New Member

[jakeanderton920]

Hello,

I stumbled upon the site last week after reading some other sites and other forums on log cabin construction and design. This site gives me some hope in that it seems I won't have to fork down $200K+ to get a home I have always wanted.

The Butt & Pass method intrigues me very much and I am thinking of "going to the class" as so many speak of doing. I live in the Twin Cities (MN) and have been looking off and on for some time for a few acres west of here (not more than a 1hr drive to downtown).

We have some family land about 4hrs north of here where I can get a lot of trees from, but the drive may prove to be expensive in transporting 50+ logs that far. I called a local guy and he wanted $5/linear ft. for white pine logs in a 12" diameter - that seems to be a bit pricey from all I have read here on the site - am I wrong? Other than that, I don't really have any tools, nor much construction know how - so I am definitely a "newbie".

Is anyone else on the Forum near me that has constructed or is planning to construct a home with this method? Or anyone else planning to go to Vegas next month for the class?

Thanks.

[rreidnauer]

Four hours, so roughly 250 miles, you can probably get them moved for around $500/truckload if you really negotiate a cash deal with a driver. So say you need four truckloads. That would be $2000 for basically your entire superstructure. How's that not a good thing?!? :)

[project]

That's a great deal. I just spent $5000 just fixing a road from one mountain to the other to get my trees off my own property.

[jakeanderton920]

Well, let's say I want to build a smaller(?) log home 35 x 30 with 12" diameter logs. So, a 35' log would cost me $175, and a 30' log would cost me $150. I am just guessing I would need roughly 11 levels at 12" diameter to make for a main floor with a loft/2nd level? That would be about $3500, plus my ridge/roof poles, etc. and delivery fees.

In reading on the public forums, and from the way the class language read, it seemed there were cheaper ways to get the logs?

[jakeanderton920]

Well, let's say I want to build a smaller(?) log home 35 x 30 with 12" diameter logs. So, a 35' log would cost me $175, and a 30' log would cost me $150. I am just guessing I would need roughly 11 levels at 12" diameter to make for a main floor with a loft/2nd level? That would be about $3500, plus my ridge/roof poles, etc. and delivery fees.

In reading on the public forums, and from the way the class language read, it seemed there were cheaper ways to get the logs?

I misspoke - actually the cost is more like $7100, plus ridge/roof poles, etc. and delivery fees.

[project]

If you can get logs from family, all you will have is basically trucking.

[StressMan79]

Don't pay more than$2/ft for logs. $1 is a good deal.

Oh, and that is delivered.

[StressMan79]

Don't pay more than$2/ft for logs. $1 is a good deal.

Oh, and that is delivered.

Mine were $6000 / (50x27ft)+5@35ft...

Then again, the 27fters averaged 14 in diameter, and the 35s averaged 23in. 3 loads pulled a mile up my road with a cat...

[panderson03]

welcome Jake! good to see another Minnesotan here:)

[jakeanderton920]

Mine were $6000 / (50x27ft)+5@35ft...

Then again, the 27fters averaged 14 in diameter, and the 35s averaged 23in. 3 loads pulled a mile up my road with a cat...

I keep reading of varying sizes of log diameter for the build - is there a recommended diameter?

[jakeanderton920]

welcome Jake! good to see another Minnesotan here:)

I am in the western suburbs of the cities. Where are you located? Have you built yet, or still in the planning phase? If you attended the class, what did you think?

[ivanshayka]

Yeah, the recommended diameter is "use what u have". I am using 12 to 14 inch butts and 6.5 to 8 inch tops. This is what I have. Off my own land.

[jakeanderton920]

Ivan, I see you are in N. MI where it gets just as cold as it does here in MN. Have you built yet? If so, I have been wondering how one keeps the floor insulated in the winter with piers, or is it recommended to do a basement in the colder climates?

[Plumb Level]

Hello Jake and welcome.

