saw chain sharpeners

[tanderson]

I'm considering the purchase of an inexpensive (~$40) electric bench mount saw chain sharpener from Northern Tool. Does anyone have any experience with these? I've tried the manual bar mount type, but I was disappointed. I've had my chains sharpened at a shop ever since, but that is inconvenient and costly. Any advice would be great.

[rreidnauer]

The one strongly praised and recommended on Arboristsite.com is the $100 Item# 193020 at Northern Tool. It's a clone of the $330 Oregon model, and is said to be nearly as good. (a slight bit of slop reported in the angle adjustment, but them guys found a fix if it bothers ya) Save up to spend a little more, and watch for sales and coupons, as I've seen it below $80 in the past. You'll be glad you did, as you'll probably end up buying something else after spending dough on a $40 cheapy.

I had good luck with the manual Granberg Bar-Mount model. Works great out in the field for a quick touch up, but a bench grinder would be really nice at home. (it's on my list) The one thing you need to remember with the manual ones is, files wear out pretty quick, especially the cheapy ones, and need to be turned and replaced frequently. After all, it's hardened steel you're sharpening.

[GENE13]

The one strongly praised and recommended on Arboristsite.com is the $100 Item# 193020 at Northern Tool. It's a clone of the $330 Oregon model, and is said to be nearly as good. (a slight bit of slop reported in the angle adjustment, but them guys found a fix if it bothers ya) Save up to spend a little more, and watch for sales and coupons, as I've seen it below $80 in the past. You'll be glad you did, as you'll probably end up buying something else after spending dough on a $40 cheapy.

I had good luck with the manual Granberg Bar-Mount model. Works great out in the field for a quick touch up, but a bench grinder would be really nice at home. (it's on my list) The one thing you need to remember with the manual ones is, files wear out pretty quick, especially the cheapy ones, and need to be turned and replaced frequently. After all, it's hardened steel you're sharpening.

Northern Tool has it for $99.99 right now. I have that same sharpener,"it does come with an Oregon instruction book" it's does a great job, very fast and very precise. If you get one just remember when you lower the sharpening wheel onto the chain, all you want to do is just lightly touch the wheel to the chain. It only takes the slightest bump, or you'll grind through chains in a heartbeat............................. > :-)

ps. It has been one of my best buys

[chadfortman]

Look, listen and learn
When my mom got it for me it was only 35 bucks i think at harbor freight.
Rreidauer did you have the cheep one from harbor freight.
It orange and grey. i had more of a hard time setting the grinder up correct.
The chain keep raming into the cabinet. i got a short fuse on that kinda stuff.
I kinda of had hard time with it. i filed one chain the wrong angel becuse i didnt read.
So i threw it on the floor and after being madd.
i figured out how use a file correct.
You know a hand file does the job good for about 30 minutes i worked on my saw last week.
I said dam i figured it out and it wasent hard to do.
I think once i get allittle more time i might figure the grinding wheel.

[greenthumb]

Are those grinders adjustable to 0* for sharpening ripping chain?

[chadfortman]

Look, listen and learn
Mine has 0, 10, 20, 30 and 35 degrees the 0 in the middle and has the number in both directions.
i think this is a harbor freight item.

[rreidnauer]

Chad: No, I never had a grinder. I have always hand sharpened, but I sure do want one some day. Anyhow, the trick I heard that works best for them, is set the wheel so it ever so slightly misses the tooth. Then, when you got the wheel down, you give the handle a quick but light side pressure so the wheel contacts the tooth for just a split second. The good news is, the $100 copy has just enough slop in it for this to work really well. (at least that's what I've read)

[chadfortman]

Look, listen and learn
Rod after figure out the hand file and wounder why it didnt work the first time.
I worked onthe chain a half hour both sides.
After i just hit a rock on the chain and the wet oak dules the blade.
It cut like new when i worked on the oak after i used the hand file.
I was saying to my self wow it only took me 3 years to learn this ahhahahha
I now need to learn my new toy but my patients is very short.
Whens your time fram for looking for land. I going to end up rent out some heavy equipmet soon.
The guy i wanted to hire did a slopy job on his own land.
This friday i will see what i can rent soon.
I want to start so bad. People with flat land are so lucky

[GENE13]

