log size

[bill sanders]

i"m starting to stockpile logs in preparation of my build in the near future.what size logs should i be looking for?

[Shark]

As big as you can find. :)

[2 cents]

i requested logs with no smaller than 9.5" tops.
many would suggest bigger, and a few have built with smaller.

what i have now are a couple 13" tops, a few 12" tops, a few more 11" tops, lots of 10" tops, and lots of just under 10" tops.
most of my logs are about 44' long with minimal taper. the biggest bottoms on the biggest logs are about 17"-18", and the smallest bottoms are about 12"-13".

i think my logs are about average size amongst those building here.

[cheyenne]

2 cents, where is 'around here'?

[2 cents]

by here, i meant LHBA-ers on this forum!

but our building site is physically located in Washington state, and so of course we are building with Douglas Fir.
:)
my husband and i currently live near Portland, OR, right now, and drive up a couple hours to WA every weekend.


2 cents

[rocklock]

If you are building a 16 to 18 foot wall and you tops are 10 to 11 then you will have about 14 rows.
If you do the same thing with 12 and 13's you will have as few as 10 rows.
Build with as big of a log as you can find and be able to stack them with your equipment.
Best of luck

[2 cents]

you will have less chinking (and chinking nails) to put in, the fewer rows of logs you have.

[RPM]

Looked over your photobook. Great pics! What size logs are you using at the butt end? What's the size of your box? Just curious. It looks similar to what I have in mind. I'm signed up for the December class and can't wait!

[rocklock]

Some of my butt ends are 19" but I built with 10 and 11 at the top which means the bottoms were about 15 to 16. My box is 30 by 30 and about 33 feet tall - which is way too tall for my age.
Note; in general log home have two or three windows and doors per wall. I have 21 doors, windows and sky lights which includes French doors, a front door with two side lites and a large basement door that I can drive my tractor in....
I will also post more of the chinking and cleaning pictures...
I also have made a small video that I may post on youtube or on facebook, that shows 4 years of building in about 14 minutes.. Its very cool...

[RPM]

Thanks for all the info! Your home looks great! I like the side lites on your front door and skylights are a great idea. As I mentioned, I'm signed up for the December class and can't wait! I've got all my logs cut and off the ground for now. I have doug fir for walls (12 - 14" at butt ends) and huge cedars for the ridge posts, ridge beams and entry. It's all I know at this point, still have a lot to learn.

[rocklock]

Your ahead of about 99% of your fellow students...

[scott7712]

hey shark. i was wondering how what the diameter of your average log was at the skinny end.

[Shark]

Wall logs butts were mostly 12", tips mostly 9".
Next time I hope to find something about twice the size.

They still hold the heat in better than the old place we rented, but it sure was alot of rows to chink.

[gonehunting]

Class of 6/27/09
I was wondering from the 33' height of your box what is the actual height of your log walls

[rocklock]

about 17.6'

[gonehunting]

Class of 6/27/09
I see you wound up with 10-11 tops and 15-16 butts, When you were dealing with your logger what specifications did you give him for log size, I guess the bottom line is did you get what you were asking for. I'm sorta getting myself ready to find out first hand, and thought you might through in some more thoughts on the subject.

[rocklock]

I have recounted how I got my logs...
http://www.loghomebuilders.org/getting-logs-washington
Just a quick review. I was able to use 22 logs from my own property. I bought 51 from a lumber mill about 45 likes away. There were two piles of logs 10 and 11's (shown in my photobucket) --12 and 13's. I looked at the 13's and I didn't know how I could possibly lift them. Another log home builder that I helped stack his logs has mostly 10 and 11's so that what I went with.

Best of luck

[LogLover]

Heyrocklock - I read this and you referenced you might do a youtube thing on your build. Did you ever do so? I searched but didn't find it - then again I been known to miss alot of things. lol

[johan]

My logger can only find me 60 red pine with 11" butts (some 12") 3 ft of the ground. If you had to o your hiuse again, would yipou still use 12" butt logs?

