Foundation

[Shannonbeth]

How many of you are doing your own foundation?
How many of you are having professionals do it?
Are any of you doing a half and half?
Are you doing the digging yourself? Are you setting up footers?
For those of you who have already gotten past this point, what option did you chose and if you did it on your own how complicated was it?

[ChainsawGrandpa]

Foundations are the second easiest thing to get right on a log home. Care to guess the easiest? ;-) G'pa

[hemlock77]

In our case with the walkout basement, we chose to have the pro's do it. The deciding factor was because we are right in the middle where there was a glacier during the last ice age. We don't just have just rocks, we have boulders, a couple were as big as a car. Here is a sample pic http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/hemlock77/39cd.jpg Stu http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/hemlock77/

[panderson03]

we did half and half. we paid a local to do the excavation and we did the rest (we did hire a cement guy to act as our consultant to keep us from making any terrible mistakes, and for each cement pour (we've had 3....) we also hired a pump truck which made it a breeze:)

[R_Cullen]

I don't have any digging equipment so will contract out that portion of it. But the rest I will do myself. Doing your own foundation is one of the easiest ways to save money, as hiring a pro to do it will cost more then double then if you do it yourself, and its not too hard. I do strongly recommend a pump truck as, like Panderson says, makes the job a breeze. What forms did you use Panderson? Around here everyone uses Duraform, though there are quite a few out there.

[Basil]

i hired mine out, thinking "i've learned so much, and will be doing so much, the one thing that can't be screwed up is the foundation!" Was quite pleased with it, too.

[panderson03]

I don't have any digging equipment so will contract out that portion of it. But the rest I will do myself. Doing your own foundation is one of the easiest ways to save money, as hiring a pro to do it will cost more then double then if you do it yourself, and its not too hard. I do strongly recommend a pump truck as, like Panderson says, makes the job a breeze. What forms did you use Panderson? Around here everyone uses Duraform, though there are quite a few out there.
R_Cullen, we did not use Duraform we actually made our own forms out of 2x10's for our footings (then we re-purposed the 2x10's for our scaffolding...).
then for our frost walls and walk out basement walls we used ICF (went with FOX BLOCKS.....loved them)
and you're right! doing foundations yourself sure does save a lot of $$!!

[dvb]

My wife and I did our own foundation. It was really pretty simple if you understand the basics about concrete and rebar placement. We used Insulated Concrete Forms and are very pleased with them. You just have to make sure everything is level, straight, and square. Depending on where you are building and personal preference, the class will teach another option for your foundation that is really simple.

[Shannonbeth]

I was thinking about having the dig hired as I too do not have the equipment. But I would like to form it myself and also hire a cement truck as it would be so much quicker than having to mix it urself and all that stuff.
I will admitt I am a bit intimidated about doing it as I have never done it before and do not have a lot of knowledge on this. I do have a book on foundations and concrete but it's packed away in a trailer in Minneapolis which is 2 hours away from me. Maybe when I go to get hubby this weekend We will dig them out.
For the forms! Are you able to buy them or do you need to build them yourself? If you can buy them are they really expensive? What tools does it require I buy or rent if possible to do my own foundation?

[StressMan79]

I did a strange foundation--filled CMU block. If I had to do again, I would have went with ICF. Block were more expensive than I thought, heavy, and you could not pour them with a cement truck, so I mixed (in a 5 cF mixer) the 4 yd required to fill them all (only 24x24). I'll hire the floor pour (my construction is nonstandard) and I hired most of the excavation, although Finish excavation was done by hand (I had some members come by and help for that!). Actually members helped with setting the block, mixing the crete and filling the block, not to mention setting logs on top.

