Calculating builders rates

[XD_45]

What is the average going rate for having a log home constructed and how is that calculated? I'm talking small homes using 6"x8" D-logs. Are the rates for dried-in or turn key? Not sure if finish work is calculated separately or included? I have the opportunity to build a few small cabins but i'm not sure how to calculate it so it is fair and reasonable for everyone. Any help would be hugely appreciated. Thank you :)

[StressMan79]

We don't know. Maybe a few have looked into having a kit built, but evidently you have not read: http://www.loghomebuilders.org/warnings-about-kit-log-homes and the associated links. We want to build acutal logs, not milled and stacked timbers. There are many reasons not to build this way, one of which is that the tongues will suck in water by capillary action and rot off, in fairly short order. Try and find a kit that is 25+ years old and take a look at it. I have seen several BnP homes that are more than that age with virtually no maintenance that still look great and are completely structually sound.

Anyway, if you really want a kit, I suggest you get pricing details from a kit builder, they will be happy to tell you how much they charge!

-Peter

[XD_45]

Thank you Peter.
My understanding of a 'kit' is a pre-cut package, numbered and ready to be constructed like a large scale model. I made no mention of a 'Kit'.

I built my home from these exact logs, and it was by no means a kit. They were random length logs, cut and notched on site. A milled log hardly constitutes a kit, in and of itself.

Additionally, i was under the assumption that even though this site favors whole logs, their would be 'some' knowledge of milled logs as well.

It has always been my philosophy that if their is a weak link in a mechanical device, structure, or what have you, CORRECT IT, don't trash it.

The capillary action you speak of is easily overcome by simply applying the same material to the tongue, as you would to the ends of 'any' log. Apply stainable caulking to all horizontal seams and all corner notches at the butt & pass intersections. Applying a "high quality" wood preserving stain such as Weatherseal or similar quality is a must. The capillary action of milled logs draws these preservatives into the grain, whereas the slick surface of a peeled log does not.

This, in conjunction with the proper sealant between each course of logs as the home was built keeps moisture out in the first place. And, as with anything that stands the test of time, proper maintenance is key. Bad building practices by some builders does not make milled logs trash, by any means.
Most moisture problems are from improper overhangs, plants and trees to close to structure, inadequate distance between ground surface and first course of logs and splash back from decks, porches stairs ect.

A community such as this can benefit much more if comparisons are made in an educational manner as opposed to a "we only do it one way, go ask someone else" manner.

[StressMan79]

Sorry if I came across that way. I was just saying that we prefer one method. If you are sold on another, by all means go for it. I am dubious about some of the claims about your milled D-shaped logs, but I digress. I thought that the only place to get TnG D shaped logs was in a kit for a home. I have never seen them at HD or Lowes. Anyway, if you think you can fix the problems in the milled timbers, like I said, go for it. We only make suggestions. Some members (including me) go outside of these suggestions for reasons that are varied as the students. -Peter
[admin note below]
This thread was locked because it started to run afoul of out Terms of Service. Please let's keep it civil, and non-combative or argumentative -- and remember since you can't hear tone, or see facial expressions, it's easy to read something on the internet as being more 'stern' than it was intended.
For additional information on construction costs you might want to visit the following threads:
<a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/cost-building">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/cost-building</a>
<a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/cost-and-time">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/cost-and-time</a>
<a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/costs-build">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/costs-build</a>
<a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/building-realistic-budget-log-home">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/building-realistic-budget-log-home</a>
<a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/time-and-cost-expected">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/time-and-cost-expected</a>
<a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/average-labor-pricing-square-foot-dry">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/average-labor-pricing-square-foot-dry</a>
<a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/costs-and-expectations">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/costs-and-expectations</a>
You could also see our FAQs at <a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/faq/56">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/faq/56</a>
And check out a few real life examples in our Student Gallery:
<a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/sheri-debbies-log-home">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/sheri-debbies-log-home</a>
<a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/mike039s-log-cabin">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/mike039s-log-cabin</a>
<a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/low-cost-log-home">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/low-cost-log-home</a>
<a href="http://www.loghomebuilders.org/jeff-cooley039s-log-home">http://www.loghomebuilders.org/jeff-cooley039s-log-home</a>