Air leakage warranty...sounds like a great investment.

[rlrasi]

I came across a company that offers air leakage warranty. They use a system called the double cut lateral groove. This sounds like a great idea. The have 2 expanding gaskets between the logs with a relief cut on the bottom log. Any comments or suggestions?

This company is located close to my home. One of their biggest downfalls for me is the price.... $165.00 - $200.00 per square foot....ouch!

Thanks in advance for all of the comments and suggestions! I look forward to meeting all who are attending the February'08 class.

Lisa Rasi
Alberta, Canada

[rreidnauer]

I'm afraid that would probably lead to some risk of compromising the log's natural defense against rot. I guess a lot would depend on how much blowing rain you receive, and how well your roof protects your walls.

[akemt]

It sounds like something set up for kit homes and not actually made for a skip-style home...though I haven't seen what it is. I wouldn't get too set on anything untill after you attend class. And even then you'll probably still end up changing your mind a number of times; I have! Our circumstances keep changing and so our plans do as well. The one constant is that we still want to build a log home and we still want to be mortgage-free. I hope the class comes quickly for you!

[Klapton]

It does sound like you are describing a milled log system used primarily for kit-style homes. Once you take the class, you will most likely abandon any notion of building with milled logs of any kind. Unless you simply don't like the look of the LHBA "Skip Style" with chinking. But you will know without a doubt that using hand-peeled logs, butt and pass construction, and large overdangles and roof overhangs is simply the very best (and simplest / easiest) way to build a log home that will endure the test of time with the least amount of required maintenance.

One VERY important concept taught in the class is the problem of "flat on flat" -- that is, wood directly against wood, from which ALL chinkless styles (even when done correctly by hand) suffer. When wood is directly against wood, capillary action draws water into the cracks. Because the crack is tight (if it's done right), it does not allow the moisture to evaporate, and it promotes rot. The "solution" to this is to seal it somehow to "keep the water out". While this sounds like a good idea, it doesn't work that way in reality. Water WILL find a way in there, and then the sealers actually end up keeping the water IN, and making evaporation even less likely.

The method taught in the class leaves open space between the logs, which are then filled with insulation, and covered with mortar chinking. This allows any moisture that might get between the logs to evaporate. Combining that with large roof overhangs so the walls only get wet during the fiercest of storms, and you are virtually guaranteed not to get any rot.