clearing land by a creek?

[knuckledragger]

I had not originally intended on posting this question here, but everyone has been so helpful and insightful that I thought I might just run it past y'all.

The property my wife and I are trying to buy has a creek on it, but in order to get to it, you have to climb down about 20-50 feet of rock bluffline. There are a couple of places one can climb down pretty easily, but there would be no way of getting any heavy equipment down to the area. The problem is that the area is overgrown with underbrush and briars so it is hard to hike around down by the creek and enjoy that part of the property.

Any suggestions on clearing out some of the underbrush? We feel that we will probably be doing it by hand, but what are some suggestions on tools we can use? What about controlled burns?

Thanks again for your advice.
Jim

[rmillyn]

Well, if I could wait on the results for a few months, I would be seriously tempted to get a goat or two. That's if I or my neighbors had enough perimeter fences up to have a secure place to contain/protect them. Goats love briars!

[knuckledragger]

The underbrush is so thick down by the creek that it would have to be cleared somewhat before I could fence it in. Also I'm not sure on how to go about fencing across the creek.

Otherwise, it's not a baa-a-a-a-ad idea! (sorry about the goat pun, I couldn't help myself)

[rreidnauer]

Well, down at work, I've casually cleared nearly an acre over the last few years, using nothing more than a chainsaw, straight shaft weed-eater with brush blade, machette, pruner, pump sprayer with Roundup, and a truck with a tow strap. (that was used to tear down the wild vines that get up into the trees) The Roundup helped a lot when things were greened up, to get a better idea of how to attack the problem. A lot of the briars (and there was a lot) were quite large, with stems in the 1 1/2" range, but a lot of it was dead wood inside, which broke up pretty easily. I came at them from the back side, were there was better access to the base of the growth. The brush blade got me in close where cover was still too thick.

Fire is a risky game. I lost control of one, and the horns and lights had to come save the day. Amazing how quick things can get away from you once that chain reaction takes off. :lol:

[knuckledragger]

I have been leaning towards a brush trimmer, some loppers, and a pulaski axe. I even thought about the roundup, but I am leary of using chemicals that close to a creek. Is there any chemical out there that will do the job without damaging the ecosystem in any way?

[LonghornSam]

Maybe somebody else can chime in on this but knuckledragger's questions comment got me to thinking...

I don't know much about what some of what I propose (cranes), but here goes. Not knowing the lay of your land above the bluff or below it.... could you use a crane to lower down some heavy equipment to the creekside below?

If so I might consider an approach like this... I love the look of this type of gizmo (click on the video clips on their website) ---> http://www.starhilljawz.com/gallery.html to yank out shrubs and trees by their roots, move rocks, etc. I like the fact that you can use a very small skid unit, bobcats, etc to run the unit via hydraulics.

So if you could get a unit like this lowered down on a crane then you could also probably lower down a wood chipper as well. Last year, I spent two weekends cutting down brush and piling it up. Then on the third weekend, I rented a commercial grade wood chipper and it made quick work of about 4 huge piles (bigger than my pickup truck) of brush (cedar, pinon pine, and ponderosa pine) up to 4 or 5 inches in diameter. I was then able to use the mulch in various areas on my property.

If you cannot use the heavy handed approach then you might try the minimal approach that I used last summer. Since most of my brush is small in diameter (under 6 inches) and I am working in very tight quarters I needed something small and safe. I used two electric chainsaws with an inverter (with enough amp load to start up the saws) and deep cycle marine battery to run the whole setup. It was easy, quiet, and pretty efficient. I could cut off and on for 4 hours or more just using a $70 deep cycle marine battery from Auto Zone.

I used a regular electric chainsaw just like the one Ellsworth demos in class for larger stuff. The bulk of what I cut was with this model from Black and Decker and it is AWESOME !! ----> http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Alligator-Electric-LP1000/dp/B000BANMUY It is easy to handle and really safe. As an aside, this has been one of the best tool purchases I have ever made for under $100... I highly recommend it.

I have had mixed results with brush killers and I have concerns about using a bunch of that near your creek. I have had mixed results.

Knuckledragger... can you post some pics from above and below so we can get a better look at your problem?

Hope that helps.

[knuckledragger]

I will be going back over to the land at the end of this month (assuming that nothing goes wrong in the closing process) and I will get pictures then. I don't know how much it costs to rent a crane or other heavy machinery, but I was hoping to do this with minimal impact on my budget. I'll post pics as soon as I can get 'em.

Thanks again,
Jim

[hawkiye]

Put a goat on a chain reach when he clears out an area move him to the next.

Blayne

[kyle]

I've always used a weed eater with a brush blade like Rod mentions above. Never had a problem using it to cut through 4 inch trees as well as all the brush. Good ones usually run about $200. Mine is an Echo and its one of the commercial models so its a workhorse, well balanced, and rather lite.

[rreidnauer]

I have been leaning towards a brush trimmer, some loppers, and a pulaski axe. I even thought about the roundup, but I am leary of using chemicals that close to a creek. Is there any chemical out there that will do the job without damaging the ecosystem in any way?

