Best methods for Log Home construction?

[marko]

I recently found the website for LHBA while researching best construction methods for Log Homes. I want to take the class but need an explanation concerning some of the claims.
For instance:
1) LHBA claims that the Butt and Pass method does not experience log shrinkage and settling like other building methods. Can someone explain why this is? Can this be guaranteed?
2) LHBA also recommends that one should take the class approximately 2 years prior to building. Why is this recommended?
3) What is used for Chinking as this is also a concern?

Any info would be appreciated so I can decide on taking the class. Is the class helpful for building a quality home?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help with my concerns.

[loghousenut]

1... LHBA method allows building with green, unseasoned logs. They will shrink but they are held to each other tightly with rebar pins that keep them at the same distance from each other. Your wall will not settle. No screw jacks. No broken windows. No stuck doors. No settling space over doors and windows. Seen it a bunch of times myself and there are tons of them out there proving it every day. Don't know what kind of a guarantee anyone could offer but I can assure you it has worked for me and I have never heard of it not working.

2... Part of the allure of this method is that you and your buddies can build your own house with your own hands. That attracts a lot of folks who want to do it all without a 30 year mortgage. That takes a bit of lifestyle arranging and it costs a bit of time. I think it is worth the wait and I am not alone.

3... It will be your log home so you can use whatever you want for chinking. Some use latex based commercial chinking products, but most use a proven LHBA mortar mixture. It is dirt cheap, very durable and it looks cool. I am using mortar on mine.

Quality home? Mine will be standing as solid as a rock when my Great Grandkids inherit the thing.



http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Ron8_zps8710f59a.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/loghousenut/media/Ron8_zps8710f59a.jpg.html)

[loghousenut]

Did anyone mention how long this thing has been going on? It is a tried and true system and it works. If you want to swap sweat for equity, and end up with a home for your family and your heirs, you're in the right place... Take the class.


http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/P1020699_zps5uq9oor2.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/loghousenut/media/P1020699_zps5uq9oor2.jpg.html)

[rreidnauer]

If I had a dollar for every time that first question has been asked . . . .

Keep reading Marko. We've all been there. :-)

[donjuedo]

Quality home? Mine will be standing as solid as a rock when my Great Grandkids inherit the thing.


Then they can finish it. LOL!

[panderson03]

I recently found the website for LHBA while researching best construction methods for Log Homes. I want to take the class but need an explanation concerning some of the claims.
For instance:
1) LHBA claims that the Butt and Pass method does not experience log shrinkage and settling like other building methods. Can someone explain why this is? Can this be guaranteed?
2) LHBA also recommends that one should take the class approximately 2 years prior to building. Why is this recommended?
3) What is used for Chinking as this is also a concern?

Any info would be appreciated so I can decide on taking the class. Is the class helpful for building a quality home?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help with my concerns.
1) the logs still do shrink. all logs will shrink. they shrink toward their centers. because of how we connect the logs, while the logs do shrink the walls do not 'settle' :)
2) the class teaches not only how to build but how to do it efficiently and at the least cost. because of this, builders will need time to prepare before actually building
3) mortar is what most of us use. a combination of Portland cement, sand and lime (plus water :))

welcome.
glad you found us!

[thoner7]

brick mortar is used for chinking held in my galvanized nails or masons mesh, with insulation stuffed in behind.

[Chuck G]

Marko,

As a recent graduate of the class, I'll give you my view in addition to what has already been said. That Vegas weekend cost us roughly $2,500. $1,500 for the class (wife took with me), another $600 for the hotel (holiday weekend rates suck) and another $400 for fuel and food. The wife and I both agreed (That's priceless in itself!) that if that weekend had cost us 100 times more, it would still be a steal!

We plan to retire in 5 years. Taking the class now has given us the confidence and knowledge to make that happen. In fact, I'd honestly say we took it just in time! I don't know if 2 years prep time is truly enough, at least for what we want to do and what we want to retire on.