-Peter
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_GeXnWUuZ8so/TJLqtQTHrPI/AAAAAAAAXkA/RxZPOLjMGj0/s576/IMG_5089.JPG

[panderson03]

you can buy stuff to make the footings or just make them youself with dimentional lumber. here's one system
http://www.bigfootsystems.com/

[R_Cullen]

For Footings, all you need is dimensional lumber. Get them built how you want and when you're ready you call for concrete. Again, getting a pump truck will save you the hassle of using a wheelbarrow to get the concrete where the truck can't reach, though that will add to the cost by a few hundred. Biggest cost will be the concrete.
Forms, depends on what you are getting. If ICF then it will be expensive, though you'll make that money back in energy savings. If you are doing concrete walls, then yes most suppliers will rent them out. Most foundation companies that I've seen use Duraform, mostly because its very fast and easy to put together( www.duraform.com).
Foundations don't require any special skills or tools. Just the regular tape, hammer, chalkline(or chalk box as some Americans call them)etc. will be good enough. If you have a large and/or complicated foundation planned, I would have a foundation contractor take a look at your finished forms just to be sure everything was fine, though I'm sure you and your husband will do just great. Form rental will typically be charged by the day though so how long it takes you to finish your walls will determine the rental price. How complicated your foundation will determine how long it takes to erect.

[gabaree]

iM THINKING OF DOING MY OWN icf FOUNDATION......Where do you get the special bracing to finish? Can you rent them from the company you buy the ICF's from? or do you have to purchace them?

[R_Cullen]

You can rent the bracing from the same dealer you get the ICF blocks from

[gabaree]

Thanks!But if I have them shipped from acroos the country....shipping the bracing for rent could be very costly?

[Shannonbeth]

Thank you very much!


For Footings, all you need is dimensional lumber. Get them built how you want and when you're ready you call for concrete. Again, getting a pump truck will save you the hassle of using a wheelbarrow to get the concrete where the truck can't reach, though that will add to the cost by a few hundred. Biggest cost will be the concrete.
Forms, depends on what you are getting. If ICF then it will be expensive, though you'll make that money back in energy savings. If you are doing concrete walls, then yes most suppliers will rent them out. Most foundation companies that I've seen use Duraform, mostly because its very fast and easy to put together( www.duraform.com).
Foundations don't require any special skills or tools. Just the regular tape, hammer, chalkline(or chalk box as some Americans call them)etc. will be good enough. If you have a large and/or complicated foundation planned, I would have a foundation contractor take a look at your finished forms just to be sure everything was fine, though I'm sure you and your husband will do just great. Form rental will typically be charged by the day though so how long it takes you to finish your walls will determine the rental price. How complicated your foundation will determine how long it takes to erect.

[R_Cullen]

Hmmm, that is true. Is there no distributer close by? Alternatively you may be able to use the braces from a local distributer of another ICF brand(I think they are all designed the same....i think), but I don't know if they would rent it out to you without buying their blocks. You could try though.

Best bet is to call the people your buying your blocks from and see what your options are. Are you considering different companies or do you have your heart set on this particular brand?

[panderson03]

iM THINKING OF DOING MY OWN icf FOUNDATION......Where do you get the special bracing to finish? Can you rent them from the company you buy the ICF's from? or do you have to purchace them?
can get them from most places where you purchase your ICF. some rental stores have them too. we got ours for $230 due when they were delivered.... then we got to keep them as long as we needed them at no additional cost (COOL!!)

[dvb]

I used 2x4 bracing for my pour. Of course I was only 4' high, if I was going higher I would use the standard ICF bracing. I found that for me it was easier to use a local distributor to purchase the ICF Blocks from, he was very helpful when I purchased them and when I had a problem. He also offered the bracing at no charge if I wanted it, but I would have to haul it. He is the one who told me how to brace with 2x4 and then I could use the 2x4 in the house. For me the cost was about the same as renting forms and all of the supplies you need to use them. I poured my own foundation for about 25% of what a contractor wanted for standard footer and walls. (No ICF)
Dean
http://s522.photobucket.com/albums/w343/deanbrossman/

[Shannonbeth]

Is a walk-out basement something we could do on our own or would we have to hire it out? My husband wants a walk-out and I also prefer that.