You can insulate with piers, but there is some planning involved. But, with a frost line as deep as you are going to have there, your piers will be huge. For a few thousand more, or maybe even the same amount, you can have a basement.

Take the class and you will:

1. square up your plans for you build (32x32 instead of 30 x 35)
2. realize that with trees that close on family ground, you are already in about the best position possible to get your logs. Best position being the trees are on the build site already and your friendly neighbor is a lumberjack with a Stihl 066. He also likes the idea of sitting back and drinking beer while watching you try to build a house out of the trees he fell for you in exchange for said beer.
3. learn that lack of experience and lack of tools may be an asset, and it certainly won't hinder you. Your mind will be more open without having conventional construction experience. Tools - you will know how to acquire the right tools, and the best way to do that. All the tools I'm using are standard tools, although they would be thought of as heavy duty.

Class will answer so many questions for you, and give you some to ponder that you haven't thought of. It also gives you access to the members side of the forum. There is so much information on that side. To me, access to the members side is worth as much as the course workbook and the 2 days spent in class.

[Tom Featherstone]

Welcome Jake!

Your minimum log diameter will be determined by your local building code requirements for residential buildings, at least here in the UP. 12" minimums in the zone we're in. Check with the building dept. of where you wish to build to get that question answered.. The Bigger the better... more "R's" for those cold nights in MN.

Keep reading here. The sooner you take the class, the quicker you'll be on your way!

[panderson03]

I am in the western suburbs of the cities. Where are you located? Have you built yet, or still in the planning phase? If you attended the class, what did you think?

we live in EP, buiding in Ottertail County.

we did attend the class. were blown away by how much we learned in 2 days. the class exceeded expectations. we've saved a LOT of money by implementing what we've learned from class and these forums

we took the class in May 2009

in March 2010 started site clearing for our garage and cabin. that year we got the excavation and footers done for both structures, frost wall on garage AND walk out basement walls on the cabin finished, as well as getting 9 courses of logs up on the garage

in 2011 we finished the garage log walls, put up the garage roof and poured the garage cement floor

in 2012 we got the garage walks stained and chinked and got the walls up on the cabin

this year we put up all garage doors (3 for cars plus 2 service doors) and will frame in the work room and bathroom in the garage as well as getting the cabin under roor, pouring cabin cement floor and footers for all cabin porches and decks.

also on the agenda for this year are bucking all cabin windows and doors, staining and chinking the cabin. we'll see if we get all that done :)

really Jake being an owner builder makes for a LOT of work but we're in the best shape of our lives, we KNOW the workmanship and materials are all quality, and we won't owe anyone a CENT when we're done.

that's why we're doing it. well that and because our great grandchildren will hear tales by the campfire of grandma and grandpa who built it with their own hands from the ground up. love the thought that these structures last for hundreds of years.

glad you found us:)

[panderson03]

Ivan, I see you are in N. MI where it gets just as cold as it does here in MN. Have you built yet? If so, I have been wondering how one keeps the floor insulated in the winter with piers, or is it recommended to do a basement in the colder climates?

Hey Jake. I'm NOT IVAN:) but folks build this way in ALASKA too. they pretty much HAVE to use piers due to the permafrost. the cabins stay warm because of the insulation in the floor (from the way I understand it ) :)

[jakeanderton920]

[QUOTE=Plumb Level;91926]Hello Jake and welcome.

You can insulate with piers, but there is some planning involved. But, with a frost line as deep as you are going to have there, your piers will be huge. For a few thousand more, or maybe even the same amount, you can have a basement.

Take the class and you will:

1. square up your plans for you build (32x32 instead of 30 x 35)
QUOTE]

I am still scratching my head reading how most people do a square design. Not sure why that is so heavily promoted...

[jakeanderton920]

panderson03 - I am in Plymouth. The family land is just north of Itasca State Park.

My predicament is that the land up north is free - but there aren't any good jobs there. Currently, we are looking for land out west, maybe slightly even into Wright county (thought, preferably Hennepin) so that I can still commute into downtown for work. Acreage is awfully expensive, even just for 3-5 acres.

