar, hated Vegas.

I hear ya, Log Doc! Vegas was pretty bad at times....we did enjoy the Prime Rib all you can eat dinner for $15.99 at our hotel, and the pool, but other than that....not much in Vegas for me. We took refuge in our room and class was FANTASTIC!!! Say, were you there on Labor Day?? We were in the middle on the right side (when looking from the back of the room). Judy & Don Rainey....from CA. We lose....cause it's hard to get free trees in CA ;-)

Anyways, what are your plans for building??

[Mosseyme]

JR,
Sorry I missed the question. Yes blade level on both sides with the log bunk. We have trouble sometimes with the blade tensioner pulling the blade slightly out of level. Even 1/16th will mess with you lumber. I think we need to replace one of the tension rollers because it has gotten some rust and the bearing isn't doing so well now.

[tjmash]

Hi, been busy with the build that I didn’t get into this sawmill discussion right away much as I wanted to. Anyway, just what the rest is saying the type of sawmill you choose is a personal preference. In our case, We decided to go with Cook’s MP-32 sawmill which we purchased 2 years ago before we got the logs as we figured that it would be a good investment as i would be able to cut 80% or better of the materials that we would be needing for the house. This Cook’s has 27 hp kohler engine with 19” solid band wheels and 2 roller blade guides to keep the blade level . It can cut 32” dia. Logs at 16 ft long and I’m on the process of adding more bed so my cut length would be 26’. This mill is not the biggest or smallest but it fits our need.
With my play time I started to discover that the super sharp blades is far better and last twice as long as others that I have tried. A far as blade diving or blade pulling down when cutting I have found that it could be a number of things but first thing you want to check is blade flatness all the way from the gullet of the blade to the base. This must be flat all the way around. As far as tension, make sure your blade is about 1/8” pass the gullet on both band wheels. Make sure bed is level. Blade shouldn’t be tipping up or down from your bed.
With types of tooth set for blades, in reality all tooth set is design to do is to expel the sawdust from your cut so it does not bind your blade.
Hard knots will not be a problem for you if all of the above is set. Its also important to use the right amount of lubricant.

Just a few pics.352

[loghousenut]

I'll trade mills anytime.

[jrdavis]

---tjmash
What lubricant are you using? (LHN are you using more than water???)

--
My Father and Brother came up this weekend for some downtime and wanted th see the MILL in action. so I had 2 passes left on a 6 ft piece of walnut so I got to show them the smooth cut of the woodmizer blade.
My brother is a cabinet maker and even he was surprised at the near planer cut of the blade.
---
BTW -- I found that *I* know when everything is "LEVEL".
When I pull the carrage back after a cut and the blade scrapes all the sawdust off the top of the log.
ahhh, its the little things.
--
I have 8 'legs' now that I can weld onto the bed now..... and can make them up to 22 inches.
anybody got a feel for a good height for the bed??
JD

[loghousenut]

I took the advice of some of the guys/gals on the sawmill forums and I tossed the water lube system and use Pam cooking spray instead. Of course I get the 2-pack at Costco. Seems to work great and it's good for business HahaHha.

If you try it, you'll find it is super easy to reach down with your right hand and spray the blade from the front. DON'T. I had to FORCE TRAIN myself to spray from the REAR of the spinning blade. It'd be soooo easy to lose a thumb or two.

By the way, I am in the process of making a little shed to park the carriage under. I will mate up a 6' section of the HF track to the back end of the track that I made so I can roll the carriage back under cover when I am not running the saw. Thought about making a shed for the entire mill but the way my log deck is situated it is really easy reach across the mill with the telehandler and grab the logs with a set of tongs. It is hard to want to roll logs by hand when there is a machine sitting there begging to get in on the action.

[jrdavis]

I replaced my Pam cooking spray with a hand pump refillable sprayer.
so that begs the question -- does Pam / Olive oil / vegtable oil / linseed oil..... etc stain or color the wood?
I want to mke sure that I dont' have oil spots to deal with down the road.