Chad: No, I never had a grinder. I have always hand sharpened, but I sure do want one some day. Anyhow, the trick I heard that works best for them, is set the wheel so it ever so slightly misses the tooth. Then, when you got the wheel down, you give the handle a quick but light side pressure so the wheel contacts the tooth for just a split second. The good news is, the $100 copy has just enough slop in it for this to work really well. (at least that's what I've read)

Rod, you need to get ya one, they come with 3 or 4 grinding wheels for different size chains, It also comes with a shaping stone, this helps to shape your grinding wheel for a perfect fit into the Gullet of the chain. It also has a built in light to help you see better. The adjustable depth gauge that is built into the grinder lets you adjust how far you can pull the handle and wheel down, so you can adjust it to lightly touch the chain. My best advise is to buy a new chain, and then adjust the sharpener to fit the new chains angle, makes it a lot easier to get it right. The handle that lowers the grinding wheel down will always stay at that same angle "unless you use more than one size" the chain sits in a guide that is also adjustable that must be set to the correct angle also. The guide is all you move when you change from the right side to left side cutters, however the angle itself remains the same, just on the opposite side. The sharpener also has a built in vise that holds the chain while you lower the wheel onto it, this a great safety feature. Well that's my 2 pennys worth on the subject. LOL.............................> :-)

ps. A sharp chain makes the job a LOT easier, and with less burden and wear on your saw's engine. A "correctly" resharpened chain "sharpened with the correct angles" will cut like it's brand new, and we all know how nice that is.

[tanderson]

I guess I was anxious. I went to Harbor Freight and dropped $40 on their version of a saw chain sharpener. It actually seems to work pretty well! I sharpened my electric saw chain and it works like a champ. I searched hi and lo for my other gas chains and can't find them anywhere but I was able to put a nice edge on my two "non m.i.a. " chains. I'm going to purchase two more and use them as a reference for the proper depth. One thing I am still curious about though is the "gullet". This is the area between the cutter and the depth gauge. I'm not certain that it is of consequence to the cutting of wood, I think it only exhausts cuttings. This could be important, obviously. But, in a nutshell I am happy so far with my $40 harbor freight sharpener.

Thank you to everyone for the great advice.

Badges? We don't need no stinking badges!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaxURLFn6jU&NR=1

[chadfortman]

Look, listen and learn
Im Your Huckleberry!
Keep Rocking With Dokken!

Tanderson i have that one but i got set it up correct.
I like the hand file so far.

Now off the subject
Ow so you like no stinking bages . I just found this out the old mad that digs with them.
He is the father of the guy Bogard keep asking for money in the from did you know that one.
And i not shure but i think they might have something to do with the voice of the hobbit cartoon.

[tanderson]

I just really think that particular quote is funny. "Blazing Saddles" is one of the few movies I own on DVD. I saw a parallel here on the forums with "badges" and thought it would be sorta funny. Contrary to my little slogan, I cannot wait to get my LHBA badge. So far, I worked a limo job for free round trip SWA airfare, but I'm still unemployed... This is not the economy you want to find yourself jobless in, and I was a firefighter! Think those jobs are iron clad secure? I guess not. I am fortunate though and I recognize that. I've been unemployed excluding a small earning as a chauffeuer for more than a year. I saved money, my mortgage is cheap, I'm not upside down, and I'm incredibly handsome/witty/ intelligent. I'm like a triple threat!



Badges? We don't need no stinking badges!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaxURLFn6jU&NR=1

[ChainsawGrandpa]

Sorry to hear about you losing your job!
I'm a firefighter and about two years ago we (all of us!) were
looking at losing our jobs. It's a little unsettling to take a peek
at the retirement door, and find out you may not be walking
through that door when you thought you would.

Times are tough, and money is tight. The bad news is that it's
going be be getting worse, but this may be the best time to take
the class. It will give you ideas that would have never come your
way, and a log home is a great way to get warm & dry shelter for
minimum dollars. Maybe belated, but welcome to the forum. What
part of the country are you in?

-Rick

[tanderson]

I'm in Northern CA, outside of Sacramento. I'm hoping the opportunity presents itself to build a Skip style home in the next 5 years or so. I don't think it would fit in here in "Suburbia" but who knows where I'll be in 5 years? For the time being, I have enough equity in my stick frame home to begin a project like that, but who knows how long that will be the case. I'm an optimist and I'm sure things will work out in the end but it is frustrating. I've applied for roughly 50 jobs, maybe more? I've had 2 interviews and one conditional job offer (prison gaurd). It's discouraging. An LHBA home could help me make up a lot of lost ground, time will tell though.