PDA

View Full Version : Peeling Logs



gepper
01-06-2014, 04:28 PM
Does the bark (oak) come off easier immediately after felling or if the log is allowed to sit a while?

StressMan79
01-07-2014, 11:47 AM
Within a couple days is best. That or let them alone for a couple years. Sap turns to epoxy once it dries.

eagle
01-07-2014, 03:21 PM
Within a couple days is best. That or let them alone for a couple years. Sap turns to epoxy once it dries.
Is that another reason to cut in the winter, less sap, easier debarking??

StressMan79
01-07-2014, 03:45 PM
Not really. Summer cut is easier, so long as you peel as soon as the tree hits the ground.

Loghound
01-07-2014, 08:34 PM
Anyone have any experience with the log peeler that hooks on the end of a chainsaw?

lilbluehonda
01-08-2014, 02:38 AM
Yeah the log Wizard,it scars the log up and makes a really big mess,it throws the bark and sap back at you it was a big pain to use

Tom Featherstone
01-08-2014, 04:57 AM
More than one way to skin a cat!

Winter cut, you have to wait until they thaw out and then have a limited time before they dry out. Summer cut with the sap flowing can be easy and I agree with Peter, you better peel them right away.

Some find this part to be the most difficult as to the many variables. Using a peeling spud on a call it a "wet" log is pretty easy. Scraping a "dry" log is really hard as is scraping a "wet" log. Not everyone gets "wet" logs and you have to do, what you have to do, to get it off, is the bottom line.

God willing, I'm looking forward to peeling our house logs this spring. I've been whittling and scraping on wood since I was a kid and I'll bet ya that most folks here have been too. I've drawn plenty of "pulp" wood with a draw knife and I whole heartedly believe the "peeling spud" is the way to go. The right tool for the right job. It's learning the tool and the correct use of it. Trying to scrape bark off a log also s _ _ ks.... imho

I've been practicing with the spud since I took the class. I now know how to deal with the variables, thanks to those in the LHBA family.

Welcome Aboard! Be as a "sponge" while in class. Believe it! It only gets Better!

Tom

CrossingtheRubicon
01-09-2014, 04:38 AM
I've seen some people use a pressure washer with a turbo nozzle to remove the bark and it seems like a good way to do it if you are the only person peeling the logs.

Tim - Canada
10-10-2015, 06:10 AM
I can't recall from the class the response to my questions. Do they recommend winter cut and peel in the spring or spring cut. Pro of winter being less cracking" but harder to peel in the spring. Pro spring easier to peel but more pron to cracking and bugs. What is the most efficient method to get the tree dried with the fewest cracks?

rocklock
10-12-2015, 01:24 PM
I have 63 logs in my home... mostly Doug Fir. All were treated just about the same.All were winter cut and pealed my May 10th of that years. Some logs have few cracks some have many many cracks. All logs that have stress have many cracks. Many of my wall logs have no major cracks...

It is my belief that some logs will crack regardless and all logs under stress will crack.

mountainguide
11-27-2015, 06:45 AM
I can't recall from the class the response to my questions. Do they recommend winter cut and peel in the spring or spring cut. Pro of winter being less cracking" but harder to peel in the spring. Pro spring easier to peel but more pron to cracking and bugs. What is the most efficient method to get the tree dried with the fewest cracks?

If I remember correctly from class. A winter cut is best for outer strength due to the cambrian layer under the bark (darker harder, protective barrier) In the spring it is easiest to peel but the cambrian layer is covered with another newer layer (whitesh clear) (less protection). Does it make that much of a difference in the long run if you are going to seal and stain. I'm not sure. I hope I got that right.