[panderson03]

we hired out the excavation part and then did the rest ourselves. WOB are easier to do when you're building on a hill, but log homes are MUCH HARDER to build when the ground is not level.....

[gabaree]

Your RIGHT! Need to look for a distributer that is local.Just trying to plan ahead to save money. Thanks for your input.

[R_Cullen]

A walkout basement usually indicates "step footings" need to be built. They are not difficult and they should be discussed in one of your concrete books. If not, then find one that shows you how to do it(its very basic forming, with more braces then the rest of the footing). Step footings will atleast double the amount of time it takes to complete your footings, however, but there is no reason you can't do it yourself, it just requires a little more care and attention to detail.

[panderson03]

we thought step footings would take a little more time and effort but were sort of surprised that forming in the verticals pretty much doubled our time. or maybe we're just slow.....:)

[ny_log_home_dreamer]

I am not sure if anyone is watching this thread any more, but I have a question about step foundations and why you would use them? Are they more advantageous in warmer climates where you don't have to worry about frost heaving? My understanding up to this point about walk-out basements is this and it comes from the fact I live in a part of the country where the frost line is 5'; a cube with all 4 walls being 8' high (or maybe 6' high to save money). I am impressed with those who have managed a step-footings on there own!!!!!! :eek

[StressMan79]

the beauty of the forum is that you can resurrect threads by posting on them, so we are watching it now ;)

I know of one LHBA house built on a step foundation. this is bc granite is harder to remove than dirt. the foundation was excavated to rock and that is where it stopped. It was built on a hillside, so the downside had a walkout basement. You could still access the step thru a door... this is where he kept the HWH tank, ETC.

[LogLover]

It is resurrected .... so I need to ask - has anyone been in contact with Shannon since last year? I dropped a PM a couple of times way back and never heard a peep again after talking to her quite a bit. Really hope all is well with her and family:confused:

[ny_log_home_dreamer]

I just made a call to a local distributor for a quote/budgetting quote for a 30' x 30' x 8' basement. I live in NY so I have to go down 5' for the frost long, so why not go 3' more and have an additional 900 sq ft of living space to use. He said about 7 - 8 dollars per sq ft of wall. Some quick number juggling gave me about $7700, which includes rebar, forms and cement. Not cheap, but I think it's worth it. Just another bunch of thermal mass to keep my house at a nice steady temp.

Has anyone used the Arxx ICF's? The nice thing about those is they snap together like Legos (I like Legos), they have their own bracing system for the poor and they have the webbing in them at 8" on center so you can hang anything on the inside you would like. Nice insulation factor. They also have training classes to show you how to use their system.

Anyone have a recommendation on how wide the wall needs to be to set these big logs on? From what I am visualizing I see the log being wider than the top of the basement wall. The distributor recommended a 6 1/4" wide ICF. Seems to me this will not be wide enough to set logs on. Any thought...?


we hired out the excavation part and then did the rest ourselves. WOB are easier to do when you're building on a hill, but log homes are MUCH HARDER to build when the ground is not level.....

Pandersono3, when you state about a log cabin being much harder to build when the ground is not level, does not refer to your step footing? I was thinking of a walk-out basement with 4 walls the same height.

[WNYcabinplannin]

We did a step footer doing out ICF walkout basement, as the walkout side still needed to be supported by a footer at or below our ny 4' frostline(perhaps adirondack is 5'?).
I used Logix blocks, as they had a local supplier and are a bit taller and have thicker foam. Not a lot of difference but you do get a 9' basement from 7 course.
Top course doesn't have the Lego bumps and the concrete flares a bit. You'll have a sill plate on top and the rebar or (THRU ROD!!) coming out to secure the first course.668
669



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[ny_log_home_dreamer]

Thank you to those who have responded. I see now the error in my thinking. I was thinking if since I would be diggin down 5' into a slope I could just have a flat footer and build up the walls from there. But now that I see the pictures from WNY (THANK YOU :) !!) I see that each portion of the wall need to be support by a footer that is 5' below grade. I have learned sooooooooooo much on the public side! Thank you to all of the members who spend time with us newbs!! :)

[rreidnauer]

http://community.loghomebuilders.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=668&d=1336004452
Rock-chucker. Greatest invention since the wheel barrow!!!