Roundup isn't as bad as you might think. Unlike ground saturation herbicides, it is a coverage type agent, that breaks down into natural materials in a couple days. (you can replant in 48~72 hrs, or reseed as soon as it drys) It only kills what it coats, and works best on warm/hot, sunny days when photosynthesis is at it's peak.

[knuckledragger]

Thanks for the input everyone. I just bought a brush trimming attachment for my Sears Cheapo, Craftsman, 25 cc, gas/oil mix weed trimmer. With only a 25 cc engine, am I wasting my time?

[rreidnauer]

Thanks for the input everyone. I just bought a brush trimming attachment for my Sears Cheapo, Craftsman, 25 cc, gas/oil mix weed trimmer. With only a 25 cc engine, am I wasting my time?

Nah, that will probably work just fine. But I hope that it is a straight shaft trimmer. The flexible shaft on curved shaft trimmers won't survive brushcutter blades. I don't know what you got for a brush blade, but I got one like this one.
http://www.stihlusa.com/graphics/brushcutters/metal_blade.gif
It can cut everything from grass to 1 1/2" limbs. (with a bit of finess) The way I use it, is to build up the RPMs and let off the throttle just before making a smooth swinging cut like that of using a scythe. The blade's momentum cuts through anything under an inch with energy to spare, and doesn't really require HP from the trimmer to accomplish it. You just use the trimmer to bring the speed back up after the cut. This blade eats briars with pleasure!

[knuckledragger]

Thanks for the tip, Rod. And mine is a straight shaft trimmer. Hopefully we close on the land next week and head up there next weekend to show it to my wife's folks and clear out a path to the creek. I'll let you know how it works and I'll take some pictures and post them if I can.

[greenthumb]

Rod is right about the roundup being about as safe as it gets- though be careful using it real close to the water or when rain is likely for a few days. Don't mix any stronger than necessary. The active ingredient, glyphosate, is used in an aquatic herbicide- Rodeo- for control of waterborne plants in the Everglades and other wet areas. That said, don't spray Roundup directly in the water- the surfactants(chemicals that break the waxy coating on the leaves to allow the glyphosate to penetrate) used can be toxic to fish. Rodeo uses a different formulation in its mix. If you spray green grown(grass, weeds or regrowth from stumps), spray when its warm and plants are actively growing. When spraying cut stems or stumps, do so within about 10 minutes of cutting to be most effective. Read and follow all directions and warning labels. I am not responsible for improper use.... yada yada...

As for the brush cutter, be extremely careful with any weedeater with a D style handle and metal blade attachment. Your best bet is a real brush cutter or clearing saw with bicycle style handlebars, a full harness, and a 3 point brush blade, preferable from Husqvarna or Stihl. I use stihl FS550(57cc) models almost exclusively in my business, but you should be ok with anything 44cc or larger. Depending on species, I can easily cut 3"+ trees all day long, full time. It's an expensive machine- running at around $1k and the blades are about $50 each. Its the best setup I've found for cutting a variety of brush- tall grass, vines, and small trees. You can cut at or slightly below ground level(depending on rocks/soil type) without damaging the blade- and its easy to resharpen with an angle grinder or bastard file. With a circular blade its hard to cut near ground level without dulling the blade- and you end up leaving a short stem that can be tripped on, and potentially hurt someone if they fall on it. The 3 point blades tend to mulch smaller pieces as well.

Can you get into the ravine with a four wheeler or pickup/jeep? There are some larger machines you might be able to rent locally that would save some time depending on how big of an area you cutting.

Take your time with the equipment, and work safe. :)

[Basil]

a machette is a much better brush clearing tool than most people think. Let the blade do the work with its own weight and you can swing it all day.

[Kola]

any possibilty of renting a helicopter and coming in upside down?

disclaimer:YMMV

Kola

[rreidnauer]

any possibilty of renting a helicopter and coming in upside down?

disclaimer:YMMV

Kola

Sure, but you'er only going to get one shot at it, so be sure to get the extra insurance. :lol:

But, since you brought up egg-beaters, here's how it's done: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMQgt5YiD0w

[Kola]

LOL!

a pretty cool video..notice the pilot hanging his head over the side to watch what he is cutting while he continues to steer the chopper..amazing.

I wonder if he could cut my hair? :?

Kola

[Vern Street]

Hey guys! Would you believe that machine was designed by a friend of mine over in Pea Ridge, Arkansas! Those are buzz saw blades powered by hydraulics from the helicopter. Great video! First time I've actually seen it in action.

The designer is a fellow motorcycle racing friend from my younger days named Jay Hale. He's designed some other neat stuff, too. He's retired now so I'm not sure of the company name.

Vern

[kyle]

Vern,

Maybe you could ask him if he has one of the saws still laying around to cut your overdangles with when you are done!

:D

[sparky]

That has got to be one of the craziest things I have ever seen :!:
Wow :!: Amazing :!: Vern, you have got to contact Jay and ask him how he would simplify driving rebar. :idea: He just might come up with a light weight, hand held cannon. :idea: :lol:

Sparky

[Vern Street]

Hey Sparky!
That's a great idea!

Vern