[btwalls]

A bit small. With 11" butts your tips are going to be small. My smallest tip was 12" with most of my butts around 14-15"

Brad

[loghousenut]

Just match the butt size to the butt size and you'll be fine.

For perspective, the dog is a four year old Newfoundland.


http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Our%20Home/3rdbigButts9-8-09001.jpg

[johan]

Wall logs butts were mostly 12", tips mostly 9".
Next time I hope to find something about twice the size.

They still hold the heat in better than the old place we rented, but it sure was alot of rows to chink.

If you had to do it again, would you go with thicker logs? I habe got similiar sized red pine logs available in my area,

[rreidnauer]

LHN,
At first glance, I was trying to figure out why the dog is sitting on the person's back and what's got his attention, but then a more looming question came to mind, Why do you have a picture of someone's backside? :confused::p

[loghousenut]

LHN,
At first glance, I was trying to figure out why the dog is sitting on the person's back and what's got his attention, but then a more looming question came to mind, Why do you have a picture of someone's backside? :confused::p

I'm a connoisseur of pork-butted self portraits.

[johan]

I've got a source for 14" dbh southern yellow pine and eastern white pine, white pine ($4.5 p/lf) is almost twice the money than yellow pine ($75 p/ton). give the choice, which one would you go for? Is white pine worth the extra money? Thanks

[jasonfromutah]

I'm not sure there is ever a perfect scenario for logs. Log availability, Price, Size, type of logs etc... all play into factor. If I was to build a second log home, I would try to get 30 Dia tops! But, if these logs cost several thousand more dollars than say logs with 20 inch tops, I would deal with the smaller logs.

Go with what fits your $$ situation. My logs were about 15-16" average dia.

[Xsmoker]

My mind keeps saying to self - if I only go up 8' for a single floor and loft above --- wouldn't using the "biggest" look a bit goofy? I've seen many smaller maybe 25 x 30ish builds but never seen a one that didn't have at least 5-6 minimum, usually 7-8 logs - hard to envision a smaller home with just 4-5. Anyone else share same thought?

[Xsmoker]

I'm a connoisseur of pork-butted self portraits.

Those are some of the straightest logs I've seen LHN. They all that nice?

[Cruiser]

LOL

LHN...tell Xsmoker about your super straight logs :)

[dvb]

Xsmoker,
Our cabin has 13' walls and is 24 X 24. We only have 11 courses of logs, I don't think ours looks funny. I know you are supposed to have an even number of courses, but our worked out fine with 11. I just had to do a lot of figuring to make it come out right.

[Xsmoker]

Xsmoker,
Our cabin has 13' walls and is 24 X 24. We only have 11 courses of logs, I don't think ours looks funny. I know you are supposed to have an even number of courses, but our worked out fine with 11. I just had to do a lot of figuring to make it come out right.

Yours looks great and I have looked at the pics you have many times.
I was thinking more like 4-5 courses on an 8' wall - or about 22" diameter on a smaller house. Somehow I envision the roof extending out 3-4' on a 10/12 roof and only seeing 3-4 from afar. If mine looks like your I'd be thrilled. Great job on the build.
I'm missing something on LHN I guess - must be elsewhere in photo's? The pic here looks tighter than some copes. lol

[Xsmoker]

meant 22" diameter logs....

[loghousenut]

Those are some of the straightest logs I've seen LHN. They all that nice?

Xsmoker, We had to use one or two logs that were a bit imperfect.

This was the first sill log that we set.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Wow/1stsilllog8-26-09005-1.jpg


And, yes, there is a gap or two here and there. We like it anyway.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Wow/Rooffinally035.jpg

[jrdavis]

I've got a source for 14" dbh southern yellow pine and eastern white pine, white pine ($4.5 p/lf) is almost twice the money than yellow pine ($75 p/ton). give the choice, which one would you go for? Is white pine worth the extra money? Thanks

Johan -- All,

I spoke with the Log guy in Indiana and here's what he's got.