[ny_log_home_dreamer]

That looks pretty cool. Is this type of machine used where a pump truck can't be used? Is the rock chucker better than a pump truck? I have never seen a rock chucker. Would a pump truck be overkill when pouring the footers? Looks like there is some overspary that may be avoided if someone chose to use a pump truck. Someone have feedback on that?

RR - your right anything is better than a wheel barrow when it comes to move concrete.

[rkissinger]

That looks pretty cool. Is this type of machine used where a pump truck can't be used? Is the rock chucker better than a pump truck? I have never seen a rock chucker. Would a pump truck be overkill when pouring the footers? Looks like there is some overspary that may be avoided if someone chose to use a pump truck. Someone have feedback on that?

RR - your right anything is better than a wheel barrow when it comes to move concrete.

That machine is just for spreading out gravel. It is a miracle of modern engineering to anyone who has ever moved much gravel by hand, just as a concrete pump is. Both are amazingly efficient compared to doing it the old fashioned way.

[Tom Featherstone]

I finished a ICF 2 story house a year ago and we had four elevations changes due to a rock ledge. Yes it was a little complicated but with a rotary laser level and target it was not to bad.

What I've got from here and what I've gained locally here's my current take. 8" concrete forms usually are more than adequate as Richard Rock and others already pointed out, the reason to go bigger is for the esthetics of a large log on top of them and can also aid in placement of your floor. You are also adding to that thermal mass the more crete you pour.

One big mistake made in that ICF house was the guy who drew up the plans didn't use the dimensions of the ICF into the measurements thus we had a hugh amount of waste on an already complicated design roughly a 40x50 with several 45 degree bays and two bump outs on the south side. The point being what ever ICF manufacturer you use, build your place to fit the blocks with no waste. Most of them break out in 4' lengths. I even had to build window bucks with a radius in them the Logix guy took pictures back to the company to show the mfg'r how easy what we did versus what they we're already teaching.

Local support is hugh and how much they'll do besides just sell you the forms and crete. I would weight that large over saving a few bucks.

The most amazing thing about an ICF foundation to me is how Warm they are compared to any other basement I've ever been in. In Michigan now if you build with a basement you have to build up to energy codes and insulate that area. People I really don't think get this when costing out a job and think they're saving money now they'll "insulate" later when they finish that area. That's a lot of money and labor in itself and still isn't even close to having that insulation on the outside too.

Going up one block higher you won't regret down the road having that extra head room down there after your floor joists are in. You're only going to get to do this foundation once.

If I wasn't so crazy like my way out cousins I'd give up this idea of building with logs and build totally ICF.

Logs it will be sitting on a ICF basement we're looking at a ICF root cellar off there too.

[panderson03]

[QUOTE
Pandersono3, when you state about a log cabin being much harder to build when the ground is not level, does not refer to your step footing? I was thinking of a walk-out basement with 4 walls the same height.[/QUOTE]

by 'harder when the ground is not level' I ment that lugging the logs uphill is harder, don't have level ground NEAR the build for log beds and don't have much level ground for the telehandler to sit :) not impossible, just a bit more tricky!

[ny_log_home_dreamer]

by 'harder when the ground is not level' I ment that lugging the logs uphill is harder, don't have level ground NEAR the build for log beds and don't have much level ground for the telehandler to sit not impossible, just a bit more tricky! I am level all around the build site, with a nice gentle slope in one area, so I though this would be a good place to use a WOB.