Also, the water/lubricant is to keep the blade cooler..... right?
so is a spray "now and then" going to do the job?
I'm pretty absent minded, like on the self oiler chainsaw, fill and forget -- thats my motto. :)
I dont' want to look down and see the blade glowing cause I forgot. :p

JD
ps. I won't spray from the front. I have experience with a router bit @3600RPM's

[loghousenut]

I'm no expert but, there seems to be some debate as to whether the liquid drip is for cooling the blade or just sap control. The Pam users seem to think a constant drip is unnecessary. I'm the last guy to know one way or the other but I somehow fell into the Pam camp when the water bottle got in the way of one of my modifications and I haven't put it back on yet.

The Pam does not seem to stain anything that I have noticed. I am cutting Ponderosa Pine with very little pitch content and I give the blade a little shot of Pam every 4 to 10 cuts or so.







NOTE TO SELF... Don't loan chainsaw to JD.


HahhahhHhhaaa

[jrdavis]

O.I.C.
yeah, I do remember reading about the 'sap' buildup.... I just thought it was the sap behind the saw. ;)
What was the modification you made that removed the water battle??? -- Don't tease me like that.

speaking of chainsaws.... you should have seen my wifes face when she saw the 28 inch blade for my Stihl when it came in.
"What is THAT???" she said.
notin but smile, I had.
JD

[tjmash]

Sorry i didnt get back to you till now,was on split shift.
I use diesel fuel on all and it is put on the blade with a wick system with no waste.We go through about 1 gal every 8 to 10 hours of cut time.
You dont smell the fuel at all cause of the small amounts and works great for the blade.
For some reason our mill didnt show up on the pictures sent so i need to take new pics.and send.

Tim & Grace

[Mosseyme]

JD
I noticed you were asking about turning bigger logs. If you have a solid fixture in line with the side of your sawmill deck [tree, truck, barn post] you could chain a winch and cable to it, make or buy a log hook and attach to the end. Then bring the hook over your log hooking to the underside of the log then crank the winch in and watch her turn. Of course you must have log post up for it to roll against. Work carefully those logs aren't very forgiving if they get going somewhere you don't want. Always assume it can slide, roll, or swing in the direction that is impossible. When working alone I try to keep a peevee real close just in case I have to get that sucker off my own foot.

[Mosseyme]

Another tip for your sawmill. Get a cheap light leaf blower to keep with your sawmill stuff for cleaning the sawdust off of everything. Also depending on where you get your logs, you might want a metal dector, a sixteen nail can make quick loss of a band.

[jrdavis]

Mosseyme.
Sorry for not taking notice of this sooner. somehow I missed this post.
Unfortunately, I have my mill in an open area with no tree, barn or post large enough to tie into.
But the TRUCK might work.... wait -- I COULD move the crane over there.
I think I need to secure my mill rails a little better before I try turing a 1200 pound, 24' Elm "branch". -- You planning a trip to nebraska/Iowa any time soon :)

I have a picutre I need to post in reference to your metal detector comment, but its a fact worth noting. "need to get one" is a line my wife is getting tired of hearing.

JD

[Mosseyme]

Did not want to clutter the HF mill thread, so I posted a few pictures and details of our Norwood mill on my LHBA blog site "Our World" Also a few skidding pictures but couldn't get the videos to load.

[Mosseyme]

Timberwolf,
Thanks for the comments. Yes a lot of hard work but since the Hemlocks are all dead or dying we will not even be able to go out there it we don't get these monsters down.

[jrdavis]

Mosseyme,

Have you been milling anything lately?
Its been snowy and cold and wet here.

NOT my idea of fun...
50-60's???? sure. I'm ready to cut up the last of the elm.

I was able to plane some of the Walnut that I milled after it drying for 2-3 months
Not tooo bad and to think that its "free".
I had a guy drooling in my barn last week, when he saw my 3 1/2" slabs of walnut that were 10 ft long and 15 inches wide.