White pine Starting to cut this week and finished in april.
35 cents /mBF (basically $166 a log) for 40 foot logs 12 inch tops minimum. (17-22 inch butts).
This is Loaded.
He has a trucker that is wanting $4.50 to Omaha (due to having to dead head it all the way back to Terre Haute, Ind.

He's got a lot of trees, he says.

Poplar -- We didn't talk too much about because he wanted $.68 cents /mBF.
JD

[Kick Forward]

yes this isn't the member side so it's alright if I ask a newb question. :p

What does mBF stand for? Metric board foot?

[loghousenut]

You're doing everything right so far. MBF is an old logging term that can either mean "my best friend" or the latin "magnus blandior frustra esse".

You can look up the latin here... http://www.math.ubc.ca/~cass/frivs/latin/latin-dict-full.html


http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Our%20Home/The%20ridgepole/P1000696.jpg

[Cruiser]

Kick Forward,

The "M" stands for "thousands", ie 2 MBF = 2000 board feet

[Kick Forward]

lhn, your large, caressing mistake? seems like an odd way to price things. you're having too much fun building your log home!

Thanks Cruiser. Though that's confusing what jrdavis said... $.35 for a thousand board feet? Maybe for one board foot? How many thousand board feet are in a log? I can't imagine there's even one.

[BenB]

LHN - isn't that called log "charactor" :D

We got stinking walloped the last few days with snow and freezing rain. I've seen so many snapped trees in spots it makes one want to cry. Most in the middle or so - maybe 15-18' on either side good for a B&P style so it's a damkit shame to see. Lots of firewood .... :(
Hope all in MN managed to not lose trees on your lots. Easy to rebuild and replace everything fairly easily EXCEPT Mother's efforts.

[BenB]

1 ft × 1 ft × 1 in
12 in × 12 in × 1 in

PITA to do it like this eh!
Here they use LF mostly on logs - been calling around myself. Prices vary but anywhere from $120 to $170 a log...14-18" butts, 35-40' lengths, red and white pine. Some are even "rotary peeled" - never seen what one looks like when that's done. Thought I would this week but we socked in bad on secondary and logging roads for awhile with snow. Delivery cost not addressed yet ... not sure what lot I am getting for sure. My lot is out is all I know for sure

[loghousenut]

OK, so you caught me! Prepare yourself... It gets worse on the members side.


Yes, in some circles MBF can mean "thousand board feet". Not very poetic in my mind. You're correct that .35 would be the dollar amount for one board foot. You move the decimal point back and forth to change quantity and cost accordingly.

I get confused easily and whenever I am around folks talking price of trees or lumber I try to stand back and let everyone else control the conversation. It works if there are three or four people doing the talking, but when it is just me and one other person it seems that conversation lags. The problem for me is that darned decimal point. No matter where the decimal really is... I usually visualize it somewhere else.

I understand trees to a certain extent and I can sometimes understand dimensional lumber. With help and plenty of time, I can force things to look square, even when they are not. I get confused by the numbers and I frequently misquote myself about figures and measurements. Somehow I manage but please don't ask me how many board feet are in a particular log.

You think I'm joking but I'm not! What I'm trying to say is that if I can build a log home with my own hands, YOU can do it also.

[BenB]

^^^^^^^^^ whatever the heck LHN said ! That's it in a nutshell it is ....;) :D

[edkemper]

This might help?

538

[Kick Forward]

Yeah it's making sense. What I love is how easily so far I can picture the steps of building a log home, and it's not so dimensionally perfect. It takes a lot of stress away being that I'm new to construction. You can't be anal about dimensions when you're using logs that bow and whatnot.

[BoFuller]

You can't be anal about dimensions when you're using logs that bow and whatnot.