[panderson03]

there are other LHBAers in Plymouth:) infact one of them comes up to our build every weekend to get experience for HIS build (he plans on building in another state in a few years :)

yeah land is pretty expensive unless you go REALLY far north.

our build is about 180 miles away from our house/jobs. for now, that's OK as we do not plan on moving up to our build until we retire:)

Itasca State Park is so lovely!! you're very lucky:) Itasca State Park is about 100 miles away from our build.

[jakeanderton920]

there are other LHBAers in Plymouth:) infact one of them comes up to our build every weekend to get experience for HIS build (he plans on building in another state in a few years :)

yeah land is pretty expensive unless you go REALLY far north.

our build is about 180 miles away from our house/jobs. for now, that's OK as we do not plan on moving up to our build until we retire:)

Itasca State Park is so lovely!! you're very lucky:) Itasca State Park is about 100 miles away from our build.

Others in Plymouth!?!? Wow, never would have imagined it. How does one get in touch with these people? I wonder if these are folks who have taken the class...

We are approaching 30, so we still have to work for a bit longer ;) Yeah, the property up north is nice - 320 acres and all but 85 are woods. Lots of trees avilable but I think we have mostly poplar and birch - which I am not sure is a good for the house purpose. I haven't seen any list of good/bad woods for building. Getting the trees down here will be the coslty part. Did you build with "green" logs or seasoned?

[dvb]

"I am still scratching my head reading how most people do a square design. Not sure why that is so heavily promoted... "
1st square walls are easier to get the logs get level. Assume you have consistent taper on the logs, if one side is longer, those logs will be thicker or smaller at the corners than the shorter logs.
2nd Do the math: 30x35=1050 with 130 linear foot of exterior wall.
33x33=1089 with 132 Linear foot of exterior wall. You will get more sq. ft. of interior with less linear feet of wall.
Plan on taking the class and you will learn a lot more!

[panderson03]

Others in Plymouth!?!? Wow, never would have imagined it. How does one get in touch with these people? I wonder if these are folks who have taken the class...

We are approaching 30, so we still have to work for a bit longer ;) Yeah, the property up north is nice - 320 acres and all but 85 are woods. Lots of trees avilable but I think we have mostly poplar and birch - which I am not sure is a good for the house purpose. I haven't seen any list of good/bad woods for building. Getting the trees down here will be the coslty part. Did you build with "green" logs or seasoned?

YUP! others in PLYMOUTH :) unfortunately unless they see your posts here, there's no real good way to get a hold of them. I can tell them this weekend you're here though, so that might spur them on to catching up on the forums. really I don't think they've even logged in here for a couple years. probably won't do much on these forums until they start to build. then they'll practically LIVE on here (like I do) because there are experts on teh members side who are great about answering questions!

yep, they did indeed take the class

'approaching 30'? we have CHILDREN your age :) you're still young yet!! got lots of time to think through your building process!

Skip used to say 'build with what you've got'! as far as what logs to build with. there are folks here who've built with poplar; just need to take a couple extra steps to avoid too much checking I think.

we built with green logs. worked GREAT!

[Plumb Level]

about building square.....yeah, what Dean said (dvb).

Also, every log in your log pile is the same length...except the bigger ones needed to support the roof. Having all the wall logs the same gives you a lot more options and flexibility when you are looking for just the right log to bring a course of logs back to level......or Plumb Level......

[panderson03]

one more thing Jake. if you're interested in reading a wee bit about our build, under our avatar picture there's a 'blog entries 15' if you click on the '15' it will take you to some blog posts you can read. looks like neither of us is getting much work done today :)

[StressMan79]

Bigger is generally better. Cost goes up as the square of diameter. Walls are minimum of ten inches, but I would not use less than twelve. Beam pieces are sized by span tables.

[blane]

The bigger the better. If your logs are 9" at the tip and 12 at the butt you will have to stack more courses and will have more chinking. Mine averaged about 15" at the tip and 18 to 20 at the butt.

