Paint, err, stain oh so very confused

[voodoo1306]

I purchased a log home back in November. I love it. The previous owner complained about replacing rotted logs often. It was built in 2000. Now it has Behr brand “solid color waterproofing stain” on it. It says stain but I am fairly confident it acts as a paint. I think this is the reason for the rotted logs but new to this I am learning. I hope I don’t have to strip and re stain the home as there is a lot of surface area and it will be very expensive and time consuming.

[Shark]

It could be the finish, but it also could be lack of proper over hangs, lack of gutters, etc.
What type of logs, and do you have pictures?

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[voodoo1306]

It could be the finish, but it also could be lack of proper over hangs, lack of gutters, etc.
What type of logs, and do you have pictures?

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

I repaired and cleaned several of the gutters and it needs 2 more installed as the builder didn’t for some reason. I am not sure what type of wood, I don’t think it is cypress. I understand that ”paint” can allow moisture in but not out and rots the logs. I have pics let me see if I can figure out how to post them

[voodoo1306]

I can’t upload photos, I think its because I’m new

[loghousenut]

It's not because you're new, it's because you're stupid.


OK, OK, you're certainly no stupider than I am. If you are doing this on your phone, downloading the app Tapatalk will make photos a breeze.

If you are on a big screen computer, try Imgur and see if that makes it possible.

One way or another, unless we have an address, we can't see the place.

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[voodoo1306]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220823/9e7571e0c3f8447333471ec990fcdefe.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220823/cdef82d36596769c73a84de05a0345c6.jpg


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[voodoo1306]

There! I never used tapatalk before.[emoji51]


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[loghousenut]

I hate being the bad guy but someone has to start the discussion.

Unfortunately, I fear this is a system failure that is common in the kit log house industry. We, here on this forum all have one thing in common... we are all building a non-kit log home to avoid several of the problems that you have inherited.

Before we see more photos I'll take a stab at your home's problem.

1... Your "logs" have been milled on the tops and bottoms where they rest on each other. The horizontal joints are flat, fitting tightly together. Any water that finds a way to that joint sucks itself in as far as it can and tries to stay there. It then promotes fungus that promotes decay.

Test this theory by putting a 2x4 flat on top of another board in the weather. Within weeks you'll see the fungus growing between the boards.

2... Your roof overhangs are not long enough to prevent rain water soaking the walls. This is not a problem for a normal stick framed house because the walls are water resistant.

It is a serious problem for a home built with the boards (referring back to the flat on flat scenario in point 1) that have a potential water sucking inlet every 6" as the rain runs down the wall. You could spend two lifetimes recaulking and resealing every exterior crack, but the house is made of wood and it wants to twist, shift, and breath. I think you are correct that the "stain" is not helping the problem but I suspect that removing it will not solve it.

Gutters are not enough. Longer roof overhangs or a complete wraparound porch is what it takes to keep the logs dry. This is exhasperate by the deck that fits tightly against the wall.

Take a good look at this LHBA website and you'll quickly see that your problem is totally what we lifetime LHBA members are all here to avoid. Personally, my home has a minimum 6' roof overhang on all sides and my logs are all naturally round with no flat surfaces for water to suck into.

I am sorry that I don't know the solution. I do know that it is perhaps the commonest problem in the kit house industry and you are definitely not alone. Google "kit house rotten logs".

PS... My feet are in the hammock that is suspended from the rafters some 6 feet from the log wall.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220823/71ebdd5897aff9cad14082db7c830818.jpg

[loghousenut]

There! I never used tapatalk before.[emoji51]


Sent from my iPad using TapatalkI guess I was wrong. You aren't stupid at all.

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[voodoo1306]

I hate being the bad guy but someone has to start the discussion.

Unfortunately, I fear this is a system failure that is common in the kit log house industry. We, here on this forum all have one thing in common... we are all building a non-kit log home to avoid several of the problems that you have inherited.

Before we see more photos I'll take a stab at your home's problem.