My wife keeps telling me that I'm going to have a problem with that! When she wants to hang a picture, I require that we get out the level, the plumb bob, tape measure, square, setup the tripod and shoot the angles, adjust for humidity and elevation, etc. It's not that bad, really.

[edkemper]

Do you have to adjust any for the rotation of the earth? :rolleyes:

[BoFuller]

Do you have to adjust any for the rotation of the earth? :rolleyes:

That's a good one Ed. I'll have to remember that. But I do check the local tide report to estimate the gravitational pull of the moon. :)

[John W]

Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with a Sharpee, and cut it with a chainsaw!

[edkemper]

Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with a Sharpee, and cut it with a chainsaw!

You fit in well here. <smile>

[BoFuller]

So I'm planning on my logs having tops of 20" and the bottoms may be 30". I am going to the Stihl dealer tomorrow to look for the chainsaw my wife said I could get. :) My question is; is the 261 with a 20" bar big enough to trim that big of a log or do I need something bigger? What say you Bro LHN? Or others who have big logs?

[cooper]

I don't have big logs yet, but I've spent plenty of time with chainsaws, and I can say that a 20" bar is as big as you want to go on the 261. Keep in mind a 20" bar can cut a 40" log, but if you want a perfectly cut 30" overdangle with a 20" bar you better be good. Guess it depends how anal you are about the details. Personally if I was planning on cutting lots of 30" logs I'd run a 441 magnum with a 32" bar. Plenty of power to cut through just about anything, and you can run a 20" bar for lighter work...or better yet get both! I have a 261 that I use the majority of the time for most tasks and it's a great all around saw. However, I've been looking for a deal on a 441 because with the bigger stuff the 261 can be kind of slow. I also really want a 192 for limbing. I was limbing all afternoon today with the 261 and I am completely spent from holding that thing over my head. Whichever way you go, I can't say enough good things about Stihl, they are by far the best in my opinion.

[ottodog]

IMO if you're only going to have one saw, and won't be doing a lot of limbing, I'd go with a larger saw. Maybe the 362 if you're buying new. You could run a 25" bar on it and it's only a couple pounds heavier. The 261 will work real hard on a 30" log. Of course I have 9000' of elevation to deal with also, which robs a ton of power from any combustion engine.

I personally have a 440 I use for felling/bucking, and a 310 for limbing. I'm with cooper though, even the 310 gets a little heavy after a day of limbing.

Can't go wrong with a Stihl, they make a great saw. I wouldn't rule out used saws either, if you keep your eye's open you can find some great deals. Just check the compression before you buy. I picked up my 440 for $300 and the guy had just had it rebuilt a year earlier.

[loghousenut]

Bro Bo,

You will eventually end up with at least two saws. It would be a different story if you were working with smaller logs or were really poor but I don't think you are either of those. I think you oughta have one saw that is almost too big and one saw that is not too small. Trust me, you'll use them both, and you'll wonder how you could do it with only one of them.

My main two are an old Stihl 026 with a 24" bar and a Stihl 046 with a 32" bar. I use them both a lot can hardly imagine doing the job with only one of them. Mine are both old saws and I don't know what the modern equivalent would be. Find a real saw shop that makes you feel like they're not gonna cheat you too much and trust them at least half way. If I were planning on two saws, I would be sure that they were both the same brand. I have had Huskies and Stihls and love them both. Where you live there may be a definite preference and that will enter into the decision.

You will never regret extra horsepower.

BONUS ADVICE... I have my Stihls set up to run the same pitch and style of chain. I like it that way. One size file and if I had to I could run the shorter bar on the bigger saw.

[BoFuller]

Bro Bo,

You will eventually end up with at least two saws. It would be a different story if you were working with smaller logs or were really poor but I don't think you are either of those. I think you oughta have one saw that is almost too big and one saw that is not too small. Trust me, you'll use them both, and you'll wonder how you could do it with only one of them.


I'm so poor I can't even pay attention.
How about if I ordered a 261 with a 16" bar and a 441 with a 25"?