StressMan79
11-27-2015, 04:18 PM
If I remember correctly from class. A winter cut is best for outer strength due to the cambrian layer under the bark (darker harder, protective barrier) In the spring it is easiest to peel but the cambrian layer is covered with another newer layer (whitesh clear) (less protection). Does it make that much of a difference in the long run if you are going to seal and stain. I'm not sure. I hope I got that right.
You mean "cambium"

Sent from my VS986 using Forum Runner

loghousenut
11-27-2015, 05:54 PM
Nice thing about that Cambrian layer is all those Trilobitian bark beetles.

mountainguide
11-28-2015, 06:50 AM
You mean "cambium"

Sent from my VS986 using Forum Runner

Yes your right. We are talking about trees not layers of the earth. My bad. LOL

rocklock
11-29-2015, 11:53 AM
Do they recommend winter cut and peel in the spring or spring cut.
What is the most efficient method to get the tree dried with the fewest cracks?
The association recommends winter cut I believe... I also believe that Douglas Fir has a ton of sap inclusions which if summer cut will be a mess. Winter cut will be less so... I started to count the number of sap inclusions that I had and lost count after just looking at my floor let alone all the dimensional lumber that I made. I had sap running all over the place for about three years...

I am unsure why Tim is concerned with the log drying other than the shrinking effects. It took about 4 years for the logs to stop shrinking and most of my logs were 11 inch tops.

bkinmore
12-10-2015, 04:11 PM
Anyone use the Bosworth log peeler disk before?

rocklock
12-10-2015, 07:38 PM
Anyone use the Bosworth log peeler disk before?

Log peeling is a pain, literally. We as a group have tried everything. From power washer to chain saw someone has tried it. The Bosworth disk will have a problem with 40 foot logs that are wet and weighs 2 to 3 tons each. Plus Doug fir (strongest soft wood and my favorite) has bark several inches thick.

This is how I peeled my logs. I still have the blue wonder. The long handle allows leverage and momentum. My son and I pealed about 8-10 logs a day. Less than two weeks and the job was done.

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s274/flintlock1/log%202007/IMG_2573.jpg

John W
12-11-2015, 08:33 AM
Man, those logs look perfect, Rock!

Nicolas
12-11-2015, 11:11 AM
I still have the blue wonder.


Have you found this one or made it yourself? I'm searching for a good one but still haven't found in traditional shop (like home depot or other)

rocklock
12-11-2015, 11:47 AM
Have you found this one or made it yourself? I'm searching for a good one but still haven't found in traditional shop (like home depot or other)

I had a fellow LHBA member come by with two. They were less than 20 bucks so I bought one after trying it... The actual name is Bark Spud. Scraper is also used. Dimensions, not more than 4 inches wide and about 5 feet high. I have seen many for sale, but I can't remember where... I do wish our store would carry these. Maybe just the metal piece and then one could buy the handle...

Plumb Level
12-11-2015, 11:50 AM
I have 3 of the same. 2 came from Harbor freight, and the other from Ace hardware. Then I have one with a heavier blade/handle. It proved to be to heavy when peeling all day, but I kept it. These tools are very useful when moving shrubs/small trees and needing to cut through roots. Or peeling back some sod.

I touched em up a couple times throughout the process with the grinder and it made a big difference.

Mosseyme
12-11-2015, 04:33 PM
I have found that one at Harbor Freight, Lowes, and Home Depot for $20-25. I bought one called a bark spud or something on line that was 5-6" wide and sharper for about $60. waste of money for us, no one likes it.

allen84
12-11-2015, 06:12 PM
We had one of those in the garage when I was a kid. It was my dad's favorite yard tool... Or he liked the name anyways! "The Mutt"
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=the+mutt+yard+tool

Blondie
12-11-2015, 09:06 PM
A couple of years ago, didn't we have this discussion and decided that power washing did the best job. Jason from Utah was doing his logs.

Blondie

BoFuller
12-12-2015, 12:40 AM
Peeling? What's that? 90% of the bark was gone when my logs were delivered. :)

rckclmbr428
12-12-2015, 02:41 AM
Bo never was very appeeling.......

eagle
12-12-2015, 07:26 AM
A couple of years ago, didn't we have this discussion and decided that power washing did the best job. Jason from Utah was doing his logs.