If I wasn't so crazy like my way out cousins I'd give up this idea of building with logs and build totally ICF.. Tom, it's funny you should mention that because the the rep I talked to at Arxx asked me why I didn't just go two stories with ICF and the put up log siding. Maybe I'll end up there, but should would be nice to be logging at real logs when I am warming myself by a toasty woodstove. Plus I have lots of trees and not much concrete lying around ;)

[ny_log_home_dreamer]

Does anyone have some basic layouts of what a WOB foundation (footers, frost walls, basement walls) looks like? I am having hard time wrapping my head around this. I live in northern NY where the frost line is 5'. If someone has a good website to point me to that would be greatly appreciated as well.
Thank you!!!!

[Timberwolf]

What I've got from here and what I've gained locally here's my current take. 8" concrete forms usually are more than adequate as Richard Rock and others already pointed out, the reason to go bigger is for the esthetics of a large log on top of them and can also aid in placement of your floor. You are also adding to that thermal mass the more crete you pour.

One big mistake made in that ICF house was the guy who drew up the plans didn't use the dimensions of the ICF into the measurements thus we had a hugh amount of waste on an already complicated design roughly a 40x50 with several 45 degree bays and two bump outs on the south side. The point being what ever ICF manufacturer you use, build your place to fit the blocks with no waste. Most of them break out in 4' lengths. I even had to build window bucks with a radius in them the Logix guy took pictures back to the company to show the mfg'r how easy what we did versus what they we're already teaching.

.

Great point Tom. Given that the LHBA plans/idealogy revolves around effiency, this is another good area you can save on.

One of the reasons I really liked the Quad-Lock ICF I used was that there was no block so speak of. Just 2' long sides you assemble into whatever size/thickness you need. Super efficent low waste. My entire roll off for my 30x40 basement fit in my pickup, and over half was sent to the recycling center. Saves a ton on shipping too (my basement came of a 20ft trailer!).

Scott, check out the website of the manf I mentioned above. Order their free DVD and you'll learn a ton about foundations and footings, even if you use another product.

I also find it interesting that your frost line is a foot deeper than mine and I'm a bunch farther north than you are!

[WNYcabinplannin]

NYLHD- I can sense you're overly excited like I was right before the class. Here's what I'm thinking. First, you'll take the class. Then come out and see mine (& a few others in WNY). New members can purchase the stock plans, (3 sizes available). Comes with license. I had my engineer tweak mine (slight size bump and add the WO ICF basement). You'll need a NY licensed engineer to at least stamp your plans. My engineer was great and very fairly priced. Since the work's been done with mine, he'd charge a lot less to do yours.
Take a few breaths. When you can access the members' side you'll spend a sleepless week reading the forum.



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[Mosseyme]

Has anyone used the brick ledger icf form and reversed to use inside the basement for a joist ledger? Just thinking.

[ny_log_home_dreamer]

When you can access the members' side you'll spend a sleepless week reading the forum.
WNYC - Thanks for the encouraging word. I will definitely take you up on your offer to come see your place and some others. I'm hoping I can do this foundation work myself, or at least most of it, since I'm not in a hurry. I know we are supposed to go to the class with no plans and with an open mind. You are right I'm excited and anxious to hear the hummm and smell the diesel fumes from the excavator!!! All in good time. Since we won't have trees ready and money to start on the whole house this year, my wife and I have decided to go with the WOB, so we can live in that until we get other materials, tools and necessities together. Also it will hopefully give us a mortgage free place to live while we do the other prep work. This is why I am trying to gather some info about WOB, how step foundations work, what the process looks like. Our house in on the market and if we sell, we will hopefully break ground on this endeavor this summer. I think I have started dreaming about foundations... :rolleyes:

[Plumb Level]

So you are talking about building the walkout basemnt (WOB)? and then living in it while building the shell on top? Might be pretty interesting trying to have a water tight roof, and how it is going to tie into the perimeter foundation. Also - that pretty much does away with the possibility of using lifting poles. I've only been on here a couple years, and not sure I've seen that done, but I guess if there is a will, there is a way.

Take the class and see if you still want to try that.

