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View Full Version : *On site storage*??



logsurfer
04-25-2011, 01:27 PM
Just wondering what others might have done in regards to 'storage' of your 'life' belongings if you lived on site? Seems counter-productive to pay for storage.... I have recently been checking out 16X20 Canvas Wall Tents, that you could even build a temp. base for just to get it off the ground and such....seems cool enough,but worth the price? What have you done?

Scoutman
04-25-2011, 01:54 PM
What I plan on doing, and it appears that alot of others have done, is start off building a structure that will eventually be a garage. Gives you practice for the "real" home that you'll build, can be used for storage, and if necessary you can live in it while building your home. Still may have to put things in storage until that is built tho.

logsurfer
04-25-2011, 01:56 PM
Great idea...but in GA does it have to be to code?? I know around here I read something about how big your 'shed' could be before having to get a permit?

Scoutman
04-25-2011, 02:05 PM
I'm sure it does. H3!!, my county engineer won't approve any kind of log structure (except kits) unless it's stamped by a GA engineer. Still looking for one.

StressMan79
04-25-2011, 03:16 PM
1) there is generally a size below which no engineering is required. This is often 300 SF (where I am at) 200 sf (more common) or even 120 SF (where I used to live in town)

2) just get a shipping container. I bought mine outright for 1600 bucks (20x8x8). If you can get them to your place, a larger one would be nicer. Building a shed that big for that price is difficult, and they are lockable and watertight.

Live on site if you can. it will cut the work time in fourths. And make sure your wife is on board. Mine seemed to be OK, but now it is OK to vacation there, but not to live. Oh well, my situation don't really allow for much more, unless I married a sasquatch...

-Peter

logsurfer
04-25-2011, 04:52 PM
1) there is generally a size below which no engineering is required. This is often 300 SF (where I am at) 200 sf (more common) or even 120 SF (where I used to live in town)

2) just get a shipping container. I bought mine outright for 1600 bucks (20x8x8). If you can get them to your place, a larger one would be nicer. Building a shed that big for that price is difficult, and they are lockable and watertight.

Live on site if you can. it will cut the work time in fourths. And make sure your wife is on board. Mine seemed to be OK, but now it is OK to vacation there, but not to live. Oh well, my situation don't really allow for much more, unless I married a sasquatch...

-Peter

The wife is on board and steering the dream forth...she's the one who found this site and stoked the dream. That's one plus on my side :) From what I can gather your hidden in the hills...so there's no squabble about a shipping container just parked on site? You had that hauled up there? Where did you find that?
Love the you tube site...funny thing is I think we saw the 1st log video months ago before we knew you were even on here-or found this site for that matter.....Classic!

travelin01
04-25-2011, 06:25 PM
shipping container, or even an old semi trailer can be found for pretty reasonable. I've known guys who have take the trailer and set it down on the ground like the shipping container or build steps for the rear. I'm going to buy an 18' refrigerated van body this week to store furniture in a dry, rodent free environment. Would use one of my old trailers, but this will fit in the yard much better.

logsurfer
04-25-2011, 06:34 PM
shipping container, or even an old semi trailer can be found for pretty reasonable. I've known guys who have take the trailer and set it down on the ground like the shipping container or build steps for the rear. I'm going to buy an 18' refrigerated van body this week to store furniture in a dry, rodent free environment. Would use one of my old trailers, but this will fit in the yard much better.

Wow, that does sound like an ideal setup....why refrigerated? To keep at a steady temp? I take it no one cares where your at...just plopping it on your property?

StressMan79
04-26-2011, 08:07 AM
Yes, I am in the hills, nearest neighbor is 1 mile down a dirt ex logging road. my shipping container is just about 160 sf, so no permits apply to me, and my neighbors (even if they could see it) could sit on it.

I got it from the port of tacoma, found a shipper that would park it on his trailer in my driveway while I loaded it up for a couple weeks. Then he hauled it most of the way there... ended up blowing out his tranny in the process... wasn't the most savvy trucker in the world, I'll bet he tried to pull the 13k# over the mountains in overdrive.

Anyway, that is a story for another day. The good thing is that it cost me 1600 for the trailer and 500+gas for that guy to blow up his truck. My friend (logger) brought it the last 60 miles. The last 15 with his dump truck on his HD trailer, and the last 1 towing his Dump truck with a CAT up the mountain... That part prolly cost another 500 bucks, but it is there now and done right.

