any one every used a "log Hawg" before

[Shields]

i was searching the net for some tools that could speed up the peeling process of the trees came across this option that fits almost any chainsaw. Any one ever use one of these or something similar?http://www.menco.com/loghawgpage.htm

[Andythompson]

Not a good option for the butt and pass type of building. The course will throughly explain why it does more damage than time it saves. Maybe Steve White or Ellsworth might be more comfortable offering a more detailed explaination.

[Shields]

Thanks for the reply. actually i am taking the next class in april, can't wait. I have many questions but don't want to post them, I'm sure most of them will be covered.

[axeman]

the log wizards which is basically a minnie planer that fits on the end of your chain saw works good for taking down knots etc.. but takes a fair amount of skill to use. I would recommend a Mikita Curve base planner they work good for removing the tough spots or finish dry logs. I do have a special rotory peeler that fits on a large angle grider it works really well for peeling fir or dry wood. then you can finish it with the curve base planner takes alot of the back work out of it. Especially if you are dealing with dry bug wood. Green winter cut wood actually peels very easy in the spring with a draw knife, we have actually even used a high presure washer with a speciall tip on it to peel logs it really strips the bark off in big strips. Also works really well for debarking Cat faces and hard to peel spots.

Hope that helps you out

[Shields]

I saw the log wizard type of plainer, this one seamed a bit different because there was a greater surface area that was applyed to the log it (in my opnion which doesn't mean much in this case) would help to elminate the inconsistances you would have with using the other plainer. A presure washer, never thought of that one, how large was it (psi)?
Thanks
matt

[axeman]

Ya a preasure washer works good aslong as the logs are cut in the winter or early spring and as soon as it is warm enough to keep your water from freezing in your hoses you start peeling them. I have used it on older logs but it doesn t do as good of job as fresh logs. The PSI on the washer I use is 3000 psi plus I have a special tip head that uses ceramic discs to give you a very small powerful rotating stream of water that will just about take the paint off your car if you are not carefull. lol.

Ax

[hawkiye]

One of the reasons this is recommended against is that anything that cuts into the outer rings of the log destroys the natural defenses of the log to the elements which in turn can invite rot and require regular sealing etc through out the life of the structure to try and prevent it. It also destroys the natural character of the logs.

Blayne

[badsign]

just curious , but if you cut the tree down doesnt that kill the tree. and if it is dead wouldnt it 's natural defense also die?
I don't know? but that was posed to me as I tried to explain the fact that I want to build a log home.

[JSanfilippo]

The cambium layer is the most protective area of its crossection, once this is disrupted it lets water inbetween the other layers of wood creating a wick for water intrusion.

tree anatomy (http://www.botany.uwc.ac.za/ecotree/trunk/woodanatomy2.htm#rings)

[Ellsworth]

The cambium layer is the most protective area of its crossection, once this is disrupted it lets water inbetween the other layers of wood creating a wick for water intrusion.[/url]

Actually it???s not the cambium layer; rather it has to do with leaving the growth rings intact down the full length of the log. The dark rings, with their thicker/denser cell walls, will resist water to a much greater degree than the lighter colored growth rings. Don't cut into them (ruining their integrity) and the log will be more naturally resistant to water damage.

[gregorama]

Hey, Axeman, do you have a link to the pressure washer tip you mentioned? Were you able to end up with cosmetically nice logs, or did the water cut into the wood a bit?

Greg