Blondie
That's what I remember, I keep that in the back of my mind for when the time comes.

rreidnauer
12-12-2015, 07:34 AM
That's what I remember, I keep that in the back of my mind for when the time comes.
Just to be clear, not just any pressure washer will work. The method requires the use of an appropriately sized turbo nozzle, and at least a 4 GPM, 3000 PSI washer, preferably larger.

Blondie
12-12-2015, 10:07 AM
If you aren't careful, you can get the fuzzies that is a b.... To sand out. Just saying.

Blondie

loghousenut
12-12-2015, 10:43 AM
Anyone use the Bosworth log peeler disk before?

This is all discussed in class till the cats come home to roost. Then, once you are on the member's side, there are a bunch of threads about log pealing that turn this into a boring subject... Plus, it is a boring subject, but you can't do a LHBA log home without it. Just thought I oughta put in my too since worth.



Did I ever tell you how to take a $.25 yard sale auger and weld a chunk of rebar onto it to make a 5' long drill bit? That it another boring topic that is done to death on the other side. Class is only the tip of the icetea.

allen84
12-12-2015, 06:41 PM
If you aren't careful, you can get the fuzzies that is a b.... To sand out. Just saying.

Blondie


This is very true... There was NEVER a DIY project my dad needed to be involved with. I will never forget when I was a kid and he "stained" the deck himself. If I remember correctly I think it was somewhere between safety orange and solid fire engine red and was not at all transparent or even translucent (bye bye wood grain)... He decided to try and pressure wash it off himself... Then he hired someone that knew what they were doing haha ;)

allen84
12-17-2015, 05:47 PM
I was out doing some Christmas shopping and stopped in harbor freight about an hour ago. Came across these and figured I grab one.... Along with some batteries and a French fry cutter.
http://www.harborfreight.com/lawn-garden/hand-tools/4-mutt-with-wood-handle.html

loghousenut
12-17-2015, 07:37 PM
I wanna know more about that french fry cutter. Without photos it didn't happen.

dvb
12-18-2015, 07:19 AM
Those are what I used for the majority of peeling my logs. Just sharpened them to a chisel edge.

Plumb Level
12-18-2015, 01:33 PM
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_13702.jpg

What do you say we all pitch in $50, give it to Rod, and let him design one of these big enough for logs? It would make quick work out of milling rafters and joists.

rreidnauer
12-18-2015, 01:38 PM
Pfft. Already built one last weekend.

donjuedo
12-18-2015, 03:01 PM
Except we didn't get any photos of that.

:-)

Basil
12-18-2015, 08:26 PM
didn't happen. No Photo

allen84
12-18-2015, 09:34 PM
I wanna know more about that french fry cutter. Without photos it didn't happen.

It happened. And if I'm too sick to attend family Christmas Sunday then it's officially mine and I'm bringing out the old Fry-Daddy.


http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj546/wherethere42/Mobile%20Uploads/EDF39D65-480E-42E6-B190-ED5E90CF7AE1.jpg (http://s1267.photobucket.com/user/wherethere42/media/Mobile%20Uploads/EDF39D65-480E-42E6-B190-ED5E90CF7AE1.jpg.html)

And a koozie that justifies my choice beverage.
http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj546/wherethere42/Mobile%20Uploads/AA2F2511-AA61-4CA3-882A-665783A6D981.jpg (http://s1267.photobucket.com/user/wherethere42/media/Mobile%20Uploads/AA2F2511-AA61-4CA3-882A-665783A6D981.jpg.html)

allen84
12-18-2015, 09:43 PM
I'll be extra careful tho because RX beer and hot cooking oil could be a disaster. My neighbor almost burned her house down after she made french fries for breakfast a while back... They actually interrogated her about it but let her go when she claimed to be "a grown arse woman who can eat fries in bed for breakfast if she wants!!!"

