Milled Log Additional Chinking

[jwwbrennan]

We have a milled log home with foam strips between the two tongue-and-grooves:

http://featherstudio.com/images/WebPosts/LogJoints1.jpg

I'll be stripping, brightening and staining soon with Defy Extreme and would like to add Energy Seal and 1/4" backer rod between the logs to add a little insulation (cold, windy area close to ocean) and discourage insects (close to trees).

http://featherstudio.com/images/WebPosts/LogJoints.jpg

Is this likely to create any problems?
I would do it when the walls are dry but wonder if there is any potential to trap moisture or in general cause problems I haven't considered.
It seems straight forward but then again it's the only house we have.

[rckclmbr428]

It looks like the gaps are tight enough to not need backer rod, you will have a heck of a time trying to force 1/4" backer rod into an 1/8" crack.

[jwwbrennan]

It looks like the gaps are tight enough to not need backer rod, you will have a heck of a time trying to force 1/4" backer rod into an 1/8" crack.

I've tested a small run of backing rod at various locations and it fits well enough to accommodate Energy Seal over the top. I just looked at the photo...the depth of the curved log joint front to back (rather than top to bottom) is deceptive. Oh wait, are you saying the sealant could work without the backing rod? That would be nice.

thanks
Jim

[rreidnauer]

Looks like a joint small enough to not require backer rod to me too.

[jwwbrennan]

Looks like a joint small enough to not require backer rod to me too.

I gotta like agreeable advice from people who know their stuff.
If the worst case is some of the sealant would separate from one log or the other than that just can't be a problem. I won't order any backing rod.

Thanks folks,
Jim

[rocklock]

accommodate Energy Seal over the top.
Jim;
I have used chinking in the tube (log jam). I believe this is exactly the right product for these cracks. I have been able to seal up to 1/2 in checks and splits in my logs. I used it when some cracks were 1/4 and then opened. It is stretchable but not that much...

[rreidnauer]

I do enough caulking (on things other than log homes) to feel confident you'll be fine. Cut your tip size to be no bigger than the gap size, (a little smaller is better) and cut it square. Hold gun perpendicular to slightly pointing the direction you are caulking and apply caulk at a rate where it almost comes out from under the tip. This will sufficiently fill the gap and not have bleed-over. If you get too much going, stop and clean the tip. Excess on logs may be better to let cure and peel off, instead of smearing it around trying to get it off before it cures. If you get the technique right, you don't need to smooth the caulk with a finger. (usually resulting in making a smeary mess)

[jwwbrennan]

Dave;

Thanks, looks great but no dealers listed for my area.

[jwwbrennan]

Rod;

I'll copy out your instructions and follow them.

Thanks again
Jim