[cooper]

That'd be pretty good, but I'd do the 32" bar on the 441 if you're planning on 30" logs.

[loghousenut]

I'm so poor I can't even pay attention.
How about if I ordered a 261 with a 16" bar and a 441 with a 25"?


Your avatar hints of great wealth.

I like Cooper's idea.

What did the saw shop suggest? hahah

[BoFuller]

Here are some logs from a logger I am talking to. He says they are dead Spruce - old growth. He says the ones he has in mind for me are still standing but are still under 10 feet of snow. The ones still standing also have no bark. Is this good, as in no peeling? Or are these too old? What kind of damage would happen if they stood too long? Would they be fine if I sanded them?

[loghousenut]

Thump 'em with a hammer. Make firewood and look at the cuts. No rot is what you're looking for.

Be sure to get extras just in case. I wouldn't want them after10 months on the ground but a year or three standing dead should only make them better.

It seems like everyone wants to sand their logs these days. I don't know... I kinda like how they look just laying there naked. I guess that says more about me than I'd like to admit.

[jrdavis]

Like LHN said -- thump them with a hammer.

The nice thing about them is they will be 80% dry, shrunk to size and you'll probalby be able to the 50-60 trees 40 foot long on a truck.
2 loads and you'll be set.
Hope it works out for you.

JD

[LogLover]

I'd love to find standing deads that tall ... or even down if stacked. Just the savings in weight makes me drool --- all else being equal. We had some rotten weather here and quite a few old dead pines came down. I thought oh boy.....heavy work ahead. They blew me away by being so light, all but one. That suckers was heavy...and full of rot.
Nice looking logs - even better if the price is decent.
Good luck

[BoFuller]

I'm so poor I can't even pay attention.
How about if I ordered a 261 with a 16" bar and a 441 with a 25"?

Just picked them up from the Stihl dealer during lunch. Can't wait to try them out this weekend when I head up to the Ranch.

[StressMan79]

OK, so you caught me! Prepare yourself... It gets worse on the members side.


Yes, in some circles MBF can mean "thousand board feet". Not very poetic in my mind. You're correct that .35 would be the dollar amount for one board foot. You move the decimal point back and forth to change quantity and cost accordingly.

I get confused easily and whenever I am around folks talking price of trees or lumber I try to stand back and let everyone else control the conversation. It works if there are three or four people doing the talking, but when it is just me and one other person it seems that conversation lags. The problem for me is that darned decimal point. No matter where the decimal really is... I usually visualize it somewhere else.

I understand trees to a certain extent and I can sometimes understand dimensional lumber. With help and plenty of time, I can force things to look square, even when they are not. I get confused by the numbers and I frequently misquote myself about figures and measurements. Somehow I manage but please don't ask me how many board feet are in a particular log.

You think I'm joking but I'm not! What I'm trying to say is that if I can build a log home with my own hands, YOU can do it also.

Michael: "I must've put a decimal point in the wrong place or something. Shit, I always do that. I always mess up some mundane detail."
Peter: "Oh! Well, this is not a mundane detail, Michael!"
Michael: "Hey, quit getting pissed at me. Alright? This was all your idea, bleephole!"
Peter: "Alright, okay, alright, let's try not to get pissed off at each other. Alright? Let's just calm down, let's try to figure this thing out together."

http://www.gotwavs.com/php/sounds/?id=gog&media=WAVS&type=Movies&movie=Office_Space&quote=mundanedetail.txt&file=mundanedetail.wav

[Tom Featherstone]

Just picked them up from the Stihl dealer during lunch. Can't wait to try them out this weekend when I head up to the Ranch.

I've got the 261 pro with a 3/8 chain and 18" bar a 20" might be pushing it with 3/8". I also picked up a 362 this past fall w/20". I"ll probably pick up the 25" bar when we begin our build. For the most part we don't have really big stuff to mess with here. Fresh gas and use the Stihl mix never a problem with my saws starting. When I picked up the 362 they said if I use the new synthetic mix it would extend my warranty... I use it anyway. I also have a 180.... Linda's saw.