[Mosseyme]

I' v got some black walnut that I need to mill but just can't seem to find the time for. The 44" butt log I'm planning to hollow out for a bathtub, ha,ha, sounds funny I know. I figure enough poly will seal anything, maybe. It is to fat to put on the mill anyway and it is the special walnut that was in my mother's yard through my growing up. I knew that tree for 50 years. I have several logs from it that need to be milled.
I finished milling that hickory and then did a few pine, hemlock and poplar. It is some of the logs that have been down for 3 years. We have a lot of those logs that are 8'to20'.
We will be milling some 3X10s for floor joist, a lot of 2x6 and 2x8 for roof and logs and alot of 1x for 2nd roof. I'm always pulled between the mill and the logging, and digging the basement.

[rkissinger]

I' v got some black walnut that I need to mill but just can't seem to find the time for. The 44" butt log I'm planning to hollow out for a bathtub, ha,ha, sounds funny I know. I figure enough poly will seal anything, maybe. It is to fat to put on the mill anyway and it is the special walnut that was in my mother's yard through my growing up. I knew that tree for 50 years. I have several logs from it that need to be milled.
I finished milling that hickory and then did a few pine, hemlock and poplar. It is some of the logs that have been down for 3 years. We have a lot of those logs that are 8'to20'.
We will be milling some 3X10s for floor joist, a lot of 2x6 and 2x8 for roof and logs and alot of 1x for 2nd roof. I'm always pulled between the mill and the logging, and digging the basement.

Mossey, your bathtub idea is inspired genius! I've never seen or heard of one like that before. Boats have been made from wood for thousands of years, so wood and water can get along fine with the right methods. How do you plan to hollow it out? I am imagining it like an old dugout canoe or something, is that about right? If you ever get around to doing that, take lots of pictures and let us know all about it. Heck I may even drive across the country just to see it.

[sdart]

Heck I may even drive across the country just to see it.

I'm already planning my trip :) What a great idea!

[loghousenut]

Hey Mossey, That bathtub idea is full of ways to fail and yet it's been done before. My favorite was a 6' diameter cedar log, cut in half, and laid on its side before hollowing out the hot tub. I saw it 30 years ago when I took a tour of 6 or 8 of Skip's student's homes. It was made by a couple who had recently completed their home and the tub was brand new. Wish I could retrace my steps and see it now to see how it weathered.

The same couple fashioned a lovely spiral staircase by mortising the treads into a rather large upright log. That also has been done to death but that couple did it with art and style with a distinctive lingering note of perfection.

I say give it a shot. The worst you could end up with is a bunch of expensive firewood that didn't cost you anything.

[Mosseyme]

Ya'll come on!!! I'll let you know when I get started. I may be vegetarian but I'm a pretty good cook inspite of it.
Now for the bath. I really think I'll just start carving down into it with a basic idea in my head of where I'm going. There is a little round chainsaw blade that can go on a angle grinder that seems like it might be the best way to start digging. I don't want to cut it in half because I want it deeper and rounded in at the top somewhat so it will be an experiment all the way. I don't think I have the patience to do the whole log burn out thing but who knows.
I tend to work on the premis that you don't know what you can do until you give it a go. Like you say LHN there is always firewood.
My biggest concern is if I get to much wood out of it will it split all to pieces. I haven't worked with walnut so I don't know how brittle it is. It has been cut for 1 1/2 years I'm open for suggestions. [Not that I will necessarily take it]

[jrdavis]

I'm getting ready to add some length to my rails.
just another 4 foot.
I'm going to need to aadd more length too -- now that I'm getting my logs at the end of the month.
I was wondering if I should just purchase some 1 piece railings for the full 30 foot or weld aonther 15 foot section on to the current stuff Ihave.
a single rail would sure make it alot more sturdy.
any thoughts from you REAL larger mill owners? :)

[loghousenut]

I'm getting ready to add some length to my rails.
just another 4 foot.
I'm going to need to aadd more length too -- now that I'm getting my logs at the end of the month.
I was wondering if I should just purchase some 1 piece railings for the full 30 foot or weld aonther 15 foot section on to the current stuff Ihave.
a single rail would sure make it alot more sturdy.
any thoughts from you REAL larger mill owners? :)

Your main trouble will be trying to match that metric angle iron of the HF track. When I made my new 20' track I was looking for bargain steel so I just got what I got and went to town with no consideration to mating it up to the HF track. I'm not sure I know how someone who knows what they're doing would do it.