I have a "penthouse" on top of it now. I had 8k worth of materials and no logs at my property, so we did this in a couple weeks.

http://i319.photobucket.com/albums/mm471/stressman79/DSC00189-1.jpg

that plywood is temporary. It was covering the picture window while I was having a rock blasted out of my footer.

loghousenut
04-26-2011, 09:35 AM
There is nothing better than building where you live. Many of my tools are sitting on the jobsite where I left them last fall. They are a secure as anything else on the place. I can look out the window as I type and see the log house. While thieves could hit us any time, we'd be an easier mark if we lived an hour away. If they hit us with our present situation they'd probably be looking for guns and cash before they worried about tools or copper wire.

PS... I have the guns right next to me.

rreidnauer
04-26-2011, 10:15 AM
Yup, I got a 45 foot reefer trailer for $1500. (but spent another $950 total in moving costs)

Two reasons for a reefer. 1- Slow internal temperature changes prevent condensation on equipment stored inside, reducing rust and corrosion of tools and equipment. 2- More secure and strong, being laminated double walled throughout. (much like SIPs, but with aluminum instead of plywood)

I actually have a third reason, but wouldn't apply to everyone. I'm doing rainwater catchment, and I'll have two 275 gallon water containers inside, which need to survive the winter. It'll be easier to keep it >32'F in a reefer. (and if I can get the reefer unit running again, it does have a heat mode)

logsurfer
04-26-2011, 11:11 AM
Yes, I am in the hills, nearest neighbor is 1 mile down a dirt ex logging road. my shipping container is just about 160 sf, so no permits apply to me, and my neighbors (even if they could see it) could sit on it.

I got it from the port of tacoma, found a shipper that would park it on his trailer in my driveway while I loaded it up for a couple weeks. Then he hauled it most of the way there... ended up blowing out his tranny in the process... wasn't the most savvy trucker in the world, I'll bet he tried to pull the 13k# over the mountains in overdrive.

Anyway, that is a story for another day. The good thing is that it cost me 1600 for the trailer and 500+gas for that guy to blow up his truck. My friend (logger) brought it the last 60 miles. The last 15 with his dump truck on his HD trailer, and the last 1 towing his Dump truck with a CAT up the mountain... That part prolly cost another 500 bucks, but it is there now and done right.

I have a "penthouse" on top of it now. I had 8k worth of materials and no logs at my property, so we did this in a couple weeks.

http://i319.photobucket.com/albums/mm471/stressman79/DSC00189-1.jpg

that plywood is temporary. It was covering the picture window while I was having a rock blasted out of my footer.

That is a funny tragic story! Sucks for the 'trucker'. You got good friends with cool toys...that's a serious +
Bro, that is a serious man cave! Great idea! just shaking my head laughing...that's brilliant!

logsurfer
04-26-2011, 11:14 AM
Yup, I got a 45 foot reefer trailer for $1500. (but spent another $950 total in moving costs)

Two reasons for a reefer. 1- Slow internal temperature changes prevent condensation on equipment stored inside, reducing rust and corrosion of tools and equipment. 2- More secure and strong, being laminated double walled throughout. (much like SIPs, but with aluminum instead of plywood)

I actually have a third reason, but wouldn't apply to everyone. I'm doing rainwater catchment, and I'll have two 275 gallon water containers inside, which need to survive the winter. It'll be easier to keep it >32'F in a reefer. (and if I can get the reefer unit running again, it does have a heat mode)

Wow Rod, you have a great secure set-up! Do I understand this correctly?? After using it for storage you will then transform it to a rainwater catchment?? What's the 'catchment' setup? Wide open containers or other with piping to the containers? That's cool

logsurfer
04-26-2011, 11:16 AM
There is nothing better than building where you live. Many of my tools are sitting on the jobsite where I left them last fall. They are a secure as anything else on the place. I can look out the window as I type and see the log house. While thieves could hit us any time, we'd be an easier mark if we lived an hour away. If they hit us with our present situation they'd probably be looking for guns and cash before they worried about tools or copper wire.

PS... I have the guns right next to me.