Fresh premium gas is the key. The mechanics tell me to mix up only what I'm going to use within a month. Run a couple of gallons into your truck before filling your mix jug up to get the lower octane out of the fuel hose. They're having a lot of problems with 2 cycle's today due to the ethanol in the fuel and EPA regs for bench testing. My 261 would hardly run until we lost the protective caps over the adjustments screws. Also keep track of your spark arrestor in the muffler they clog up pretty fast and will cause your saws to not run so good.

One safety tip... Don't put your body in the same plane as the bar. It's a common mistake that get a lot of people hurt every year if the chain happens to come off or the bar kicks back. I see people all the time here that have used saws their entire life for firewood standing over the cut/bar. I'm so bold to point out to them this mistake, I'd rather have them be mad at me then to be applying First aid or worse. I've worked with several pros through the years that have all told me this bit of info so we can see another day.

You'll be pleased with your saws. The 441 and the 440 mag are awesome I've run them both. If I was piece cutting for a living I'd own one. I'm not so sure about the Husky's anymore, now that they're selling in the big box stores.... like anything else, they're building them for a price point. My question is, what are they leaving out of them?

Did you get a helmet and chaps to go with Bo?

[BoFuller]

Oh yeah, I already had chaps, ear protection, helmet, steel toe boots, and face mask. I have a couple little saws from Home Depot that I used last year. I just figured it's time to get serious. Thanks for the tip about the same plane. I hadn't thought about it.

[rreidnauer]

I'm not so sure about the Husky's anymore, now that they're selling in the big box stores.... like anything else, they're building them for a price point. My question is, what are they leaving out of them?
Ugh, not this argument again.

Stihl saws are available at my local Ace Hardware, but that point aside, you can't buy Husqvarna pro grade saws at a big box store. Just like Stihl, they make a homeowner line and a professional line.

I would take either equally in the pro line.

[Tom Featherstone]

Ugh, not this argument again.

Stihl saws are available at my local Ace Hardware, but that point aside, you can't buy Husqvarna pro grade saws at a big box store. Just like Stihl, they make a homeowner line and a professional line.

I would take either equally in the pro line.

Thanks Rod. No argument here. I own other Husky equipment.. Brush cutter and lawn tractor. My Husky dealer usually keeps me informed. I only ended up with Stihl's because I also know the people that own the Stihl shop here. So I would assume though that the Big Box stores have their own model numbers then? Like they've done with appliances, every store has it's own model number so they can guarantee the best price? What I do know is Electrolux Corp bought out most of the rest of the chainsaw industry and the Husky name gets it's best stuff inside and no matter which brand side you fall upon doesn't matter to me. Buying a good saw does make a difference.

Bo's wife should take a video of him the first time he runs those new saws just to see the expression on his face after. Good to hear you have all the safety stuff Bo. I'll never forget the look on my friend Steve up here the first time he ran a 440mag. It actually scared him a bit because of the HP and he felt the saw pushing him. This is a guy that cut all his firewood for over 27yrs straight and has used every "lesser" saw made through those years. He still has his first old beast that was given to him that he used to clear his property for his first home.

I think the whole point here is buy a good saw if you plan on using one on a regular basis. My recommendation is to buy the best you can afford. Buy one from somebody local to you that you feel comfortable with because at some point they will need service and you might need their skilled advice. Use fresh fuel and use the mix from the manufacturer of your saw. Buy the manufacturer's replacement bar & chain when replacing. (hugh difference in after market bars) at least for Stihl. Sharp chain... Like it's new out of the box every time you use it, means less work for you and the saw. Some of this is old stuff for most of us. I do try to keep in mind while posting that we have new people here all the time. We weren't all born with a chainsaw in our hands.

That reminds me... I've got one more on my list. I like the idea of an electric one for window & door cut outs as taught in class.

