Can I use timbers cut from my own trees?

[Brewers]

I'm wanting to cut my own structural timbers for the open gabels and to support my deck. I have standing and a few wind fall Ponderosa Pines and Douglas Fir. Can I mill say 6x6 timbers with my chain saw and use them in construction? Do I need to "season" them? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks very much,

The Brewers

[rreidnauer]

Yes! Of course you can. I plan on building the majority of my home from the timber on the property I acquire. Seasoned would definitely be best before cutting to dimension, but with some careful planning, even green materials can be cut and dried, if you can determine the shrink directions and percentages.

[RockEngineer]

If you are in an area where there are building codes and building inspection, the codes require that at least surface dry beams and studs be used and that the wood be graded. This is usually not a big problem. Inspections of your sawn lumber can be done by certified inspectors usually for a reasonable price. Just be aware that this inspection may be required.

[JeffandSara]

Richard--

I think I very VAGUELY remember hearing when Jeff and I considered this in the early stages of our house that up-sizing the beams can sometimes soften (or eliminate?) the need for graded beamery. Do you know if there's any validity to that? or is my recollection totally off? :oops: :lol:


Obviously, as you said, requirements are different everywhere. The counties on two sides of ours I'm sure would not take ungraded beams under any circumstances. And it seems like the very idea of "up-sizing" the beams would indicate engineering had been done (which, if not otherwise necessary, would counter some of the cost savings of milling one's own, I guess, right?)

But I was curious if you had any input on this side of the issue?

Sara :D

[RockEngineer]

There are some areas that I work with here in Washington that let you use ungraded logs if you increase the diameter 2" larger than the minimum required using No. 1 graded lumber.

Some areas may let you do the same with beams but I haven't found them here. There are a few areas I work in that don't push the grading requirements of beams and sawn lumber at all. If it's not graded, you want to make sure it is good quality timber without lots of knot holes on the top or bottom edge.

[Brewers]

I appreciate all of the feedback. I'll do some research here locally and see what I come up with as far as the grading is concerned. We're not breaking ground for another 6 weeks, so I have a little time.