Oh yes, I am SURE we would have to live on site...no way around it I'm convinced of that...at least around here that is...penny pinch extraordinaire

lilbluehonda
04-26-2011, 02:27 PM
Still the worse I've seen is a few years back a guy went to his remote cabin and it was gone,it was disassembled and hauled away even pulled his well pump up and stole it,he had a truck there it wouldn't run so they took the wheels and tires

rreidnauer
04-26-2011, 05:27 PM
Wow Rod, you have a great secure set-up! Do I understand this correctly?? After using it for storage you will then transform it to a rainwater catchment?? What's the 'catchment' setup? Wide open containers or other with piping to the containers? That's cool
Nope, it is dual use for now. I have everything stored in it, including the water tanks. The catchment system is "temporary" to supply my camper on the property with water. To do that, I'm going to build a roof over the trailer and extends 12' to the side of the trailer to park my backhoe/car/truck under. (I'm looking for some used telephone poles right now) That will give me 960 sq.ft of collection area. (just 1 inch of rain will fill my two 275 gallon tanks) A gutter with leaf shield will be installed, which will run through a "first flush" diverter (to dump any debris off the roof) then through a gravel prefilter, and into the tanks in the storage trailer. Out of the tank, water will go through a 5 micron filter, then a line will run into the camper, to a UV filter and boost pump to supply all domestic water needs.

I say this is all temporary, because once the house is built, the house roof will be the collection area, and I'll have a much larger cistern, but it will all work the same.

logsurfer
04-26-2011, 07:43 PM
Nope, it is dual use for now. I have everything stored in it, including the water tanks. The catchment system is "temporary" to supply my camper on the property with water. To do that, I'm going to build a roof over the trailer and extends 12' to the side of the trailer to park my backhoe/car/truck under. (I'm looking for some used telephone poles right now) That will give me 960 sq.ft of collection area. (just 1 inch of rain will fill my two 275 gallon tanks) A gutter with leaf shield will be installed, which will run through a "first flush" diverter (to dump any debris off the roof) then through a gravel prefilter, and into the tanks in the storage trailer. Out of the tank, water will go through a 5 micron filter, then a line will run into the camper, to a UV filter and boost pump to supply all domestic water needs.

I say this is all temporary, because once the house is built, the house roof will be the collection area, and I'll have a much larger cistern, but it will all work the same.

Good lord my man! That's awesome! Where did you come up with such a design? That's ingenious...So I gather this may take place of a well? You get a fair amount of rain there in PA don't ya?

rreidnauer
04-27-2011, 03:55 PM
Pretty much standard practice for rainwater catchment systems. I'm just adapting to my needs. Yes, I don't plan on having a well, which also solves having water hardness problems. (rainwater is already "soft") It does add some maintenance though, needing to replace the filter and UV lamp annually, and backflushing the prefilter occasionally depending on the amount of debris that slips past the leaf guards and first flush diverter.

Yea Pennsylvania gets a good quantity of rain. Additionally, I'm in a "snowbelt" area, which also means a rainbelt too the rest of the year. My property is reported to get an annual average of 50 inches. (about 8-10 above the state average)

So, that's roughly 4 inches per month. So that's 2400 gallons from my collection area. If I use 20 gallons per day, that's 600 per month, so I receive 4 times the amount of rain than I'll use. A good safety measure for occasional dry spell.

travelin01
04-27-2011, 06:10 PM
I like the refrigerated bodies for storage as they are lined with white kemlite (cleaner looking) and have ribbed floors so if water ever did get in your stuff wouldn't get wet. Insulation will keep any condensation out also. The one I'm going to get still has the unit on it is diseal/electric. So it will become a little getaway for some of my hobby stuff also has a side walk in door. If you have time google shipping container houses. Some people are pretty creative building them into homes. Out here no one cares what you do, but I have seen them used in town and creative painting can make them blend in pretty well.

logsurfer
04-27-2011, 07:28 PM
I like the refrigerated bodies for storage as they are lined with white kemlite (cleaner looking) and have ribbed floors so if water ever did get in your stuff wouldn't get wet. Insulation will keep any condensation out also. The one I'm going to get still has the unit on it is diseal/electric. So it will become a little getaway for some of my hobby stuff also has a side walk in door. If you have time google shipping container houses. Some people are pretty creative building them into homes. Out here no one cares what you do, but I have seen them used in town and creative painting can make them blend in pretty well.

That Is a great idea! There indeed are some ingenious ways to make those livable...never would have thought! BTW---Where is 'out here' travelin01??

logsurfer
04-27-2011, 07:33 PM
Pretty much standard practice for rainwater catchment systems. I'm just adapting to my needs. Yes, I don't plan on having a well, which also solves having water hardness problems. (rainwater is already "soft") It does add some maintenance though, needing to replace the filter and UV lamp annually, and backflushing the prefilter occasionally depending on the amount of debris that slips past the leaf guards and first flush diverter.

Yea Pennsylvania gets a good quantity of rain. Additionally, I'm in a "snowbelt" area, which also means a rainbelt too the rest of the year. My property is reported to get an annual average of 50 inches. (about 8-10 above the state average)

So, that's roughly 4 inches per month. So that's 2400 gallons from my collection area. If I use 20 gallons per day, that's 600 per month, so I receive 4 times the amount of rain than I'll use. A good safety measure for occasional dry spell.

