Should you dry logs if you've got the time?

[MRenaud]

We have bought a farm in West Virginia that we're looking to retire to in 4.5 yrs. It's got plenty of tall, straight, yellow poplar and would like to put a log cabin addition up against our small stone house to use as a master bedroom w/bath and walk-in closet. After reading all the posts I could find and going to lots of links provided; You all have got me thinking I might could build it myself. I'd like to thank all involved in this site for all the great info already read. I think I understand the advantages of the LHBA method but if I've got the time and space (large open sided barn) to store logs, would it be worth my while to do so a few years before I build or would it just be too problematic. Thanks. :D

[RockEngineer]

It doesn't hurt to have your logs dry. Just keep them off the ground, keep the bugs away from them and turn them periodically. Take the class. It is well worth you time and money if you are even thinking of doing it yourself.

[rreidnauer]

Either way works. With the LHBA method, logs can be used green or seasoned with equal results. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages. With green, it's easier to drive your rebar and you can get right to it as fast as you can get them peeled. But, they are going to be a lot heavier. Seasoned logs are lighter, but you have to have the space to store them and they should be rotated regularly, and driving rebar will probably be harder to drive.

Unlike any other log home construction techniques, I want to build with green logs. They may weigh a whole heck of a lot, but summer cut logs will peel easy, rebar will go in easier, and in theory, will "lock up" the rebar as the logs season in. By the time I get around to chinking, the majority of shrinking will be done. I'll also apply some sort of sealer (pitch?) on the endgrain to slow the drying and control checking, and cut it off later on.

[JeffandSara]

Hi, M--

Welcome to the site. Richard and Rod have covered the basic ins and outs on your question, I'd say. And I agree with them.... do take the class. It's well worth your time, travel and money for the wealth of information and support LHBA provides.

I wonder, though, if Basil or someone who's built/building with poplar specifically might have additional insights into this, as hardwood logs do seem to have some different issues than conifers. :?:

Good luck on both your retirement plans and your log addition plans!

Sara :D

[Basil]

Driving rebar in seasoned poplar 101-summer course
AKA a poplar primer


If the poplar has seasoned more than about 8 months, you need thicker than 1/2" rebar. once you drive into the heartwood, the stuff compresses then just bends over.

Sometimes you can actually see splits forming as you drive rebar into the second log. Smaller logs are worst.

As you slide along the top of the wall, watch out for the little spikes where limbs were planning to grow out. You'll split your pants, at best, and at worst you'll have your significant other picking splinters out of your butt while you lay on your belly on the floor. Um, of course, I don't know this from personal experience, you know, I've just heard...

Peel those logs as fast as possible. If you could do it safely I'd say peel them as they fall. Poplar comes off easily when fresh. Also, because it comes off easily, it can be damaged easily. Anywhere the bark falls off will discolor at a different rate than the stuff still covered.

Freshly peeled poplar (and the bark that peels off) is like walking on banana peels on an oiled down frozen pond. If they could bottle that slippery fresh poplar slime they'd use it to oil the space shuttle.

[jeffro]

You could also make poplar bark siding for your gable ends if you peeled large enough pieces off.


Jeff