[ny_log_home_dreamer]

Plumb Level,
I thought I would toss it out there and see what type of feedback I got from . I am not sure if it's a good strategy. I guess I should have explained my strategy better. I am open to anyone who might say "your plumb crazy", there's a much better way. Basic stratedy:

1) Build and ICF, WOB
2) Cap it and put a roof on
3) Gather materials, tools, logs, and be completely prepped for putting up walls and roof for log home
4) Take roof off WOB
5) Try to create some way to keep the basement dry while constructing the walls and roof weather tight - hopefully complete this in one building season
5a) Not quite sure how to accomplish this
7) Finish enough of the log home to move in to it in the next building season
8) Finish log home by 2030.... LOL

Any constructive criticism, instruction, "no you don't want to do that", "sure it can be done", "I've seen that done", I've done it", etc are appreciated!! :D

[blane]

I had an uncle who did his basement on a stick built home covered it and waterproofed it and lived in that basement until he was done. I have no idea how he kept the water out though. Maybe you could put in a temp floor and tar it with a bit of a slant to have the water run off.

Some of us have lived in campers or old singlewide's found on the purchased property. Ever how you do it though, I like your thought process.

[rreidnauer]

Heck yea, it can be done! Put in the first floor (preferably so it's even with the top of the foundation sill plate) and temporarily cover the floor and over the sill plates with epdm rubber roofing. (you can put the wall logs right on the epdm) It adds some challenges later installing RPSLs, but heck, for rent free living, it's a minor challenge. Some temporary poles can be added in the basement to support floor girders which will later be supported by the RPSL(s). Heck, with ground bermed up on three sides, and a well insulated roof (first floor), that should be pretty dang cozy!

[ny_log_home_dreamer]

Blane,
Thanks for the encouragement. I figure I might as well start thinking out of the box now, since it seems this way of thinking is pretty typical of those who want to take on building their own log home mortgage free! :)

Rod,
Thanks for you input. Thanks for your forward thinking about some challenges with installing the RPSL(s). I'm sure I'll have a better understanding of in regards to your comment about the RPSL(s) once I take the class... just a few weeks away from that!!! I might have to hit you up on your expertise after the class. Hope you don't mind...? :o

[WNYcabinplannin]

Ditto- I think there's too much required to make the WOB livable to do it before the shell. Advantac subfloor can handle a few months of rain, but what about the stairwell opening? Can the floor joists handle load of 5 feet of snow if you don't get your shell under roof in the build season? Insulate the subfloor? Heat the basement? Az maybe, NY? Not for me!
All the extra $$ you'd need would build an outbuilding or a used airstream!
I think you'll be like me: I look back at some of my early posts now that I'm mostly done and thought- 'wow! What the heck was I thinking??' ;)
I think everyone will agree the class changes everything.


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[ny_log_home_dreamer]

WNY,
Just out of curiosity what type of foundation did you use for your build? Since we are both in NY, I am sure what you did will work for me as well, except I will have to go down another foot to meet the frost line requirement of 5'.

[loghousenut]

I like the ICF walkout basement just fine. I can imagine it would be a pain in the bathroom to be living in it while building above it. I know it's been done but are you sure there's not a cheaper and easier way?

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/alabama-trailer-home.jpg

[ny_log_home_dreamer]

Now that's a pretty place... :rolleyes: Where does one come by something like that... LOL


Any constructive criticism, instruction, "no you don't want to do that", "sure it can be done", "I've seen that done", I've done it", etc are appreciated!! :)

I am 100% sure there are cheaper, easier ways from all of the reading I have been doing on this site. I am not sure those cheaper easier ways will work for us, but I am definitely open to suggestions!! The cold climate we live in offers its own set of challenges. The WOB was a thought because I am going to have to put in a 5' frost wall + some height to get the first course of logs above grade enough to not be damaged by water (based on the recommendations I get from the class).That's probably doing to be around 6'. I think square footage below grade is carries a smaller tax burden than square footage above grade, so I was thinking along those lines as well. What is the recommended height above grade for the first course of logs? So I was thinking why not go two more feet and hav a full basement (preferably walk out), it can't be much more expensive than having to put the frost wall and extension above grade that's going to be required by the codes and LBHA building recommendations.

