1930's log home

[twinkietoes]

Hi...

Im looking at a 1930 log home to purchase. I looked at it today, and it is known as a fixer upper. It has no basement and a very tiny crawl space and looks as i it is standing on blocks. The bottom row of logs on the house, particularly in the back of the house is completely dry rotted or has termite damage. The walls, however are straight, not bowed, though there has been some settling over the years, particularly in the chimney and one window in the back of the house. I am wondering if the entire foundation needs to be replaced. There are also some logs that will need to be replaced due to termite damage. You can see daylight from inside the house in one section.

I wonder if any of you can tell me if replacing the logs is a difficult task and if it is very very expensive... and is the bottom row of logs actually structural in nature? Like I said, it is a fixer upper, and the price of the house is very low for the area, but If I can figure out what this would entail, I may do it anyway. Thanks

Kathleen

[zato_ichi]

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/55717392aqdaKd

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/134208382KXlFhp

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/138129426QGcUPS

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/138117357PZNAFk

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560891235bXlcrx

here is some links to some log repair work photos

from what i have read it is a fairly involved process of replacing the rotted log. It would depend on which method of log building was used as to the exact course of action...however these photo galleries show that it is certainly possible to repair. I'd imagine it would need to go something like this, first determine which logs need replaced, then figure out a way to suspend the good logs off the ground while working on the bad ones(my brother scrounged up a railroad car jack for 20 bucks, lifts 35 tons or something like that, something along those lines should fit the bill) probably something beefier than than a standard floor jack, then figure out a way to remove the bad log without damaging if possible than create a replica log and fit it into place. good luck

[clairenj]

Kathleen, we have been working on a 1948 log home in NJ for about 2 years now. We bought it and then I took the LHBA course. We are adding onto as well as renovating. The class was definitely woth the time and $$.
as far as log repair: I have found that if at least half of a log is not rotted, it is easier to remove the bad part and patch in a good log than to try and remove the whole log. There are amazing products you can plug in to the damaged area which will stop the rot and preserve and harden what is left before you add the new log section. One such product is Impel. These are rods which are a copper based compound. After a 1" hole is drilled into the old section the rod is placed inside and plugged. The copper based preservative will permeate the wood and stop the rot. Another is a two part preservative called liquid wood and wood epox both by a company called abatron. I am not into chemicals or spending extra money, but sometimes you"ve got no other options. If you love the house, the location and the price, than go for it. Good luck and I will watch for other posts from you.

[rocklock]

Alki, Washington (West Seattle) has a log home museum that was repaired. Below is a link to the only thing that I could find... They have a display at the museum that was interesting...
Why did the log home built in 1907 need repair... Almost no overhang, and several places are where the ground splash hit the logs...
They jacked up the home and stuck identical logs, exactly the same size in the wall... And then they stained the logs to match the older logs....
I doubt that most folk could see the repair job... It was good - but very expensive... You could build several log homes for the cost of this repair...

http://www.loghousemuseum.org/history.php?neighbor=1
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s274/flintlock1/115_1599.jpg

To me the most important idea was take care of the water - get it off your logs.... Hence, My dirt is over 2 feet from the bottom of my logs...
This is the only picture that shows how little overhang there is...

[hemlock77]

Here is good restoration sight. http://www.bearfortlodge.com/bearfort_lodge/log_home_restoration/index.html I do however recomend taking the class. There is a lot of good info on how to avoid future decay issues etc.
Stu
http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/hemlock77/

[Larry Charles]

I'll be in the Jan 19/20 class next weekend. I'm talking with a friend of mine about helping him out with his log home repair, then exchanging labor when I start building. He built a log home about 10 years ago. The logs he used were taken from an older home, are all Chestnut and predate the Civil War. Not really sure how old they are. He is asking me a few restoration issues he needs to deal with. I'll bring these up next weekend, but any insight would be appreciated.

1. How to treat the ends of logs? (His logs have not been treated and are beginning to hollow out)
2. How to best fill the cracks and holes in the logs? What products etc. would be best?
3. Chinking repair? (ie. can he use a newer product to patch the chinking. He has mesh wire and concrete, particularly the outside chinking)
4. His logs are stained and it has lasted for 10 years. Is there a stain/sealing combination which is recommended?

[rreidnauer]

Hey Larry,

It's really difficult to answer your questions effectively, since there are too many factors/assumptions to be considered. Yes, some direct "use this" answers could be given, but it likely won't address the original cause of the problem(s). It's really a case of having someone come out and see what you got, and then work up a complete game plan.

Sorry, that's not of much help, but I feel it's better than providing advice that may only cover up a bigger problem.

[Larry Charles]

Thanks Rod for the reply. I knew that was a lot to ask. There may not be much he will be able to do, as far as overall repairs are concerned. The logs in the home are so old. But there may be some things that can be done to extend the life of them a little longer. I'm sure I'll get a better idea after the class.

Thanks again.

[huffjohndeb]

The only thing I could suggest would be to dig out the rot a and fill the voids with epoxy... Gasp oh my The epoxy will keep the elements from doing further damage to the inside of the logs. You could use the This Old House method tear it down rebuild it and call it an Old House. It seem the idea is to at least stop the rot before it gets worse. Water+Wood=Rot

Check out this link. http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/rotrepair.htm

[Bearfort_Lodge]

Claire has an amazing log home -- you should see the work that she has been doing on it -- Stunning! Not to mention the addition -- The addition is incredible

I just got your recent email Claire -- Would love to check out the new updates!

Twinkietoes - Restoration can be a rather daunting task -- but the rewards are thrilling.

I too recommend taking the course -- I have gone through restoration of a 100 + year old log lodge- there are still things to which Im tending however the course proved to be of major value in helping me to further understand that process in which the lodge was constructed.

I restore log homes. to provide a simple answer to how to fix a rotted log would be of disservice - you have to investigate the cause among other things.

Taking the course will give you tremendous insight - you will walk away with very clear ideas and concepts and practical how to when tackling your project.

Hemlock: thanks for the plug -

I have been involved in restoration for years - long before I took the course - Yet the course provided information that I previously had not considered -- and the information learned has been critical in my restoration work.

If you are thinking about tackling restoring a log home - the course would be well worth the time effort and resources. It is the best investment you could make for your project.