Not having to dig a well...and have a storage tank and all the initial cost is a plus for sure...but long term?? Couldn't you perhaps just have it brought from 'outside' to a reverse osmosis system and only have to replace the filters once annually?? We were considering that system if it may benefit having to deal with less than desirable well water...would that work?

StressMan79
04-28-2011, 07:26 AM
another option for water... is just have it delivered. There is a guy with a water truck out here, and I can get 1000 gallons delivered for 100 bucks. not the cheapest, but it is clean drinkable water and for as often as I will be there, that is my plan for potable water. There is a "well" on site, but it is shallow and seasonal, and not really good quality (high sulfur content). I am making a well pump for that out of pvc for the "just in case" situation, but will probably not use it much.

-Peter

logsurfer
04-28-2011, 07:48 AM
another option for water... is just have it delivered. There is a guy with a water truck out here, and I can get 1000 gallons delivered for 100 bucks. not the cheapest, but it is clean drinkable water and for as often as I will be there, that is my plan for potable water. There is a "well" on site, but it is shallow and seasonal, and not really good quality (high sulfur content). I am making a well pump for that out of pvc for the "just in case" situation, but will probably not use it much.

-Peter

So I take it you have a 'large' holding tank already on site? how do you access the water from that? Is it set up to be routed to your Temp living quarters?

rreidnauer
04-28-2011, 10:21 AM
Not having to dig a well...and have a storage tank and all the initial cost is a plus for sure...but long term?? Couldn't you perhaps just have it brought from 'outside' to a reverse osmosis system and only have to replace the filters once annually?? We were considering that system if it may benefit having to deal with less than desirable well water...would that work?
By 'outside', do you mean public utility water? If so, I suppose I could, but there's little benefit in doing that in my case. At most, it just adds unnecessary cost. I considered RO, but a UV filter is still recommended even with them, and they waste huge amounts of water. Larger RO systems (whole house) can cost quite a bit and may require circulation pumps which would eat deeper into my limited off-grid power. I could chlorinate my tanks on occasion for a added level of safety, but I'd like to avoid that if possible. I'll have my tank water and post-UV water initially tested a few times to see how it's performing before getting carried away. BTW, I plan on using a UV light rated double my flow rate, just to play it safe.

logsurfer
04-28-2011, 04:27 PM
By 'outside', do you mean public utility water? If so, I suppose I could, but there's little benefit in doing that in my case. At most, it just adds unnecessary cost. I considered RO, but a UV filter is still recommended even with them, and they waste huge amounts of water. Larger RO systems (whole house) can cost quite a bit and may require circulation pumps which would eat deeper into my limited off-grid power. I could chlorinate my tanks on occasion for a added level of safety, but I'd like to avoid that if possible. I'll have my tank water and post-UV water initially tested a few times to see how it's performing before getting carried away. BTW, I plan on using a UV light rated double my flow rate, just to play it safe.

No, sorry....I meant the outside being your storage tanks then running through the RO into your 'building'. I didn't realize they waste large amounts of water??? How so? Yeah, the large ones are certainly pricey...I guess it doesn't make much sense to have a couple smaller versions in place. I did just see one that also used UV as well...didn't really know you could do that to 'kill' off 'stuff' you don't want to that degree? Learning something knew every moment I'm on here :)

rreidnauer
04-28-2011, 07:02 PM
With most RO systems, you have 'uncleansed' water go in and from there 'pure' water passes through the membrane, while what's left behind (contaminates and additional water) are flushed away as to not 'plug up' the membrane. I guess there are some small point of use models that don't flush the membrane, but then, it is more or less just a very low micron (and very low flow rate) water filter at that point.

Yup. UV is very effective, but you do need to run water through a low micron filter first. The water needs to be 'clear' as possible for the UV to be totally effective. (you're basically sunburning bacteria to death, so if there were particulates which bacteria could hide behind, the system would be compromised) It's great because chemicals aren't added to the water, however, there are no residual benefits like chlorine has if the water should be contaminated after the UV filter in some way. (only water in the light chamber is sanitized. UV sanitized water flowing into contaminated pipes won't kill bacteria) The normal course of action is to chemically cleanse your water system just before activating a new UV system. This is one of those cases where copper pipes have merit, because copper does have natural microbe killing properties. PEX can't claim that! My home will be plumbed in copper. I just wish I could have a copper lined cistern too, but that sure isn't going to happen with copper prices the way they are! :-)