[blane]

You can start stacking logs 18" above grade if you want to but I would prefer 3'. Mine is on piers 18" above grade, I wish I would have went higher.

[blane]

LHN, where did you find a photo of my trailer. You may cause people to covet the good life.
I like the ICF walkout basement just fine. I can imagine it would be a pain in the bathroom to be living in it while building above it. I know it's been done but are you sure there's not a cheaper and easier way?

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/alabama-trailer-home.jpg

[BenB]

What originally was the primary appeal to me about LHBA and the way one builds is/was the sheer beauty and simplicity of the build - logs and maybe piers, maybe not.
It seems its mutated to almost McMansion process and ways of building.
That said - short and sweet is still out there for us with simpler minds I guess. :o

[WNYcabinplannin]

Nylhd- I used Logix ICFs. Love my basement- and it's worth every $. I did it bc the frost line being so low that pier blocks would've been HUGE, and it wasn't that much more $ to do the basement. Be aware though that if you have a slope sufficient for a walkout, that only the high side wall will be easily accessible. I thought I'd be able to use a lull to set my logs, but terrain wouldn't let me. I ended up using a crane. I got a great deal on logs so still got my log walls up within budget. My buddy Bill built near me on a basement, not walkout, on a flat site and got his similarly huge logs up with a one month lull rental :)
@benb: McMansions?? I think that's a stretch- most builds are 30x30s, and people are building what they can afford. Some know the fact that if you plan to resell, a 3 bdrm 2ba has most resale potential so it's smart to do so.
Don't want a big 'fancy' log home? Don't build one! Lotsa folks are doing 25x25. I don't think Skip's way has been diminished- but options and new techniques will come up as people try new things.


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[ny_log_home_dreamer]

What originally was the primary appeal to me about LHBA and the way one builds is/was the sheer beauty and simplicity of the build - logs and maybe piers, maybe not.
It seems its mutated to almost McMansion process and ways of building.
That said - short and sweet is still out there for us with simpler minds I guess.

McMansions are fine for some for others not so. I happen to be one of those, not so guys. But since I have to go 5' just to meet code for a frost while, what's another 3' to have additional living space. Maybe I won't go 30 x 30. Maybe I'll end up around 25 x 25. Right now I live comfortably in 1254 sq ft.

Blane and WNY, your got me ta thinkin' - maybe a better idea is to build on level grade. Come up 5' from the footers to meet the frost wall codes, go another 3 feet for at total of 8' with the basement to give me living space. Pour the 8' walls using ICF's. Back fill the grade to 5' and then I will have 3' above grade before I start setting logs. I could put some windows in the basement for light and use it that way.

I am fortunate enough to have lots of logs, well trees at this point available to me for the log walls. The the money saved there, maybe I will be able to rent a telehandler to set the logs.

Blane, did you set your logs with a telehandler or with a triples, comealongs, pulleys, etc.?

I am getting the impression from reading here that most people either hired, rented or purchased a telehandler and/or crane for setting the logs.

Please keep the feedback coming!! I am really enjoying this discussion!! :)

[blane]

We used block and tackle. Much slower than a lull but it got the job done. If you are not in a huge hurry they save money. Here are a few shots.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TIsfr6ppJuY/TWO5vPF0EwI/AAAAAAAABG4/ZN-de6aazKA/s1600/IMG_4151.jpg
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_y5E9JBiITEI/TPGimaY7BbI/AAAAAAAAA7A/TIpV0l_6Gj0/s1600/DSCN5139.JPG
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_y5E9JBiITEI/TFnBvLW22_I/AAAAAAAAAwo/q5wSzGUCphE/s1600/DSCN4380.JPG

[ny_log_home_dreamer]

Blane,
Pretty neat! I assume they teach this in the class? When your done with that truck can I borrow it... :)

[blane]

They will teach you any and every option available. Then if you need help we are here.