[jakeanderton920]

"I am still scratching my head reading how most people do a square design. Not sure why that is so heavily promoted... "
You will get more sq. ft. of interior with less linear feet of wall.
Plan on taking the class and you will learn a lot more!

That makes sense. Less chinking too. I guess I am more partial to a non square design. Not sure if the LHBA has any plans for anything other than square?

[jakeanderton920]

one more thing Jake. if you're interested in reading a wee bit about our build, under our avatar picture there's a 'blog entries 15' if you click on the '15' it will take you to some blog posts you can read. looks like neither of us is getting much work done today :)

I will have to take a look at your blog when in front of a computer. Do you ever have people come by to take a look at your build or lend a hand for a day?

[jakeanderton920]

StressMan79 & blane,

Where can I find a list of the best wood types to use and which to stay away from? That will dictate if I am able to cut logs on my land or have to go elsewhere.

[Mosseyme]

The class handbook has a lot of info about different kinds of trees to use for logs.

[panderson03]

Hey Jake. yes LHBAers help each other on their builds often, but only after taking the class.

[jakeanderton920]

Hey Jake. yes LHBAers help each other on their builds often, but only after taking the class.

Makes sense.

[StressMan79]

Most any log except palm will work. Douglas fir is a favorite in the northwest. I have seen lodgepole pine, spruces, southern yellow pine, and even poplar used. I bought a book on log building, but it wasn't half as informative as the class notes.

[loghousenut]

I must have 40 books on log house building. LHBA class makes them mostly obsolete. Class is what did it for me.

[jakeanderton920]

I know of the class in Aug and would like to attend it, if I can swing it. How often are classes held - in case I can't make the Aug one?

[StressMan79]

Depends what the need is...and the availability of the instructors. Generally more than one per year. Often 3 per year.

But try to get in asap...you won't regret it.

[project]

Depends what the need is...and the availability of the instructors. Generally more than one per year. Often 3 per year.

But try to get in asap...you won't regret it.

I've been trying to get in for over 2 years but my dang job keeps getting in the way. I think I'm going to have to quit just to take the class.

[loghousenut]

I've been trying to get in for over 2 years but my dang job keeps getting in the way. I think I'm going to have to quit just to take the class.

It's a matter of priorities. I have quit a good job for less.

[project]

It's a matter of priorities. I have quit a good job for less.

My plan was to hang on to this job until the house was finished then quit and be a fishing guide on the local lake but at this rate I'm never going to build the house.

[lilbluehonda]

If you wait until you have time IT WILL NEVER HAPPEN ,I see it all the time,all the things people are going to do when they get the chance,YOU JUST DON'T WANT IT BAD ENOUGH

[project]

If you wait until you have time IT WILL NEVER HAPPEN ,I see it all the time,all the things people are going to do when they get the chance,YOU JUST DON'T WANT IT BAD ENOUGH

I'm finding it hard to quit a 150k per year job just to take the class. Sooner or later our schedules will line up .

[loghousenut]

I'm finding it hard to quit a 150k per year job just to take the class. Sooner or later our schedules will line up .

You have certainly put a different slant on things.

[project]

You have certainly put a different slant on things.

I live well below my means and get paid pretty well for what I do and my plans are to be retired and living in my LHBA home by the age of 50. I just have to be patient and get in the first class I can . I work a 14 day on and 7 day off schedule and so far the classes have been when I'm working . I'm just making improvements to the land while I'm waiting .

[ivanshayka]

Sounds like a doctor's schedule. I think it will line up eventually. You are doing a right thing for now, land improvements/tool collection/material gathering. Although sometimes it is better to wait for class for certain projects. Just keep hanging on this site and something will show up eventually, class wise. Good luck.

[rreidnauer]

The stars will align in time.

[jakeanderton920]

So, if I can't make it to the class in Aug, and have to wait until next year, what are some things I can be doing now to get a head start on this project?

