What kind of logs?

[logguy]

I'm attending the Dec '09 class but I'm so excited I just can't wait to start asking my questions--so here goes:

I've got a few acres here in Mid Missouri--lots of very tall, larger-than-dinner-plate-around white and post oaks, and, of course a lot of blackjack oaks. I also have a lot of Hickory trees too that are very tall as well.

Can I build with Oaks?

Is it necessary to build with the same kind of oaks?

Can I build with Hickory?

Is it necessary to build with either oak or hickory, or can I build with both?

How do I dry them? Is it necessary to dry them? Is it a pain in the butt to dry them?

No shrinkage--REALLY?!

What's the secret to stacking/securing them together--what's the method? Can someone explain this to me or do I have to wait for the class? Is rebar used to secure them together? :(

Sorry if I have asked questions that can't be answered in this public forum. I noticed that there weren't any posts in the member posting area--is that because, even though I'm a member, I haven't taken the class yet?

Thanks and I greatly look forward to attending in December!!

John

[panderson03]

all will be revealed in class and any post class questions can be answered in the members section.

yeah the reason you can't see anything in the members section right now is because you haven't been to the class.

I think Skip once said the best kind of logs to build with are the ones you have!!

not sure butt and pass would work well with oak (the oaks on our property are big around but aren't very straight!)

yup when you build butt and pass, you don't have to dry them first AND while there is some shrinking, there's no settling.

before the class, you sure can learn a heck of a lot by just reading these forums!~

welcome and enjoy the class

[logguy]

Are you saying that butt and pass won't work well with oaks because they usually aren't straight? Is that the reaason? *Mine ARE straight! Can I mix and match log types using butt and pass as long as they are straight and the diameters stay relatively the same at either end?

*Just let me know if I need to shut up and stop asking questions at this point--it's just that it's like I'm on drugs all of a sudden after registering for class! It's going to be a long 2+ months!!

[dgc]

I know how you feel, Logguy. I'm registered for the Vegas class, and it's still a few weeks away. I can tell you this - read EVERYTHING on the public section of the forums. Also read EVERYTHING in the articles archive on the main webpage. You will find lots of information that will answer most of your initial questions.

My experience has been that the general questions (like those you ask) are easily answered in the public area. The class (and members area) will apparently answer all the other questions and those you don't know to ask yet, but will have to ask later. I've been very patient and content with the information in the public area, simply because it's nearly impossible to exhaust those resources in less than a month. It would take at least a month (in my humble opinion) of steady reading and contemplation to absorb just the public info. At that point, I've found that my other questions are those that are not as pressing for my immediate satisfaction, but are important in the planning and building phase AFTER the class.

So, that's a lot of unsolicited advice to say - yes, stop asking questions for a bit. The members won't give any answers that are members-only answers. BUT READ READ READ READ READ the entire forum and articles pages. That will keep you busy for some time and answer MANY of your questions. THEN, come back here and ask any remaining questions, if they don't delve into members-only topics. That should keep you going until the class in December. Also, I've found that I have plenty of entertainment by looking at the webpages for all the students who are currently in the process of building their homes. Watching someone's photo depiction of their experience is extremely valuable. I've seen details about how to tackle certain problems, unique design ideas, etc.

Good luck with the class and the wait! Make the most of the delay with lots of reading and research, and the time will go by faster than you can imagine.

DGC

[WillandHelen]

White oaks are great! They are really rot resistant and iff you use whole logs then the big checks will be less of a problem. If you are using white and red, put the reds higher up to keep them dry. You should def take the class, but get your trees down asap and seal the ends. This will make them less heavy and you can cull the twisters. Boy Oak is sooo heavy though! Good luck!

[logguy]

I'm registered for the class in December and I don't really have much of a clue yet but I'm wondering whether I should start falling trees now. I wonder how many I should fall for a 40'x40' structure? How do I estimate height standing on the ground without climbing them? Is it OK to leave the bark on some of them throughout the fall/winter/spring? Should I build a "log drying rack"--and if so, what the heck does one look like?! I'd like to start putting what I learn in class to work right when I get back, but that's mid december and the trees should be cut now, right? Should I wait or should I build a drying rack and start cutting now?

[patrickandbianca]

You should definately wait. Whats three months anyway? I can promise that you will lose nothing by waiting, but might lose some wasted hard work if you dont.

Patrick

[rckclmbr428]

wait, the sap will be down in the winter, which will make the trees lighter, as well there will be no leaves so you can be sure to pick winners!

[loghousenut]

Even if you had this thing all planned and ready to go, it's not the best time to fall your timber. Cut in the winter or spring while the tree is dormant. You'll learn why along with everything else. Stash some cash. Read a book or two. Draw your ideas into floorplans that will change and rechange. Heck, I could stand on my head til December. What's the big rush.... By the way, good name Logguy. We have an abundance of "rock" names and they were outnumbering the "log" names.

[Yuhjn]

Can I build with Oaks?

yes

Is it necessary to build with the same kind of oaks?

no

Can I build with Hickory?

yes

Is it necessary to build with either oak or hickory, or can I build with both?

You can build with both, although it might look a little odd. You'll probably want to mix the two together. The species of tree is not as important as size, taper, and straightness.

How do I dry them? Is it necessary to dry them? Is it a pain in the butt to dry them?

No need to dry them. You can, but it'll take about 2 years to fully cure and there is no reason to do so using LHBA methods.

No shrinkage--REALLY?!

The logs will shrink about their center. But the logs are pinned together by their center (rebar goes to the center of each lower log it's driven into). This means the wall height is based on the rebar, and not the diameter of the log. As logs shrink when they dry, your wall wont change height at all. The worst you will get, if you do it right, is a small gap at the top of each layer of chinking. This wont hurt your insulation at all and is inconsequential.

What's the secret to stacking/securing them together--what's the method? Can someone explain this to me or do I have to wait for the class? Is rebar used to secure them together? :(

The logs are pinned together with rebar, this will be explained in great detail in the class. This method is so strong people have built 30+ feet high, 50' walls, and had no problems whatsoever

Sorry if I have asked questions that can't be answered in this public forum. I noticed that there weren't any posts in the member posting area--is that because, even though I'm a member, I haven't taken the class yet?

You are not a member until you take the class. But after you have, you must have your forum membership enabled. Send an email to the webmaster and they will take care of it. After the class


John