And the darn fireman told her the aloe she took from her aloe plant and was applying to her fresh 3rd degree burns wouldn't do anything to help.... The woman put the fire out herself before the fire truck got there and has no scars from the burns. The fire hall is about a quarter mile away.

John17three
03-12-2016, 04:55 PM
Just to be clear, not just any pressure washer will work. The method requires the use of an appropriately sized turbo nozzle, and at least a 4 GPM, 3000 PSI washer, preferably larger.

So my rental company has two different units, but neither are "ideal," I suppose. Would a 4000PSI with 3.5GPM or 3700PSI with 4GPM be better?

loghousenut
03-12-2016, 04:59 PM
Third option... That other rental company.

edkemper
03-12-2016, 05:09 PM
Find a dealer that goes by Liters per minute.

StressMan79
03-13-2016, 11:46 AM
This is just like Einstein's photo-electric effect. If you don't have enough momentum in your photon (hv), you can put all the energy you want, and no electrons will be expelled. Same way w/ pressure washer. If you don't have enough pressure, no matter how much flow, no bark will come off! That said, once you have the requisite pressure, more flow=faster bark removal.

Sent from my VS986 using Forum Runner

John17three
03-16-2016, 07:49 PM
Third option... That other rental company.

Thanks. Sent me back to Google, and I found a 5000PSI. I'll have to call and get the details, but I'm thinking it'll work. Thanks for shooting from the hip there. You probably thought you were just being smart, but in actuality, it was smart. ;-)

loghousenut
03-16-2016, 08:31 PM
I tend to bat about 300.

Chief700
03-29-2016, 09:30 AM
Good Morning All, Long time reader first time writer... We are getting close to signing up... Blah Blah Blah...

I think I have the opportunity to get Standing Dead trees for my logs. They will be a mix of Doug Fir and White Pine.
Is there a moisture content concern for using dead trees?
Will dried out logs split when driving multiple pieces of rebar along generally the same plane?
My dearly beloved is worried that dead trees that have already lost their bark and turned grey in color will not look good, will they freshen up when sanded and varnished?
She also thinks they need to be the same kind of logs, all Doug Fire for example?

I appreciate the conversation.

Thanks, Be Safe

We live outside Portland, our building lot is near Lake Wenatchee, WA

panderson03
03-29-2016, 09:42 AM
standing dead are perfect for this way of building
yes they will freshen up if you decide to go that route. power washing or media blasting should do the job well
welcome!

rreidnauer
03-29-2016, 10:08 AM
Yup, don't worry about moisture content. Cut it, and if no rot, you're golden.

Rebar won't split a log. Heck, most is drilled anyhow.

The graying is very superficial. Go take a piece of sandpaper and see for yourself.

There's no structural problem mixing species logs. Aesthetically, you might notice a slight shade difference, but with the rustic, whole log look, and concrete chinking, a little variation just seems natural. I've seen Red Pine mixed with Tamarack, and can't distinguish a difference now that it grayed out.

loghousenut
03-29-2016, 11:23 AM
I wish I woulda found those standing dead firs. As long as they are big enough and solid, they are just what I would have prefered .

sdart
03-29-2016, 11:55 AM
We used standing dead Lodgepole Pine. No problems at all, except they are already mostly peeled for you and lighter weight :)

rocklock
03-29-2016, 05:11 PM
I think I have the opportunity to get Standing Dead trees for my logs.
They will be a mix of Doug Fir and White Pine.
Is there a moisture content concern for using dead trees?
Will dried out logs split when driving multiple pieces of re-bar along generally the same plane?
will they freshen up when sanded and varnished?
She also thinks they need to be the same kind of logs, all Doug Fir for example?

Standing Dead are still wet, but use-able if there is not rot.
White pine in Washington? I wonder if they are not Hemfir... actually Hemlock or white fir... I have all three in my log home... I think matching taper is important...

