Numbering Logs

[Tyler1]

Hey Fella's,

I'm moving my 2nd of 4 old dovetail log cabins/barns in Minnesota. This one is a story and a half, logs are carved to fit snug enough to skip chinking, and the roof and rafters are gone. I have to disassemble to move...a real bummer.

What is the best way to # the logs?

I have a barn monster 27 x 17, with huge logs and a ton of them are long, stacked in my yard right now. I didn't nukber the logs because it had huge gaps, I hope this doesn't cause a problem when I reassemble in the spring.

[StressMan79]

use numbers, not letters, as you'll likely have more than 26.

use a black crayon or some type of grease pencil that won't smudge too much and won't become illegible.

make a map. It doesn't really matter what order you number them so long as you have a record of where they go.

Take a hi-res photo of each detail (corner, etc) that you may want clarification on later. one CD of pics could save a lot of heartache later.

your barn may be a headache next year on reassembly. I don't know how to number once it is apart.

-Peter

[Timberwolf]

N1 (north 1)
S1 (south 1)
etc.

[Kola]

ehem....is this LHBA classified info being released? :)

Agent Kola

[mlr1968]

Attended Class March 25th/26th of 2006.
The only secret on LHBA is the initials FS. You will figure it out Kola ROFL!!

[rreidnauer]

N1 (north 1)
S1 (south 1)
etc.
I'd tack tags onto the logs instead of writing on them though. Perhaps all tags on the top, right end where the adjacent log fits over. That way, not only do you know where in the wall the log goes, but you'll also know it's correct orientation as well. (right side up and correct end where it belongs)

[JeffandSara]

Tyler (and Rod)--

We stapled on tags made out of freezer paper which we wrote on the non-glossy side. They lasted through a LONG building process (including rain and snow) and didn't damage or mar the log ends like lumber crayon or something like that could.

Sara

[Basil]

I agree with the tags. I used lumber crayons for my house, and in a couple of months the numbers were fading. If I hadn't known my logs so well, and catalogued them so well, I'd have not figured it all out. you can buy a bag of ear tags for livestock for a few dollars a bag. They never fade, they are tough to tear, and last forever. roofing nail through the hole in the top, one on each bottom corner, you'll always know your log.

[dvb]

I used these tags with a single galvanized nail through to eye. This way my tags are always right side up for ease of reading. As Basil says "they never fade and are very tough"!

[Timber]

A high school friend of mine/ his dad invented that ear tag. Then another Company was using it -- huge lawsuit--dont know what the end of the matter turned out like.

[Timber]

Nice home your building. On your forms for pour I noticed no rebar sticking up where the RPSL goes? Am i missing something? That looks like a simple foundation what was the cost and what labor did you do on the foundation?

[dvb]

Timber,
I am going to use 3 "L" brackets evenly spaced around the RPSLs to bolt them to the concrete pads. Simply drill holes in the concrete where you want the bracket and use an anchor bolt to hold it in place and lag into the RPSL. My wife and I did all of the labor necessary for this foundation and the dirt work. We just poured from the truck when we poured the footers and then used a pumper when we poured the walls. (As seen in the photos) Concrete was very expensive at $175 per yard. The lowest bid I got for the concrete work was about $20,000 without the ICFs.
Costs are as follows:
$1,375 for the ICFs
$ 250 for the wood braces and forms for the footer.
$1,225 for concrete in the footer
$2,075 for concrete in the walls
$ 800 for the pumper truck
$5,725 Total

[Timber]

The bracket question versus drilling a hole for rebar seems easier / is this method just as good as the rebar in the concrete pad for the RPSL? pros and cons to your bracket? That is just a stem wall with insulated crawl space/ Did you figure what a basement might of cost you? What size is your home 30x30 or 35x35?
What is your frost line depth and what state are you building in? That price is not bad at all. You dug your foundation --did you use a backhoe/
Heck in WY. I can get a foundation with a basement around 1400 sg ft walk out Insulated concrete for $20,000 . I am not sure on price for just a crawl-probably around 12,000. Have you ever done foundation work before?

[cntrydan]

I too am interested in how large your home is, and also, why the ICF's but evidently no basement.

Thanks

[Kola]

Why not just use spray paint to number logs?

Dean, You got some nice logs and your place looks great. Can I ask where did you get your logs at and at what cost? If you do not want to answer, I will understand. :)

Michael, I am stumped on the FS secret initials...you goober.

Kola-mota-rolla

[Basil]

Spray paint fades, gets covered with mud, etc. Tags, even covered in mud are readable.

[dvb]

Timber,
I wanted to use brackets because they are simpler for me. I can make them and I can drill concrete for the anchor bolts. I think the rebar method is simply easier and that is what the class teaches. (K.I.S.S.) This is just a 24' X 24' starter cabin for me and I did not want a basement to deal with. The frost line is 4 feet in the mountains of Colorado near Steamboat Springs. I dug the hole with my backhoe. I have done a lot of concrete work, but this is my first foundation, the inspector thought it was one of the best jobs he had seen. If you have more questions, get in the members section and I will provide my e-mail address.

ctrydan,
ICFs for two reasons, one I did not have to insulate the crawl space to have plumbing in it, two because I did not have to rent/buy the large forms for the walls. It gets very cold (-40 F) where the cabin is at almost 9,000 feet and I love winter sports.

Kola,
I got all of the logs off of my land and from a few neighbors. Paid nothing in money, just a lot of hard work.

Tyler1,
Sorry that I seem to have hijacked your thread.

[JeffandSara]

Hi, Kola--

Along with the problems Basil mentioned, spray painting log ends with numbers also forces you to cut that end (unless you want the numbers to show forever.... "for old time's sake". ) Sure, you wouldn't have to cut much; but if any of your logs are short, and/or you want to cut one end or another specifically to get the log to sit better/flatter/straighter, it's nice to have the option to use a log without any trimming and/or to cut whichever side is most advantageous. That's also why we choose removable tags over lumber crayon, etc.

If I remember Tyler's original question, since he's rebuilding an old structure (right?), he'd especially not want to mar his log ends and put himself in a position to need to trim them.

Sara :)

PS... Dean... wow! Congratulations so far!

[Tyler1]

Great idea with the ear tags. I can't use spray paint, the logs aren't going to be cut again or painted. Whoever assembled the logs must have carved them to fit together cause they aren't going to need chinking. This is 1 of the 4 I'm moving the other 3 will need to be chinked. I'll post some pic.'s here in a bit so you can all take a look.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to do some reasearch on the eartags right now.

http://www.antiquecabinsandbarns.com/photogallery.aspx Here is a site the has examples of the cabin style I'm moving. 2, 1.5 story and 2, 1 story cabins.