1... Your "logs" have been milled on the tops and bottoms where they rest on each other. The horizontal joints are flat, fitting tightly together. Any water that finds a way to that joint sucks itself in as far as it can and tries to stay there. It then promotes fungus that promotes decay.

Test this theory by putting a 2x4 flat on top of another board in the weather. Within weeks you'll see the fungus growing between the boards.

2... Your roof overhangs are not long enough to prevent rain water soaking the walls. This is not a problem for a normal stick framed house because the walls are water resistant.

It is a serious problem for a home built with the boards (referring back to the flat on flat scenario in point 1) that have a potential water sucking inlet every 6" as the rain runs down the wall. You could spend two lifetimes recaulking and resealing every exterior crack, but the house is made of wood and it wants to twist, shift, and breath. I think you are correct that the "stain" is not helping the problem but I suspect that removing it will not solve it.

Gutters are not enough. Longer roof overhangs or a complete wraparound porch is what it takes to keep the logs dry. This is exhasperate by the deck that fits tightly against the wall.

Take a good look at this LHBA website and you'll quickly see that your problem is totally what we lifetime LHBA members are all here to avoid. Personally, my home has a minimum 6' roof overhang on all sides and my logs are all naturally round with no flat surfaces for water to suck into.

I am sorry that I don't know the solution. I do know that it is perhaps the commonest problem in the kit house industry and you are definitely not alone. Google "kit house rotten logs".

PS... My feet are in the hammock that is suspended from the rafters some 6 feet from the log wall.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220823/71ebdd5897aff9cad14082db7c830818.jpg

So the only answer is “deal with it”?


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[loghousenut]

It's kinda like having a St Bernard that sheds a lot. If you'd asked me earlier I'da suggested a sweet little Chihuahua with short hair and no slobber. I know you are asking for the cure but, like the dog issue, the cure can feel like slicing off your favorite appendage with an old tuna fish can lid.

It is something to live with. Unless the roof is thrashed, it won't make financial sense to put a bigger roof on it.

The wrap around porch is probably the cheapest way to control water hitting the walls and it would only help the resale value.

The "stain" is an issue that comes mostly down to aesthetics and long term plans. Here at our place, my Wife makes those decisions.

The deck should not touch the log walls unless water never, ever pools there, even a little bit.

Then there is that darned existing rot. That stuff is more painful than eating cherry pie with your dentures out and finding all three pits in one slice. It just has to be completely found and completely fixed.

It can be as simple as carving out the outer parts of the log and filling, either with new wood or epoxy mixed with new wood. I have done epoxy repair using this product..

Heck, we haven't even started ot chemical treatments. No rush. They are not the cure.

I'm sorry I'm not more help. It sounds like the former owner tried to talk you out of it. I had a first wife like that. She was pretty high maintenance and every true friend I had tried to warn me. It's been almost 50 years and I am mostly over the painful parts.

https://www.rotdoctor.com/

The proper method involves hoitsing the wall, removing rotten logs, and setting the wall down again. It is nice to know where the wiring and plumbing is for this task. I've done it. It's doable but no fun.



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[eagle]

loghousenut really has some knowledge and a good explanation. I cringed when I saw the picture, I really couldn't imagine having to fix that. Addressing the cause would be first. If it were me, I would try the digging out method, having to raise the wall could open up a can of worms, just my thought, never done it.

[voodoo1306]

I spoke with the home manufacturer. They said cut the bad out, use sledge hammer to drive new in, no hoisting of walls. They were the ones that told me the paint was causing the rot. Said stain will allow then to dry and not rot

[loghousenut]

Find some owners of the same style of build and see if they have some insight.

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[dgrover13]

I spoke with the home manufacturer. They said cut the bad out, use sledge hammer to drive new in, no hoisting of walls. They were the ones that told me the paint was causing the rot. Said stain will allow then to dry and not rotMy next door neighbor had similae issue as picfures above. Rotting due to poor roof design.

