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View Full Version : No Bucks correct crooked wall?



gandtodd
02-16-2007, 07:45 PM
Hello to all, My Crocket log home was built in 1984 in VT. Double toungue and groove walls with 40d spikes were installed green. None of the door or window openings were bucked! I notice on my front door where the hinges are the wall is straight, but on the latch side the wall is S shaped. So just the hinges and door and a few nails were enough to keep that side straight. I'm considering removing the door, a prehung, enlarging the opening for 2X bucks, and trying to straighten the opening on the latch side, then installing bucks and finally reinstalling the door. I am wondering if anyone has used angle iron and threaded rod for this, or id there a better way to straighten out an older wall and then how do you keeep it that way before reinstalling the door or window? Or what other ideas? I'm getting a lot of air leakage around this door and would like to do a clean, permanent repair. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. CT

rreidnauer
02-16-2007, 08:14 PM
I am wondering if anyone has used angle iron and threaded rod for this, or id there a better way to straighten out an older wall and then how do you keeep it that way before reinstalling the door or window? Or what other ideas?

Geez, if this was a Skip style constructed home, it would be a lot easier to fix, but because it's chinkless and T+G'ed it makes for a bigger job. Yes, removing the door, (perhaps a temporary wall supporting upper floor/roof would be a good idea if it's buckled badly. The door frame may be the only thing keeping the wall up right now!) is going to be the way you need to go. Once the frame is removed, you'll have to clamp two temporary solid beams on either side of the wall, at the door opening to straighten it. (Hi-Lift jacks are one good solution for major clamping applications) Then you'd need to notch in your buck, and finally add a heavy frame around the opening for good measure. I imagine you will still have to make provisions for settling too.

The reason I mentioned it would be easier done on a Skip style B+P home, is because all-thread could have been past through a chinking joint, allowing the clamping of the wall, and not have obstructions in the doorway itself. But I highly doubt a properly built B+P home would move anyhow. :wink:

Hope this helps.