Think a Stihl 361 will do?

[jawasan]

Well I have been trying to make sense of all the different options out there for saws and have one in my sights... the Stihl MS361.

I am thinking this will hopefully last many years and do well for a beginner and be enough later down the road as I gain more skill/experience.

I have seen most agree on the 390 and that is my second choice...but I have a chance to pick up the 361 for a nice price.
Any thoughts on this saw?

Leo

[rreidnauer]

Well, if it were me, I'd go with the 361. Especially if you can get it at a price below the 390. The 390 is from their "mid-grade" line of saws, while the 361 is from their "professional" line of saws. (meaning, it's designed for daily use) Horsepower is nearly identical and the 361 is slightly lighter. Recommended bar of 20", and up to 25" should allow you to do just about anything you want. If you're thinking of using it for milling, an Alaskan sawmill would work good, but either saw would be inadequate for a Procut sawmill. For general firewood cutting, the 361 should last you a lifetime with proper care.

You didn't say whether the 361 is used or not. That may play an influence in your decision.

[jawasan]

Damn!! The 361 sold for $510 while I was at work.....and I can not be on eBay while at work. BTW, the 361 was BRAND NEW with case and 2 chains!I did notice Stihl has no prices on their site nor do the retailers I have found. Any ideas what a 361 goes for retail? Or a 390?

Yeh Rod, I did notice the 390 is heavier. But does 1 lb make that big of a difference when sawing? I suppose over the course of a day it would but I have no idea.
Thanks for the advice though. Unless I find a 361 again on eBay it looks like the 390 will be my poison. Agghhh, DECISIONS!

Leo

[rreidnauer]

Too late now, but consider this for those times when you can't get to Ebay. http://www.auctionsniper.com/ BTW, that's the third 361 that guy has sold on Ebay in the past five days, (selling for $492, $545, and $510 respectively) so there may be more on the way.

Yea, I don't think the weight is as big of a determining factor, as is the grade or class of saw.

You typically won't find too many Stihl dealers listing their prices. Stihl operates via an exclusive dealer network. They may even ask (tell?) their dealers not to advertise their prices. The intent is to keep consumers locally tied to the dealers. Unfortunately, it keeps the consumer in the dark, and the dealer pricing doesn't have to be competitive. It puts all the power in the hands of the dealer, not the consumer. If you're not happy with your dealer, well, too bad. (fortunately, you usually don't have to drive too far to find another)

I had this "exclusive dealer" network blow up in my face when I bought my engine for the plane I built. Here in the States, there has been anywhere from none to three (yes, three) dealers. Of the current three, only one is good, and his dealership doesn't cover my area, so I'm out of luck. Anyhow, the plane is good as sold, and that fiasco is behind me. So anyhow, this is the reason I avoid exclusive dealer networks. I'm not interested in smoke screens and being told whom I have to buy from.

[jawasan]

Auctionsniper.com is in my favorites now. I hear ya' about having to be told whom and where to purchase from. Being new to this my justification is the Stihl is par none on quality.

Anyhow, I became impatient and went with a 390. I just couldn't wait to purchase a saw man, it was killin' me!!! So I figure this will be a great starter saw and surely will accomplish what I hope.

I have used a chain saw before... but what I was using and was cutting is a far cry from what the intent is here. Big step up in every way. I am really excited! I'll be safe rest assured.

Leo
...the sickness has begun!

[jeffro]

Around here, the 390 goes for ~$450, with an 18 or 20 inch bar and chain. Not that I have been shopping around or anything.

Jeff

[jawasan]

I picked up the 390 from a certified Stihl mechanic that completly refurbished the saw. New plugs, piston, rings, etc....All the plastic and guards are A+, new 20" bar, 2 chains. I won it for $405.99

I had no idea if that was a good price or not but basically it is a new saw for me. Ya' say around $450 in your area, so I guess I didn't do too bad. I hope you're not talking $450 out the dealer door BRAND NEW... I would be mad as ever I didn't go new if that is the case!!

Leo

[jeffro]

I hope you're not talking $450 out the dealer door BRAND NEW... I would be mad as ever I didn't go new if that is the case!!
Leo

Well, you would have to add tax to it since that is the retail price, which would put it closer to $490 out the door. So you got ~20% less than new price. Not bad at all if the saw is in good shape.

Jeff

[Upers]

I can get my hands on a Stihl 026 - 13 years old used on a 1 acre lot for brus and tree clean up
for $60.