[jrdavis]

So I was thinking (yep, that stuff again).
Have you ever looked at the protable mill at http://lumbersmith.com/

Why can't i build a rail like this one out of wood, change the tires ont he HF Mill to some HF no flat tires (solid) and then be bale to cut a log of any length anywhere???

I just need someone to hlep me slow the insanity so I don't hurt myself....
Like last night witht he wild Idea of writing my initials with the chainsaw in the end of a LOG.
THAT was a bad Idea. Good think I quit after the 2nd kickback happened. :) (yeah, slow learner)

JD

[loghousenut]

I've never seen a Lumbersmith mill in action so my opinion is worth what it normally is. When I was mill shopping, I read everything I could find on the net about it and came to the conclusion that (I am paraphrasing) it's a fairly cool little mill that is too small to be useful, to big to want to carry, and has a track system that drives you nuts and makes you want to go back to milling lumber by eye with a misery whip.

You have to securely lay the "L" track so that it is fairly level side to side and also fairly in plane with the top of the log. Then you have to securely lay the "V" track the proper distance from the "L" track and in the same plane. Then you are ready to slab a log but slabbing is just about all you can do.

My vote is for buying a bunch of iron and warming up the welder. While you are at it you could easily weld up a JD branding iron and brand the dickens out of that log that tried to kick the chainsaw back on your noggin.




PS... I never thought about quitting after the second kickback. Smart! I tend to quit just after the second set of stitches (I like to analyze every accident).

[Mosseyme]

Ok so we aren't expert mechanics. The sawmill starter had quit and I can't pull start it which is very inconvenient when he has to be doing something else. In the process of getting the celenoid out to replace it we also pulled the starter. I'm sure there is an instrument that holds the magnets back so you can get the brushes back in but we didn't have one. Here is what does work. 4 little finish brads one inserted in front of each magnet down through a slot in the housing to hold it back. Then my elastic hair band around the head of the brads to pull them in line. Then gently slip the brushes into the magnets and slide the hair band and the brads out. Took a little figuring to find what would work but hey, we are LHBA trained figurers. We had to high five ourselves. Mill is starting like a charm.

[WornOut]

Think my offer being accepted today on a 15 year old Wood-mizer LT-40. Great shape, says 287 hours meter, area folk say they believe it since he used to build log home and rarely after. He passed and kids selling off things. No abuse at all I can find - no nicks, paint job even looks factory fresh, purred like a mountain lion and cut some trials pine like butter but pine is soft. Needs a fresh blade in my mind maybe for hardwood but for $9K I think I its a nice buy. Not another bidder on it and only 1 looker.... bad economy killing people yet.
Will be in the UP area hopefully by mid_april and raring to go. If weather stays like this it will anyway

[Mosseyme]

Sounds like a great deal. Hope you get it.

[jrdavis]

Wow that sounds like a GREAT deal.

if you've got the money... it will save you $$$ and keep you busy for years to come.

JD.
ps. Plus its fun to use.

[loghousenut]

WornOut, If you don't like that saw I'll trade mine for it any time you want.

[WornOut]

Pretty excited - the saw is mine. I have to make a 6 hour drive here today to square up things with them and a place to store it. Doesn't make sense hauling it here and then back up there and beyond again in a month or so. Let ya'll know after I got some time on her but from everything I read and those I talked to I got a nice mill at a good price. Think it best to go to them for a couple of blades or you got rec's on blades?

[Mosseyme]

Cooks supersharps, Wow, good deal. Told a friend about it that does some sawing and has been wanting a Mizer for ever. His eyes lite up and he sat up and said what!!!is it still available?

[jrdavis]

worn out.....
Thats great. congrats.

Get the Woodmizer blades. THEY are awesome.
LHN and I both bought them and love the cut. read this whole thread, I think the blade type is in here somewhere.

It is 65 degrees, sunny and jsut a beatuiful day.... and I'm stuck in the house after having knee surgery, when I COULD be sawing!!!!
Probably NOT a good thing to do today with the Oxycotin i'm on :)

JD

[logguy]

Heads up: HF has their saw mill on dale for 1899--and on Jan 1 it will still be on sale AND you can use the 25% off one item coupon!