[panderson03]

I think they usually have one on labor day:)
the best thing we did was read all the threads on this side of the forums and brushed up on trades (electric, plumbing, cement, etc)

[kl_olsen]

Sorry to steal someone else's post but I can't post my own for some reason but I can reply. Go figure. I stumbled across the website recently and it was right up my alley as far as my thinking. I've always known kits are a rip off and I recently decided to go after building my own log home. I actually live in Las Vegas and I'm not sure yet if the class coming up will work with my schedule. If not, I'll have to wait for the next one.

I already have a house plan but it was designed for milled logs. I like the idea of butt and pass and was planning on using this technique with either milled logs or my own logs that I cut the top and bottom flat at a uniform thickness. I was just wondering what others thought of this? My other question is, my father talked with someone that hauls and mills logs back home (So. Utah) and that he would sell me 8"-10" logs for $200 a ton. I'm assuming they've been milled to a uniform 8, 9, or 10" thickness but even if they're unmilled logs is this a good deal? I'm not averse to logging my own (I have 3 teenage sons) but if this is a good or great deal, I can get more done with the time I have to work on it. I've put my house up (probably have to short sell) and I am in the process of moving my family up while I continue to work in Las Vegas. Depending on how my week goes I will almost always be able to go home on Thursdays and come back Sunday night/early Monday morning and, hopefully, frequently be able to go home on Wednesday. This will give me extra time to knock this out. I'm thinking it will be a 2 year project but hope to get the home to a liveable stage earlier (will be staying w/ the parents to have more $ to put towards the home). My property is in the valley so I can work on it year round but I won't be able to haul any timber before winter. That's why if this is a good deal on buying from this guy, I can work on it this winter. I've been reading on this forum as well as, books I've bought and I've decided to go with piers instead of wall foundations but I will do whatever is faster if it means I can have the cement done and ready for building before the ground freezes.

I appreciate the forum and all the info I've gleaned thus far. I hope to make it to the labor day class and possibly meet some of you. I would appreciate any constructive advice you feel like giving.

Thanks-Keith

[Shannonbeth]

Hello and welcome Jake. My name is Shannon, I am also waiting to attend the class. I live in Minnesota as well, about 2 hours west of Minneapolis.

However, we're going to be moving closer to the metro since my husband works there.

I will not be able to attend the upcoming class yet, I will prob have to wait till next year to attend.

Anyway, it's nice to meet you and I hope to follow your journey!

Shannon


Hello,

I stumbled upon the site last week after reading some other sites and other forums on log cabin construction and design. This site gives me some hope in that it seems I won't have to fork down $200K+ to get a home I have always wanted.

The Butt & Pass method intrigues me very much and I am thinking of "going to the class" as so many speak of doing. I live in the Twin Cities (MN) and have been looking off and on for some time for a few acres west of here (not more than a 1hr drive to downtown).

We have some family land about 4hrs north of here where I can get a lot of trees from, but the drive may prove to be expensive in transporting 50+ logs that far. I called a local guy and he wanted $5/linear ft. for white pine logs in a 12" diameter - that seems to be a bit pricey from all I have read here on the site - am I wrong? Other than that, I don't really have any tools, nor much construction know how - so I am definitely a "newbie".

Is anyone else on the Forum near me that has constructed or is planning to construct a home with this method? Or anyone else planning to go to Vegas next month for the class?

Thanks.

[panderson03]

HEY! Shannonbeth is back:) welcome back, friend. I hope life's treating you well.

[rreidnauer]

I love it when the long lost folks stop back in for a visit.

Pull up a seat, grab a beer, and stay a while Shannon! :)

[lilbluehonda]

You should read more on the forum to see what we say about milled logs and as far as cutting your own tree's ,it's dangerous enough without putting your kids life's at risk

[jakeanderton920]

You should read more on the forum to see what we say about milled logs and as far as cutting your own tree's ,it's dangerous enough without putting your kids life's at risk

There are so many threads around logs. Can you point me to one you had in mind?

