Disassemble/move a free log cabin

[camochris01]

Hi all,

I'm new here. After reading alot of the forum posts, this looks like a great community to be a part of.

I have an opportunity to obtain a log cabin for free if I can move it. The current owners want to build new in its place, and haven't been able to find a feasible way to get the current one out of the way, other than demolition. Demolition is planned to start 2 weeks from now.

It is 24' wide, 36' long, 33' tall. Vaulted ceiling in front, with a loft at the back. Poured concrete basement. Large brick fireplace. The logs are not full length, so lots of joints in the walls. The logs are swedish cope/saddle notched and pinned together with 12" spikes.

If moved, I would put it on a 1 acre lot 1.5 miles from its current location and sell it (hopefully for a profit?).
If disassembled, I would find a more ideal location for my needs, and live in it.
Does anyone have experience moving or disassembling something like this? Please be blunt... I'd rather avoid getting neck-deep in a project I can't afford to finish.

I have pictures if anyone is interested in seeing them. Not sure how to get those in a thread yet.

Thanks,
Chris

[rckclmbr428]

I've done a couple, if it's in good shape ie no rotted logs its all about labeling each and every log in a couple of ways, documenting extensively where everything is and how it has gone together and then carefully taking it apart. A telehandler is invaluable in the taking part and putting back together process

[camochris01]

Would it be practical to disassemble, considering the amount of rebar involved? I know the guy building the replacement, and he doesn't think so... but I'm pretty sure it's just because he doesn't want or have time to deal with the process.

[StressMan79]

Would it be practical to disassemble, considering the amount of rebar involved? I know the guy building the replacement, and he doesn't think so... but I'm pretty sure it's just because he doesn't want or have time to deal with the process.

Indeed. You can never remove rebar. I'd run from this project.

[rckclmbr428]

Spikes aren't necessarily rebar, and if it's coped, there may only be a few spikes to deal with

[camochris01]

In this case it is rebar. A window was added in the loft, and the guy said he hit it with his saw. Seemed to be randomly spaced. He guessed the size was 3/8". But let me get this building process straight... when these cabins are pinned together, my understanding of the process is as follows:
1. Foundation has rebar pins in it. Bottom logs are drilled with holes to fit over the foundation rebar.
2. Rebar is hammered into bottom logs half of the rebar length.
3. Top logs are drilled to fit the rebar that has been hammered into the bottom logs.
4. The top log in step 3 becomes the bottom log, rebar is hammered into it, and the process repeats itself.

If the above process was followed in construction, I should be able to lift each top log off, leaving the associated rebar hammered into it to deal with later. This sounds too easy... I must be missing something?
As a side note, the roof would be lifted off and scrapped.

[allen84]

"lift each top log off", may be easier said than done. Might be easier to cut the rebar in between the logs and drive it out after (or just leave it in there and move over when it's time to re-assemble). Better yet, you're moving it 1.5 mile, find someone that can move it for you without taking it completely apart. I saw a big old log home on a old farmers trailer one Sunday a few months ago (roof removed, just stacked logs, hung way off the sides of the trailer).

[rreidnauer]

Might be easier to cut the rebar in between the logs and drive it out after (or just leave it in there and move over when it's time to re-assemble)
Can't cut them. It's coped.

Moving it complete is probably the wiser choice if you decide to tackle the process.

[Arrowman]

Moving it complete is probably the wiser choice if you decide to tackle the process.

Without seeing the project, I'd have to second Rod's conclusion here. Less labor intensive on your part (since you will probably end up hiring a house mover to move it for you), and way less of a chance to start trying to take things apart and deal with all of the unknowns you will run into.

My advice on this

1. Only take the disassemble route if you have the tools and resources (extra hands and money) to deal with a lot of problems and you already have a good idea of what you are doing (i.e. are a construction professional or have done this before).
2. Only disassemble if you have a lot of time to work with, given it probably won't go as quickly or smoothly as you think it will.
3. Only move it if you have something permanent to set it on, or can afford to have someone move the house twice.
4. Only move if you have checked with your code officials. I am not sure how they treat moving houses and resetting up utilities to them. If they treat it as new construction and make you follow all of the new codes, you could be in for a real fun time of retrofitting the house. If they grandfather it in under the codes at time of construction, you should be ok.

[loghousenut]

In this case it is rebar. A window was added in the loft, and the guy said he hit it with his saw. Seemed to be randomly spaced. He guessed the size was 3/8". But let me get this building process straight... when these cabins are pinned together, my understanding of the process is as follows:
1. Foundation has rebar pins in it. Bottom logs are drilled with holes to fit over the foundation rebar.
2. Rebar is hammered into bottom logs half of the rebar length.
3. Top logs are drilled to fit the rebar that has been hammered into the bottom logs.
4. The top log in step 3 becomes the bottom log, rebar is hammered into it, and the process repeats itself.

If the above process was followed in construction, I should be able to lift each top log off, leaving the associated rebar hammered into it to deal with later. This sounds too easy... I must be missing something?
As a side note, the roof would be lifted off and scrapped.

If built this way it would allow the logs to settle and seal the gaps and yet allow less than full length logs to be used. Sounds like it oughta come apart and go back together.

Walk around the thing and poke it with a knife blade to see how much rot you have... especially the lower logs. Like Ronnie Rclmbr said, number them and make a detailed log of which is which and figure a system marking them that will not fail. I'd do an aluminum tag, stamped with a number, screwed to each end. You suspect that this baby will be restacked in 6 months but things are things and sometimes things make your logs sit around an extra year or two. Be sure to stack them well above the ground and I would lay 4x4 stickers between layers. If you are smart, they will come off the truck and stack in nearly the order they have to go back up.