Re-bar, with a blunt end will not split logs - wet or dry. The reason is the fibers are torn and compressed. Finish Carpenters use this trick all the time... Blunt the finish nail when in danger of splitting the wood.

Even fire killed logs will look good with enough elbow grease.

Again, I have three kinds of logs. Matching taper is important for wall logs. I would insure that my cap and ridge pole logs are Doug Fir along with my girders logs. Primarily because of their strength.

Remember, we are building log homes...

BoFuller
03-29-2016, 07:13 PM
I used dead standing and loved it.
No peeling!!!!!!
I sanded the gray off and got a beautiful blonde and then covered it with varathane (inside).
Outside is still the gray, not like my little brother's place. He caved in.
No problem with splitting, including the 5th log up, which not only has about 25 pieces of rebar in it, but also about 32 eight inch lag bolts, holding the second floor ledger board.

mudflap
03-30-2016, 10:24 AM
I noticed something with peeling mine: if I try to peel them within 1-4 days of cutting, it's almost impossible to peel. But if I wait till day 5, the bark comes off quite easily. Not sure what the reason might be...

loghousenut
05-29-2017, 12:48 AM
I thought I'd schemed every way there was to modify a perfectly useful tool into a log peeling machine. Don't know how efficient it is, but check out the peeling segment of this video from 1:48 to 4:02

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIhIANGvEIE

thoner7
05-29-2017, 05:00 PM
I used dead standing and loved it.
No peeling!!!!!!
I sanded the gray off and got a beautiful blonde and then covered it with varathane (inside).
Outside is still the gray, not like my little brother's place. He caved in.
No problem with splitting, including the 5th log up, which not only has about 25 pieces of rebar in it, but also about 32 eight inch lag bolts, holding the second floor ledger board.

How did you sand the gray off?

BoFuller
05-29-2017, 07:20 PM
How did you sand the gray off?

Wire brush (disc/wheel) that I put on my drill.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

rckclmbr428
05-30-2017, 02:57 AM
I thought I'd schemed every way there was to modify a perfectly useful tool into a log peeling machine. Don't know how efficient it is, but check out the peeling segment of this video from 1:48 to 4:02

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIhIANGvEIE

Just when you think there's no more ways to utilize a telehandler...

thoner7
05-30-2017, 04:34 AM
That must have taken forever right? I had a cup wheel on my angle grinder and sanded one log as a test. Took me an hour to do 1/4 log.

etd66ss
05-31-2017, 08:55 AM
I've peeled about 40 logs in my day, from trees that blew over. The goal was to get the bark off before they went to the sawmill.

What I found is, you need to fell the trees in early spring when it's real wet. There is a nice slippery water layer between the bark and the wood, and I was pulling off spruce & pine bark in gigantic sheets. I could do a 40ft log in less that 10 minutes.

If you let the log bake in the sun for even one day, it became exponentially harder to peel the bark off. If the log is in the sun for a week, you have a fight on your hands.

John17three
06-02-2017, 10:44 AM
I've peeled about 40 logs in my day, from trees that blew over. The goal was to get the bark off before they went to the sawmill.

What I found is, you need to fell the trees in early spring when it's real wet. There is a nice slippery water layer between the bark and the wood, and I was pulling off spruce & pine bark in gigantic sheets. I could do a 40ft log in less that 10 minutes.

If you let the log bake in the sun for even one day, it became exponentially harder to peel the bark off. If the log is in the sun for a week, you have a fight on your hands.

This must be species specific. Most of my SYP logs were cut in November and February, and just now I'm starting to get under the cambium to peel them in sheets/sections. The rain hasn't hurt the effort, either. :-)

etd66ss
06-03-2017, 07:59 PM
This must be species specific. Most of my SYP logs were cut in November and February, and just now I'm starting to get under the cambium to peel them in sheets/sections. The rain hasn't hurt the effort, either. :-)

I was peeling red pine and Norway spruce.