[FishingAddict]

That reminds me... I've got one more on my list. I like the idea of an electric one for window & door cut outs as taught in class.

This is a twist I'd never have suspected to hear. ;)
I just have to ask this --- an electric usually has a pretty small bar.

How the heck does that work on a 24"-30" log without cutting from both sides and then increasing the likelyhood of making an untrue cut??? Foget waiting for the class - this one I gotta hear now! :cool:

[jrdavis]

quick and easy answer---

Not many get logs 24-30 inches. :)
I have an electric with an 18" bar, but it won't work for my logs (that aren't coming till april)
because they have 20 inch tops..... so I'll use the Stihl with a 28" bar on it.
JD

[Tom Featherstone]

This is a twist I'd never have suspected to hear. ;)
I just have to ask this --- an electric usually has a pretty small bar.

How the heck does that work on a 24"-30" log without cutting from both sides and then increasing the likelyhood of making an untrue cut??? Foget waiting for the class - this one I gotta hear now! :cool:

Sorry Fishing! Put it on your list of questions for class... JD already answered part of it.

[WornOut]

JD - who the heck manufacters one with an 18" bar?
Think the biggest I have ever seen was a 16" - had one at one point and it must have been an amp eater as I always blew circuit breakers. That was years back so maybe more effiecient today but an 18" bar boggles my mind too.
Tom - when I read your reply to FA I chuckled and then scratched me noggin' a bit. Guess this no answer secrecy thing kind of troubles me. See many well intended questions that get a similar response. What's the reason for this? No harm intended with this question so don't take exception to it. One of the things that I can't get my hands around is all

[jrdavis]

It is a Craftsman that came with a 16" and I think I bought a poulan bar and chain.....
Its been years ago and all markings are off it now.

Don't let the secrecy bug ya....
there's just a fine line in what we've agreed to say/not to say..... we're just not sure where that is sometimes :)
No biggy. Ask away and we'll let you know when we're close to the line.
JD

[loghousenut]

WornOut,

Secrecy. I know why you call it secrecy but it doesn't seem like secrecy from where I am.

One answer leads to five questions and twelve more answers. In class they teach things in an order that forces it all to make sense. Suddenly sssooooooooooo many questions become moot and nobody has to waste their brain cells worrying about them. The muddled mess clears and everyone kinda lines up on the same page and the real progress starts to happen. The class works. If I could find my original notes from class and mail them to you, you'd burn them and call me up to chew me out about wasting your time with all that scribbled dribble.

The next step is to go to the "member's only" side of this forum and build on the knowledge base that happened in class. The system works and we all seem to like it and respect it.

Over the years I have participated in several internet forums. I have never been around a bunch of folks like these LHBAers who seem to control themselves with grace and aplomb, with such sparse guidance from the forum moderators. It really is just as it seems... A bunch of folks who went to class to learn how to build their own log home with their own hands, helping the rest of the bunch build their own log home with their own hands.

Once you are on the member's side you'll see where the real forum support happens. There'll be no secrets.

PS... Did you ever stop to think that Tom just might not know the answer to every question? We all bluff sometimes.



hahah

[WornOut]

well said I guess...frankly you guys spend a lot of time on this side that is a tribute individually. For the sheer number that take class it seems maybe 10-15 of you are here often helping us out , another 20-30 drop in time to time and most .... "poof"
so thanks.
respect what you say and want to do the class when it fits. sooner the better

[sdart]

For most of us that "poof" means we are hard at work on our houses and spend all our forum time in the member's section. I know that I never even read the public side until relatively recently, since I was looking only for practical guidance on the build. We're not all as big-hearted and public-spirited as loghousenut... You'll find lots of people posting on the member's side who you will have never seen in the public section.

By the way, you live in a beautiful area! There is something about that enormous lake that is completely awe-inspiring-- it's a living presence.