[AkChas]

There are so many threads around logs. Can you point me to one you had in mind?

Jake; UNTIL you can take the class (and in my case, long after.....), read as much as you can access here. There's a wealth of information in nearly every thread. Even if it's one that doesn't cover the Specific question you have at this moment, you'll most likely find / learn, of something you never even thought to ask.
So many folks jump on and start a new thread, when, there is TON of valuable info already here on nearly every subject that can be imagined.
Truly - you have stumbled upon a very valuable resource and a group that want's to see you succeed. Be a sponge :)

[exsailor]

The bottom line is milled log cuts off the cambium and most of the sapwood protective layers while making your round structural beam. Notice I did not say log. Ever see a log without bark in the woods and see the round hard shell and rotten inside? Water got into the interior of the log and rotted it from the inside out. That is what happens if your roof is to small and there isn't enough overhang. Moisture is the bane of logs. I will take the class some day, and build my log home. This is some of what I have learned from reading the public area and kicking around the woods most of my life. Take the class and work with logs not round structural beams. Your log home can them be passed down to your grandkids.

[loghousenut]

The bottom line is milled log cuts off the cambium and most of the sapwood protective layers while making your round structural beam. Notice I did not say log. Ever see a log without bark in the woods and see the round hard shell and rotten inside? Water got into the interior of the log and rotted it from the inside out. That is what happens if your roof is to small and there isn't enough overhang. Moisture is the bane of logs. I will take the class some day, and build my log home. This is some of what I have learned from reading the public area and kicking around the woods most of my life. Take the class and work with logs not round structural beams. Your log home can them be passed down to your grandkids.

Everybody take notice of what is happening here. Exsailor has been lurking here so long that now he's the one saying "TAKE THE CLASS!!!". Heck, he's been stuck on the public side almost as long as I've been building. He must have first found this site when he was a little kid.

You'd best take that class, exsailor, and take it soon. Ellsworth and Steve don't want to teach a student who knows more than they do.


PS... When you do finally get to the member's side, you're gonna dive into it like it was a bowl of marshmallow tapioca. I can't wait!

[Blondie]

I am sorry, but may I go back to the square block house discussion? If you take a look at this log mahall, you will notice that it is a basic square house with a great porch and garage. http://www.pioneerloghomesofbc.com/log-homes-gallery.html see #5. It does not look like a cracker box. I really do not like the garage there but the rest of the house gives me some ideas.

Blondie

[Vermilion]

I like to see the Minnesota list is growing.

[jakeanderton920]

Does anyone know about or have experience building with utility poles instead of logs? I would be curious on that as they would provide a very uniform look with virtually no taper. Not sure how resistant to rot they would be?

[rreidnauer]

Most utility poles are neither uniform nor taperless. Additional reasons make them undesireable for log home use.

[jakeanderton920]

What are the other factors you mention to make this undesirable? I can get my hands on quite a few utility poles.

[rreidnauer]

Chemical treatment. If not treated, more rot prone due to peeling method used.

[Iwordsmitty]

Class will answer so many questions for you, and give you some to ponder that you haven't thought of. It also gives you access to the members side of the forum. There is so much information on that side. To me, access to the members side is worth as much as the course workbook and the 2 days spent in class.
I agree--just make sure you register here soon after class so they don't have a hard time digging up your membership info.