I called my Stihl dealer and he said typically $65 for a tune up....

Suggestions on whether I should nab it or wait for a newer deal would be appreciated...

[rreidnauer]

I can get my hands on a Stihl 026 - 13 years old used on a 1 acre lot for brus and tree clean up
for $60.

I called my Stihl dealer and he said typically $65 for a tune up....

Suggestions on whether I should nab it or wait for a newer deal would be appreciated...
. . . . . it runs and has good compression. Get it hot, turn it off, and be sure it restarts. (if not, ignition is probably on it's way out) Bar/chain shot? That'll cost ya like $40 to replace if it is, so keep it in mind. Lastly, tell him you only got $50 with ya. He'll probably bite.

Pretty easy to service yourself. I got an older 028 I got all fixed up, and they are smooth running machines. Perfect for firewood.

[tanderson]

About 8 years ago I bought the 029, I think. It's the "Farm Boss" model. I had a 20" bar put on instead of the standard 16". It's been a good saw with one major exception and it might be a California thing. The molded fuel line would break down every single year!!! Maybe it's the MTBE in California fuels at the time? I've used it and poured the excess fuel out, I've run it out of fuel, I've used fuel stabilizer and did both methods. I just haven't been able to go a year without buying a new fuel line. Stihl has to no about this issue by now and they should make a line out of compatible material! It's frustrating, especially when there are very few dealers that are local. However, it's been a really good saw when it has a good fuel line. I paid a couple hundred for this saw (new) and it has cut about 25 cord of wood and is still going strong. It's just that special fuel line that pisses me off most years.

[rreidnauer]

Yes, it was a California thing. (now it's everyone's problem) It is the high alcohol content, and the rubber not being alcohol resistant. A trip to the local hobby store may be in order, and pick yourself up some resistant fuel line there. Sadly, no small engine manufactures seem to care about the havoc ethanol is creating.

Cripes, I'm gonna have to start distilling gasoline now?

[tanderson]

We have to be unique in California. This fuel line is ribbed and angled with bends and special fittings. They have engineerd it to the point of uselessness or utmost importance, not sure which. What ever happened to the days of 1/8" I.D.?

The rest of the world could care less that one of the largest economic engines in the world happens to live in a bowl. Those beautiful Sierras trap air and make us breathe the smog. It's like a road block for air. We are in a cycle that keeps getting worse and worse. MTBE has done nothing but contiminate ground water! Nice move.

Just give me a good fuel line!

[Tom Featherstone]

The first question should be, what are you going to use it for? If it's for firewood, the 026 is a good saw. If you plan on using it for a mill, way to small. I wouldn't buy a used saw that old, you don't know how it was cared for/ abused..... I started with used/cheap saws, caused more head aches trying to start-run- cut. The larger saws are great if you have a need for them, i.e. real big trees, you're a logger, or plan on running a mill. But for the average person that may cut your own firewood for a season per year, the smaller saws are the way to go....024-032 are usually more than enough, the extra lbs do make a difference if you're in the bush. I had the opportunity to work with a logger on my property many years ago, he wouldn't even let me touch a saw for two weeks until I learned all the safety aspects....besides sticking&stacking for him. One of the first things about saws was that they should cut the same way everytime, like they do brand new, with a new bar & chain, anything less than that, you & the saw are working to hard. Fuel is also important, anything mixed up that you can't use up in a month, don't use.....something to do with the gas we get today, and I don't use ethanal at all......

Tom

[Upers]

Thanks for all of the Stihl feedback!!

I am using it to clear my .7 acre lot and build per the Skip butt and pass method. I will have to fell some trees.
and then the rest will be using it to build.

I am tempted to go out and get it for $60 because I need something very soon... Chainsaws in Chicago's Craigslist
are kinda rare, but I am going to think this over a bit... I hate to shell out $500 for a new one, but maybe that is the safest
lowest total cost of ownership in the long run...

Thanks again for all of the feedback.

Yoopers Pat
Status: Clearing lot and talking with Architect to modify 35 x 35 plans

[Timberwolf]

Even if you only cut your own firewood every year, a quality saw is a really good investment. It might seem like a lot, but taken care of, a good Stihl or Husky should last 20 years or more.