They replaced a lot of logs as you said and added a wrap around to fix porch. On top of that they walnut blasted the entire thing then stained it. Now good as new[emoji120]

I think they put about 40k into it back in 2018, northern wisconsin.


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[DoubleJRanch]

So the only answer is “deal with it”?


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Colored stain looks just like paint, smells like paint (water based laytex) and goes on like paint. If it was paint vs stain, it would of all peeled off by now in sheets. Stain is a better option. I see cracks in the logs, no sealer on them. Like any siding, joints, seams all need to be checked and sealed. Lack of overhang and the rot being where it is, could be water splashing on deck, it will usually hit the siding up about that distance. I see algae growing on the deck too, so is this a shady moist side of the home.
Water stains are visible running down the siding. What do the gutters look like.

The good news is, you have a dowel pin home with no saddle notches, butted into a timber in the corner. If you can get the same size dowel pins, you can probably remove rotted ones and slide in new. Or could frame it in with dimensional lumber and then just replicate the outer contour and screw it onto the framing, so be like a faux log.

[voodoo1306]

Colored stain looks just like paint, smells like paint (water based laytex) and goes on like paint. If it was paint vs stain, it would of all peeled off by now in sheets. Stain is a better option. I see cracks in the logs, no sealer on them. Like any siding, joints, seams all need to be checked and sealed. Lack of overhang and the rot being where it is, could be water splashing on deck, it will usually hit the siding up about that distance. I see algae growing on the deck too, so is this a shady moist side of the home.
Water stains are visible running down the siding. What do the gutters look like.

The good news is, you have a dowel pin home with no saddle notches, butted into a timber in the corner. If you can get the same size dowel pins, you can probably remove rotted ones and slide in new. Or could frame it in with dimensional lumber and then just replicate the outer contour and screw it onto the framing, so be like a faux log.

What is best for sealing cracks?


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[DoubleJRanch]

What is best for sealing cracks?


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Personally, I like DAP 230, it comes in clear, white, brown...
Its acrylic laytex, lots of elasticity so holes during movement from expanding or shrinking. Any crack on top of logs and joints should be sealed.

Best to do it after its been really dry for a long time. I just used it on a log project and I also used Behr outdoor solid color stain in water base. I had it custom mixed, stains can be mixed for color just like a paint. Seals the wood. I have some check cracks show up, I sealed them, lots of overhand, I sealed them more just for appearance.

https://i.postimg.cc/8kX3bfVs/20220516-114157-resized-2.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/gkDKKfhs/20220516-115923.jpg

[voodoo1306]

Personally, I like DAP 230, it comes in clear, white, brown...
Its acrylic laytex, lots of elasticity so holes during movement from expanding or shrinking. Any crack on top of logs and joints should be sealed.

Best to do it after its been really dry for a long time. I just used it on a log project and I also used Behr outdoor solid color stain in water base. I had it custom mixed, stains can be mixed for color just like a paint. Seals the wood. I have some check cracks show up, I sealed them, lots of overhand, I sealed them more just for appearance.

https://i.postimg.cc/8kX3bfVs/20220516-114157-resized-2.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/gkDKKfhs/20220516-115923.jpg

That looks just like the “stain” on my house, same color too. It seems to act like a paint, ie traps water behind it.


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[DoubleJRanch]

That looks just like the “stain” on my house, same color too. It seems to act like a paint, ie traps water behind it.


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How does a stain act?

You mention looks like paint. I did say it looks and smells like paint, it goes on like paint, but its a stain.

You mention same color too, I saw different color and very thin coat. Who colored it, ask them.

I wouldnt put it on wet wood, make sure you material is dry, then seal it. I have about 7 picnic tables that set in the weather all year long with no issue.

Traps water behind it? How is water getting behind it?

I'm not sure if you here for help or just to argue.

I see this all the time at my job, people are upset about something then "bark" at people trying to help because of being angry at the problem. And then dont really listen to anything anyone is saying.

Good luck, I'm done.