[Iwordsmitty]

we live in EP, buiding in Ottertail County.

we did attend the class. were blown away by how much we learned in 2 days. the class exceeded expectations. we've saved a LOT of money by implementing what we've learned from class and these forums

we took the class in May 2009

in March 2010 started site clearing for our garage and cabin. that year we got the excavation and footers done for both structures, frost wall on garage AND walk out basement walls on the cabin finished, as well as getting 9 courses of logs up on the garage

in 2011 we finished the garage log walls, put up the garage roof and poured the garage cement floor

in 2012 we got the garage walks stained and chinked and got the walls up on the cabin

this year we put up all garage doors (3 for cars plus 2 service doors) and will frame in the work room and bathroom in the garage as well as getting the cabin under roor, pouring cabin cement floor and footers for all cabin porches and decks.

also on the agenda for this year are bucking all cabin windows and doors, staining and chinking the cabin. we'll see if we get all that done :)

really Jake being an owner builder makes for a LOT of work but we're in the best shape of our lives, we KNOW the workmanship and materials are all quality, and we won't owe anyone a CENT when we're done.

that's why we're doing it. well that and because our great grandchildren will hear tales by the campfire of grandma and grandpa who built it with their own hands from the ground up. love the thought that these structures last for hundreds of years.

glad you found us:)
We've been raising two of our grandiose for about five years now. They're now 9 and 13, so since they're old enough to help and fetch tools, of sure if their memories will be so fond! More like nightmares!

[Iwordsmitty]

You'll be amazed why! I'm still amazed. I can't believe it never dawned on me until they revealed it in class! It's shocking to me and I'm amazed every time I show someone the principle and they never realized it either.

[Iwordsmitty]

[QUOTE=Plumb Level;91926]Hello Jake and welcome.

You can insulate with piers, but there is some planning involved. But, with a frost line as deep as you are going to have there, your piers will be huge. For a few thousand more, or maybe even the same amount, you can have a basement.

Take the class and you will:

1. square up your plans for you build (32x32 instead of 30 x 35)
QUOTE]

I am still scratching my head reading how most people do a square design. Not sure why that is so heavily promoted...

Whoops--I meant to quote this.

[Iwordsmitty]

I must have 40 books on log house building. LHBA class makes them mostly obsolete. Class is what did it for me.

Right on--me too!

[loghousenut]

My Wife was going through old books the other day trying to eliminate her nemesis, clutter. I have always been of the opinion that Mr. Barnes or Mrs. Noble will be watching from the shadows and call in the book police if I get rid of a book that is out of print (my life is a museum).

So, I did a fair job of eliminating old Motor Manuals, VW books, Sunset do-it-yourself (from the 50's-60's) books, and even "A Modern History of Motorcycles". She fought hard for 5 minutes but then let me win when I said I wanted to keep "Handmade Houses on Wheels", my Boy Scout "Fieldbook" collection, mushroom ID books, and Larry Olsen survival books.

Then she got to the log house books and stuff. I boxed up all those log house magazines, plan books, kit house sales brochures, and other useless eye candy featuring the two primary styles of "log houses"... "Too big" and "too expensive" (with numerous examples of "really stupid" and "really shiny"). There must me 25 house plan books that have all those post-it notes marking pages that she or I thought had some merit. Those house plan books kept us going during that 20 year period when we thought we wanted to build our own home but really just wanted to argue about building our own home.

That junk is in several boxes in the back of the Honda waiting to go to Barstow Rat's house. He and his Wife, Bianca, have been on the fence about taking the class for several years now. They have even moved to Oregon to settle and buy a chunk of land to build on. I plan to take those boxes of misery over to their place and plop it down on their kitchen table so that I can burst their bubble. I'll watch their eyes shine as they ooh and ahh at all the shiny, 5-20 year old photos of houses that they think they want to build. I'll let them feast their eyes on the 100 or 200 different floor plans that we thought had merit. They'll giggle and hold hands and point at photos of grand 3 story vaulted ceilings, and all those polished milled logs, and 1,000 square foot staircases/entry halls. They'll have the same feelings that we had about how nice it'll be when they finally have their log home in Oregon.

Then I'll ask them what's wrong with my place. There will be jokes and snickering about how lazy I am and how it shoulda been done years ago. I'll point out how simple it woulda been if I'd started building within 10 years of going to class, when I was 35 or 40 years old (I first took the class in 1982). I'll ask them to peruse those boxes of misdirection and think about why they want to build their own log home with their own hands. Nothing wrong with a straw-bale, cordwood, cobb, underground, or ICF house, but if that pile of glossy log house books stirs anything in their soles, I think they oughta take the class, get to building, and get on with what life is really all about. Additionally I will ask them to haul those boxes of false dreams down to the recycle bin within a week. If they do, it'll make their lives so much easier than ours has been.