[BoFuller]

I only ended up with Stihl's because I also know the people that own the Stihl shop here. My recommendation is to buy the best you can afford. Buy one from somebody local to you that you feel comfortable with because at some point they will need service and you might need their skilled advice.

Good advice. I let the chain get too loose and it came off and got destroyed as it jammed. I took it back today to my friendly rep and they replaced it, cleaned it up, and said "no charge"! Now that's what I'm talking about. :cool:

[loghousenut]

Now if you'll buy your oil, chains, and bars there and drop an extra $10 on some little goodie that the owner tries to talk you into, you'll probably keep him in business til you break it again. Be aware that if you try to save $20 by going online instead of letting your local guy make enough for rent, he'll have to make rent by hiring a cheaper mechanic. There's nothing more useless than a cheap saw mechanic.

I don't know why I'm telling you this. You seem to be spending your share of the inheritance fast enough for both of us! ha

PS... You two really are flying along ain't you.

[jrdavis]

JD - who the heck manufacters one with an 18" bar?
Think the biggest I have ever seen was a 16" - had one at one point and it must have been an amp eater as I always blew circuit breakers. That was years back so maybe more effiecient today but an 18" bar boggles my mind too.
Tom - when I read your reply to FA I chuckled and then scratched me noggin' a bit. Guess this no answer secrecy thing kind of troubles me. See many well intended questions that get a similar response. What's the reason for this? No harm intended with this question so don't take exception to it. One of the things that I can't get my hands around is all


WornOut --
I just received a sportsmans guide magazine and while flipping through the pages I ran across this:
RYOBI 18" Electric Chainsaw.
It even comes with a case.

$89.97
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=918429

[Peach1956]

Thanks for the great detailed pics... really like your place.

[Tom Featherstone]

WornOut --
I just received a sportsmans guide magazine and while flipping through the pages I ran across this:
RYOBI 18" Electric Chainsaw.
It even comes with a case.

$89.97
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=918429

WornOut,

Sthil makes an electric chainsaw MSE 220 that can be fitted with a 20" bar no secrets here. Sorry I didn't respond sooner. JD & LHN covered me again and I'm sure it won't be the last.

Some of the stuff we members learned in class we don't spread out into the open internet because every member paid to take the class. There is no secret hand shake or oath we signed. It is out of respect to those that started and continue this organization and to it's members. My understanding on some of the methods they use to teach is to make you think. There are a lot of steps involved in building any building and hurdles that we all have to overcome through the process. Fortunately, we that have taken the class have the "members forum" as our backup or to help us over those many hurdles you encounter during a build.

I was once on the "public only" side, lurked around for about 2yrs before even signing in with a screen name to ask a question. I still had reservations up until about the first hour of class, then it finally kicked in that this is for real and never looked back.

Those of us that contribute in the Public forum do so mostly because we feel a great gift was given to us way beyond the cost of the class and wish to return what was given to us and to continue to learn from others. One thing I have learned... is how little I actually do know.

"You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink" we've all heard. Fred Bear added " It's your job to make him thirsty!" He stated at one of his sales rep meetings. And I'll add another that a young Gal from Kentucky told me recently.. "If you put enough Salt in his oats, he'll get pretty dam thirsty".

Good Luck WornOut! Hope to see you on the members side so you too can add into this mixed bag of Nuts! Now if I could only get my cousins out West to refrain from spreading the family laundry all over the place here people might think we're a little more respectful! Auntie never did buy the story of how clumsy LHN was falling down the stairs Bo!:)

[Peach1956]

Hey just for you nostalgic types here's a video about moving logs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=qvO3qsmeAps#!

[loghousenut]

Horse logging is cool. That video shows a team that is not used to working every day with those guys. With practice, and that logging arch, they could handle a much larger log in fairly rugged terrain.

Here's how most of us do it nowadays. The right trucker can peel a lot of bark for you if he's not careful.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Our%20Home/th_P1000844.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Our%20Home/?action=view&current=P1000844.mp4)