Rent a telehandler and find some dependable help and get it out of their way in less time than agreed. The deal doesn't work if you screw the former owners.

This thing might be the start of your retirement nest egg if you follow through. Good luck and don't come whining to me if you get all sweaty and discouraged in the middle. Log homes and babies require a bit of sweat somewhere in their development.

[ivanshayka]

Besides free materials, it might be easier to build one LHBA style.

[loghousenut]

Besides free materials, it might be easier to build one LHBA style.

Ivan's only saying that because he hates telehandlers. I am not so limited. This thing could happen fast if you are organized.

[camochris01]

So, against my better judgement (because, what the heck, it'll make a great story either way), I am going to plan as if I am moving forward with the project.

Here's what I've got so far:
Every salvageable piece will be marked consistently with some sort of numbering system. I'm thinking cattle ear tags stapled to one end of each log, starting from one corner and moving clockwise around the building, working from the bottom up. only one tag each, because that will easily determine which end goes where.

Remove the roof by cutting with a powersaw from side to side between each large timber rafter. hoist each rafter/roof section with a log truck loader, to be disassembled on the ground. Of course, roof sections are scrapped, rafter timbers are salvaged.

Pull each log off the top of the now exposed wall with the log truck loader. Easy because the logs aren't more than 8' long right. Of course, we'd test this first. If it doesn't work for some reason, plan B is to pry them apart from the ends, cut the rebar as needed. Plan C is to drop the project. Take a less than $1000 loss. Gain experience.

Probably won't mess with the flooring.
Windows and doors and furnishings have been mostly claimed by other entrepreneurial types.

Store for a year or more until I can obtain the perfect property.

Tell me, would I be further ahead to buy a kit for $20,000? I know I know, kits are the Devil. But let's compare apples to apples here. Or maybe buy fresh logs and rebar for $? and take a class for $?

If there's any interest, perhaps I'll make a timelapse video of the whole project.

[loghousenut]

I wish I was there

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[ivanshayka]

I would use B and T

[rreidnauer]

Tell me, would I be further ahead to buy a kit for $20,000? I know I know, kits are the Devil. But let's compare apples to apples here. Or maybe buy fresh logs and rebar for $? and take a class for $?
I think you probably already know the answer is option 3.

Apples to apples. A kit is just the shell. One should be able to acquire logs and put up the superstructure for that kind of money you speak of. So a kit you have 5" thick walls, B&P you have a range of 10 to 24+ thick walls, depending on what you can get your hands on.

My neighbor's place is a kit home. I don't live in a terribly frigid climate, and he is always complaining of being too cold, and his heating costs too high. He also says he very jealous that I'm basically building his dream home right next door to him.

Kits aren't all that rosy when the apples get put in a line-up.

[rocklock]

Would it be practical to disassemble, considering the amount of rebar involved? and he doesn't think so... but I'm pretty sure it's just because he doesn't want or have time to deal with the process.

If the "logs" are pinned with re-bar, I doubt you will be able to pull the logs off...

If I were in your place, I would attempt to separate the logs first leaving most of the roof on... A neighbor was given a LHBA type of log home that was never finished with a roof. He wanted to use the logs for fire wood. He has two 20.000 lb track hoes. He attempted to use them to separate the logs. He failed. He ended up using a chain saw to separate large pieces so he could load them in his dump truck... He told me that he would never attempt that again...

Again, I would make no commitments about removing anything until I tried to separate the logs...

[Axeman15]

There is one option. Apparently it happened to a guy our instructor talked about. He was able to use a helicopter and move the whole thing. Size may be very prohibitive as far as expense and complications.

Some chopper operators need to log training hours.. this would be a Herculean task .
Nothing easy will be done on this project , I agree, marking, labeling and then relieving spiking of purchase. If you do decide to undertake this project , might I suggest lots of pictures!

[allen84]

I worked with a man from Ohio who lifted his family's entire historic log home to dig and pour a full underground basement (no helicopters). I guess heli-lift could be one way to do it but flying over other peoples property might be a slight liability.

[logguy]

Why couldn't you just throw the 6' strap around a top log, take up the slack with the tele, and start cutting rebar every two feet with a reciprocating saw? Rebar cuts like butter.


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[lynncherl]

You probably aren't going to be able to lift top logs without cutting rebar off for two reasons: Every top log is also a bottom log (except the real top log) and any two rebar pieces are never perfectly parallel.

[allen84]

You probably aren't going to be able to lift top logs without cutting rebar off for two reasons: Every top log is also a bottom log (except the real top log) and any two rebar pieces are never perfectly parallel.

I agree with this and think that getting in between to cut the pins might be the only way to do it. You just won't know what the best method is until you try. We just had our house re-roofed. Finished less than a week ago. We had tornados and strong straight line winds this morning. I thought God might remove my new roof. You know that squeaking noise of pulling nails from wood? That's all I could hear from my bed. I figured getting up would be a waste of time. I said to my wife, "I wonder if we need to worry about a tornado?" She told me the radio was on and would let us know. Radio started screaming tornado warning about 60 seconds later. When the wind stopped, the silence was deafening. No damage to the new roof but I thought about calling the roofer to pull his leg and tell him it all blew away ;)