Trust me, if you've ever owned an old, beat up saw (that you didn't beat up yourself) you'll realize quickly how much you appreciate a saw that starts (regardless of weather), runs and cuts like it should. Standing on a roof in the snow, tied off and freezing, you don't want to have to crank the thing fiftysevenhundred times to get it to start. Plus all the new saws come with the safety features you want.

During construction, the gas saw will still be used a fair amount, even if you have the electric for the finer detail work.

I'm partial to Stihl (I own 2, a 270 and a 660 Magnum) and for general purpose work (cutting, limbing, felling) the smaller 260 (pro-class) would be my choice. The 270 is still a really good saw, but for the $50 difference, the lighter weight of the 260 is noticable and appreciated (wish I'd thought of that earlier). This years model comes with a decompressor for easier starting too. Not that the saw's are hard to start anyway. My big 660 usually goes on the first or second pull.

Not sure if it's the same in the US, but the Stihl dealers around my area will negotiate pretty easily on price. Stihl doesn't seem to have MSRP for the most part, other than giving dealers incentives at different times of the year. Don't discount last years model that may be still on the shelves. The saws don't change that much year to year.

Tom is right on the money, if you are a saw newbie, take the time to have someone show you the ropes and read the manual. Purchase and wear all the safety gear. Bravado is a thin cloak against the cold chill of the grave. Put all the machosim aside. I speak from the experience of stupidity. I have scar above my femortal artery where the doctor drove 13 staples in my leg. I was lucky, you may not be. Be safe, always.

Jason.

[Klapton]

You typically won't find too many Stihl dealers listing their prices. Stihl operates via an exclusive dealer network. They may even ask (tell?) their dealers not to advertise their prices. The intent is to keep consumers locally tied to the dealers. Unfortunately, it keeps the consumer in the dark, and the dealer pricing doesn't have to be competitive. It puts all the power in the hands of the dealer, not the consumer. If you're not happy with your dealer, well, too bad. (fortunately, you usually don't have to drive too far to find another)

I had this "exclusive dealer" network blow up in my face when I bought my engine for the plane I built. Here in the States, there has been anywhere from none to three (yes, three) dealers. Of the current three, only one is good, and his dealership doesn't cover my area, so I'm out of luck. Anyhow, the plane is good as sold, and that fiasco is behind me. So anyhow, this is the reason I avoid exclusive dealer networks. I'm not interested in smoke screens and being told whom I have to buy from.
I agree about exclusive dealer networks and "smokescreens". Generally though, businesses that have setups like this and succeed long-term are able to do so for one reason: QUALITY. I think that's the case with Stihl, though I know very little about chainsaws (I've learned a lot reading this thread.)

Another example of something like this is Cutco cutlery. It's only available via direct marketing reps. My mom has had a set since 1959 when my dad sold the stuff part time. I tried my hand at selling the stuff while I was in college. I thought I could do it simply because the product is amazing, and basically sells itself. I don't know anyone who has ever seen a demo of the product who didn't want them. I ran into lots of people who couldn't afford them, however. And even fewer who were willing to give me the names and phone numbers of their closest friends so I could call them and try to sell them stuff (however good the stuff was). So I gave up on it; I just didn't have the stomach for the networking / marketing part. I learned that I would never do outside sales of any kind, no matter how good the product was. Inside sales I could do, if I believed in the product.

One could name other companies and products that are like this in some way. Avon, Mary Kay, Snap-On Tools, Tupperware... These all have or had some kind of "gatekeeper" setup to benefit their dealers, but they all have been successful because of the repuation of quality of their products.

[Steve Meek]

I have a Stihl 361, anti-vibration and a compression release. It came with a 24" bar, I had it changed to a 20" one for cutting fire wood.
I have used it for five years and love it. This summer I have been using an Alaskan sawmill and it does a good job. The lumber is looking great and now I want to upgrade to a procut.
But then I'll have to upgrade the chainsaw too because I am maxing out the 361 now when I cut an 18" oak slab. But it sure looks great when cut. This was a great investment and I would buy another Stihl in a second.

[edkemper]

I'm going over to the local dealer this afternoon. I'll see what I can get. I want two Stihls. One of the smallest for the little stuff and a big one for logs/trees. I own forest land so I'll get plenty of use out of them.
As for pricing, I hope I have a hook. I'm in CA with an 8.75% sales tax. My property is in Oregon with no sales tax. Either the locals deal or they don't. <smile> I'm hoping that two saws and safety gear is worth their while to work a deal for me. We'll see. I've already learned you can't find any discounts on-line for Stihls.