This mill now has a 280cc engine. Anyone have any idea how many hp it may put out?

Those who own this mill, is it set up in a way that you could swap out the motor with a larger one with more hp if needed? Horizontal or vertical shaft engine?

LHN, what size Woodmizer blades did you buy?

Hope everyone had a great Christmas. Happy New Year!

[jrdavis]

I ordered the B3751449S but can't seem to find it.
The size was for medium hard wood, Green cut, homemade saw. (oddly, they didn't have the HF saw ) :)
1.25 wide, .45 thick and 144 length.
They are doublehard blades and there are three to choose from.

BE VERY CAREFUL to follow instructions when opening the blades from the box.
They will pop out and CUT you if not careful.
JD

update --
My blades were 9 degrees...
Now they have 4, 10 and 39 degrees.
B37514410S is the 10 degrees.

[loghousenut]

Heads up: HF has their saw mill on dale for 1899--and on Jan 1 it will still be on sale AND you can use the 25% off one item coupon!

This mill now has a 280cc engine. Anyone have any idea how many hp it may put out?

Those who own this mill, is it set up in a way that you could swap out the motor with a larger one with more hp if needed? Horizontal or vertical shaft engine?

LHN, what size Woodmizer blades did you buy?

Hope everyone had a great Christmas. Happy New Year!

I remember Mr. Etzel, my high school metals and ag shop teacher. One of the guys wanted to hop up the old Desoto his Dad had given him. Mr. Etzel said he could mill the head and have the cam reground but he'd most likely hole a piston. Once he had a set of good strong forged pistons, he'd most likely have crank bearing problems because of all the extra useable horsepower. Maybe he oughta forget about that old anchor of a flathead 6 cylinder altogether and swap in an early hemi V-8 (the 426 was still too new and expensive) but then he'd have to get a transmission to boot. Once that was done he'd twist off an axle or two before he swapped in a bigger rearend out of a pickup but then he'd have driveshaft troubles.

The kid painted flowers and hippie slogans on the old Desoto and learned that most gals really didn't like fast cars anyway.

I bought my HF mill thinking that I might still want to make my own mill and this thing might be a cheap head start. The 280cc, horizontal shaft engine seems to be enough horsepower for anything it'll cut. I suppose a guy could hop it up some but then you'd be stressing the guide bearings and it'd be more work to push. I say paint flowers on it and get to work building a better track. All you really want is custom cut lumber. This mill is so much faster that an Alaska mill and it's fairly relaxing to use for the most part. I still wish it was twice the size so I could cut all those 35" logs that go turn up now and then but this thing costs less than $2,000! There are bigger, faster, self feeding, self loading, etc., etc., etc., mills out there but if they come to you for this kinda money you're in that 1% range of lucky skill.

In my mind the biggest limitation (with consideration of the price) is the blade they send you and the track. When you first get your mill on the ground, open the crate enough to find the blade. Take it out and measure it. Call Woodmizer and say these words "Ma'am I'm really kinda slow and stupid and I don't rightly know what I'm doing... I got me a cheap sawmill and I'm holding the blade right here... Could you send me 10 or 15 of whatever you think I oughta have and I'll pay you whatever it's worth". She/he will do the rest. When those blades are dull you can send them back to Woodmizer and they'll sharpen them for a reasonable fee and everyone seems to agree that they are good at it.

As for that wimpy little 2 piece, 12' long track.... I bought $300 worth of iron and welded up a beautiful 20' track.



I still like mine and last week it started right up after sitting for quite awhile.

[edkemper]

Actually, woodmizer doesn't just resharpen the blades. They check and sharpen all the angles and readjust the teeth.

[logguy]

You guys rock and roll--thank you so much for this info!

LHN, you could make alotta dough as a syndicated columnist. I always enjoy your posts.

[loghousenut]

Thanks but the Muffin Store pays too well.






PS.... You oughta hear my act in person... Folks say I have a face for radio.