[eduncan911]

Others have mentioned all reasons above (and in many many other posts!).

But I'll add onto #2: what you'll find is that the LHBA method recommends things for many reasons, not just one or two.

One not mentioned for #2: curation of materials. Taking it two years ahead of time gives you time to start searching for the right tools, mostly used and on CL, for cheap. It gives you time to work with your local building department (s) and inspectors, approvals, permits, and any other permissions you need.

It gives you time to carefully make your lifestyle changes to do it all without a mortgage, if your soul desires.

It's been three years this weekend for my family and I since I took the class. It was about 2 years until I found just the perfect land for the cheap price (I shared how I stole it on the members side). With the right of way issues and permits, we're up to 3 years and some felled trees ATM. So we're getting there. ETA is 2016 for our OC.

[marko]

Hello to All.
Thank you for taking the time to respond to my questions. I appreciate the help and advice from those who have walked the path before me. I will be on the look out for future class dates. Also, additional questions. Has anyone experienced logs that decay and how would a decaying log be replaced? What type of wood is recommended for building? My understanding is that Cedar is the best choice to resist moisture and bugs and insects. Is there a tried and true method for lasting log preservation? Any first hand knowledge or experience with this?

A good evening to you all.

[StressMan79]

Hello to All.
Thank you for taking the time to respond to my questions. I appreciate the help and advice from those who have walked the path before me. I will be on the look out for future class dates. Also, additional questions. Has anyone experienced logs that decay and how would a decaying log be replaced? What type of wood is recommended for building? My understanding is that Cedar is the best choice to resist moisture and bugs and insects. Is there a tried and true method for lasting log preservation? Any first hand knowledge or experience with this?

A good evening to you all.

Yes. Easiest not to replace, keep em dry. An easy fairly nontoxic treatment is revealed in class. I still got carpenter ants. Ellsworth told me about termidor. No more carpenter ants.

[rreidnauer]

Yea, pretty easy to prevent rot if following taught methods in class. One member has even toyed with the idea of chemical petrification. It would actually make the logs firePROOF! Don't know if it would be rot/bug proof too.

[marko]

StressMan79, Thanks for the info. Every bit of info helps as I research the pros and cons of this type home construction.

[marko]

Rreidnauer, Thanks for your response. I am sure there are many methods and processes to employ in order to preserve the logs. I will also continue to research this as well.

[marko]

Loghousenut, I wanted to respond to you directly since you were the first to respond to my first post. Thanks for your response to my questions. You provided good detailed info that helps me as I continue to research the idea of building a log home. Thanks again.

[edkemper]

Marko,

All the pertinent research is why we go to the class. All the general research you are trying to do now is covered in the class. In fact, there is so much research you cannot possibly retain it all. That is why the real value of taking the class is becoming a member of our association and getting on the member's side of the forum. That is where the real meat and potatoes are explained in detail and from every angle.

[allen84]

I finished class yesterday. Currently sitting in the Vegas airport anticipating getting home to get the show on the road (er... The Logs on the foundation :). I did exactly what you are doing. If you do your research and are handy it could be done without the class.... BUT, it was worth every penny for the wealth of information and printed materials you'll go home with. I haven't seen the members side yet but I now have all the confidence and knowledge I felt I was lacking to tackle the project and deal with inspectors. You won't be disappointed.

[Little Eagle]

I finished class yesterday. Currently sitting in the Vegas airport anticipating getting home to get the show on the road (er... The Logs on the foundation :). I did exactly what you are doing. If you do your research and are handy it could be done without the class.... BUT, it was worth every penny for the wealth of information and printed materials you'll go home with. I haven't seen the members side yet but I now have all the confidence and knowledge I felt I was lacking to tackle the project and deal with inspectors. You won't be disappointed.

Way to go Allen i hope you had as much as i did! And see you on the right side!

[loghousenut]

Also glad to hear it, Allen. I think the deal you get on house plans makes the class a bargain in its own right. You'll go nuts on the members side of the forum.