What size Cedar Logs should I harvest?

[IowaGuy]

Hello! I have a question. I just bought 40 acres in southern Iowa and I have about 4 acres of dense mature eastern red cedar trees on the property. I want to build a 1900 square foot log home on the property in about 5 years but I don't know what size logs to start killing in order to season them (especially since they are eastern red Cedars, they seem to have more taper than pine?). I've read some articles saying 8 to 10 inches and others saying 12 to 14 inch logs. I was thinking about taking a chain saw and ringing them and just let them stand for 5 years to season (is this the correct way to season them?) I also want to make sure to get the proper size tree before harvesting. Also, does anyone have an idea of how many trees I'd need? I was thinking 150 or so? Thank you!

[StressMan79]

I am from NW Iowa. Moved to WA to make airplanes @ Boeing.
Using BnP, you don't need to season them, if you are doing a full-scribe or saddle notch home, then you will want to.
Size wise, the bigger the better. you'll have fewer joints to scribe/chink, and you'll have more R-value/Thermal mass. However, if you have a few trees that are say 30" and the rest that are 12-14, go with the smaller logs, since the a few large logs won't go good with the other logs (in the wall).
The class teaches you how to build a simple box. Calculating the number of trees required to make such a home is easy. if you want say a 14" wall, have say 12-14" logs, you'll need 12 of them to make the height you want. (including some gaps between the logs). You'll need 4 walls, so that is 48 logs, then you'll need prolly 4 RPSLs for a house this big, especially cedar, and 1 RP, so that is 53, and a girder or 3, so maybe 56, plus you'll want 5-10 extras for some pad (more if you are full scribing, there is more stuff to go wrong). Anyway, for a BnP home, you can prolly get by with 70 logs, with 3 that are good size for the ridge pole and cap logs. This neglects rafters. You might use some imported DF 4x12's for rafters, or you might want to use log rafters, which will add to the count.
Anyway, if you can at all swing it, take the class. You'll more than recoup the cost.
-Peter

[dvb]

I would recommend that you take the class before you start making rash decisions. Standing dead trees in your environment will attract bugs, bug are a larger problem than unseasoned logs will be. You asked how many logs will it take to build your house, I would liken that question to how many rocks will fit in my pail? How tall will your walls be? How large will your logs be? I hope I do not come across as mean or rude, I don't want to be. I used 49 logs in my cabin, I think Shark used about 100.

[IowaGuy]

I am planning on taking a class but I'd like to take it in about 3 years so as not to forget too much information before I jump in with both feet. I have 4 acres of eastern red Cedar so dense that I can't even walk into it--I want to thin this patch of wood regardless and I've spoken to some lumber mills in the area and they will take them out but will pay $0. Eastern red cedar is actually a juniper and is almost impervious to bugs once dead, that's why they use this variety of tree for fence posts that will weather for decades. I was just asking anyone who has worked with this type of tree in the past since its shape and charactaristics are different from some of the longer less tapered variety of evergreens commonly used for homes. I'd rather get a head start on the lumber seasoning process and I'd like to know the proper size to harvest and the proper method for seasoning this variety of tree, is standing seasoning acceptable for this variety of tree? I'd rather cut more than less, what I don't use, I'll make into fence posts or use it as fire wood. I didn't think asking these questions would get such a harsh response from someone?

[IowaGuy]

Thank you for your advice stressman, I appreciate it very much!

[StressMan79]

if you want to contact me off line, send email to stressman79 at hotmail dot com
-Peter

[edkemper]

If you're serious about building a log home, I'd recommend you take the class ASAP. The more time you have on the member's side and the more time you have to collect the things you need, will be of more help than waiting for a few years to start.
The class is the number one thing you want to do if you are serious.
Welcome to the family.

[rawson]

Tis a small country we reside in these days, which is a plus. Being a borne Hawkeye from Burlington, vintage 1954 through 68. I am certainly honored to know one of the best on this site Stressman is a Hawkeye! Those Iowa Tests of Basic Skills exams that most of the country schools required were proof for the nation of how advanced Iowa is on academics. If your getting advise from this site your on the right tract, don't take offence to answers that may seem blunt, shrug it off and carry on with your goals, with 40 acres you will be busy. I drifted myself from my origional plan based on my age, taxes, pension income and what works for me and what was available to purchase so I purchased a bank owned property for a deal that was right for me (now waiting for my first time home owner rebate check). Location mow is N. Central Idaho, doing what I enjoy, but will always remember the lighting bugs on those warm Iowa summer nights and will return for a visit again someday.

[loghousenut]

Iowaguy, My wife and I took the class in 1989. We are both getting really old and our memory is at that fuzzy stage. What we learned in class is still fresh enough that we are currently building the stoutest house in Grants Pass, Oregon. You'll want the mindset that you obtain in class to set it all in motion early enough that you won't have to undo too much. You'll sing the praises of our advice if you take the class at your earliest opportunity.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Our%20Home/Row710-27-09002.jpg

[Timberwolf]

I'd definately suggest you take class now, that'll give you plenty of time to plan and plan some more. Things will change after class. Don't worry about forgetting things, there's enough "corporate knowledge" stored up in these member forums that you don't have to worry about forgetting.
I'd also go ahead and thin your cedars, but I'd only cull the trees that weren't good for a building with, the crooked ones, the short frumpy ones, etc. Then I'd have them sawn in to 2x lumber and boards, stack and sticker them and let them air dry. Then you'll have all the dimensional lumber you'll need when ready to build.

[hawgdawg50]

I'm not a lumber engineer, but IME red cedar is too soft for 2X structural lumber. It'll be fine for the log walls, and if sawn into 1x can be good for siding, cabinets, etc. Just my 2 cents. And I'll acquiesce to anyone with letters after their name or different experience.

[dvb]

Like I said in my post - I do not want to sound rude or mean. It was just that your question was too open ended to answer. Now that you are saying that you want to thin your acreage, you have different goals in mind. Do what was suggested and thin the unusable trees now and then after you take the class you will be more knowledgeable about how to start your build and care for your logs. My wife and I took the class in 2006 and by constantly reading these forums, we keep up. It is like a constant refresher course since someone is in every stage of the process at all times and everybody is asking questions or giving advice.
Good luck on whatever course of action you decide to take.

[StressMan79]

Hakwdawg,
sure, cedar aint the strongest wood. you said two places it could be used, since it has to do little more than carry its own wieght. anyway, Most structural items in a log home are log, so 2x's generally aren't load bearing. There are exceptions, but I assume if I had a whole stack of cedar lumber sitting around, I'd find a place for it.

-Peter

[Bronco]

I used alot of cedar 2x6 decking, 3x15 -3x12 windows, door jams
<a href="http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp114/paka-nama/?action=view&amp;current=006-2.jpg">http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp114/paka-nama/?action=view&amp;current=006-2.jpg</a>