Take the class. Build one of the LHBA plans. Simplify your life. You'll never regret it.


OH, one more thing. She let me keep my collection 15-60 year old "build a log home in the wilderness" log home books. I've been collecting them since I was a kid in knee pants, and she said they would add a certain "ambiance" to our library in the log home. I don't know for sure why she'd want an ambiance right there inside the house but it sounds like I'll be building shelves in it to store my old log house books.


Take the class. Somewhere in the middle of the second day of class, you'll see for yourself how useless all those log house books are.

Quit wasting your life. Go to class, then buy a $50,000 chunk of dirt, and build the LHBA 35x35 before the kids are too old to help.


http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/P1010122_zps948e4469.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/loghousenut/media/P1010122_zps948e4469.jpg.html)

[Rob in MN]

I continue to check in here a couple times a month and read all. Maybe I yet someday will fork out the cash for class and just do it instead of thinking about it. More realistic is I will end up hiring it out as without question it takes time and effort to accomplish the end product.
I give credit to those willing to expend all it takes to do a build - well done and you sure earned the right to be proud!

[panderson03]

glad you keep checking in here, Rob. keeps the dream alive. we need more MN folks around here who've taken the class. STILL thinking we'll have the cabin logs underroof by snowfall..... (praying for a late winter....)

[panderson03]

We've been raising two of our grandiose for about five years now. They're now 9 and 13, so since they're old enough to help and fetch tools, of sure if their memories will be so fond! More like nightmares!

HI there IwordSmitty. I'm very sure the 9 year old at least will have fond memories!! with teenagers, its so hard to tell..... :) but at the very least you'll teach them a strong work ethic!!

glad you're here.

[BoFuller]

Don't pay more than$2/ft for logs. $1 is a good deal.

Oh, and that is delivered.

That depends on what size logs you want and where you live. I spent $15,000 for mine to have them hauled in from Utah to Arizona, 65 of them, average 25 inch in diameter, mostly 38 feet long. That's about $6.25 a foot. Different strokes for different folks.

[eduncan911]

If you wait until you have time IT WILL NEVER HAPPEN ,I see it all the time,all the things people are going to do when they get the chance,YOU JUST DON'T WANT IT BAD ENOUGH

Exactly. I finally just had to schedule the time off, tell the wife I'm leaving (for a few days), and just buy the tickets when they show up on the mailing list.

When buying the class ticket, that pretty much solidifies your plans. Everything else revolves around that monumental date in your life and you just have to tell work "no" and just leave.

[jakeanderton920]

So, I am planning to cut trees in the spring here in MN. After I debark them and remove the "Cambrian" layer, am I good to start building, or do I need to dry them out of the elements for a certain amount of time - if so, how much time?

[edkemper]

So, I am planning to cut trees in the spring here in MN. After I debark them and remove the "Cambrian" layer, am I good to start building, or do I need to dry them out of the elements for a certain amount of time - if so, how much time?

You need to go to the class. All your questions will be answered. We can cut our trees one day and build with them the next, but you get the details on how and why in the class.

[rocklock]

Well you do need to peal them and then stack them. But our method requires lots of steel and a certain amount of knowledge.

[logsforveterans]

I'm going to this next class. Pull the trigger. I've been reading into this for over a year now and am finally headed to las vegas. You only live once.

[Shy-Anne]

General question on the class, is it all verbal or do you get handouts, maybe a DVD or something? My fear is that Ill go and get overwhelmed and then forget everything

[donjuedo]

The class provides a thick book, plus access to the members' side of the forums (invaluable!).


Peter

[loghousenut]

General question on the class, is it all verbal or do you get handouts, maybe a DVD or something? My fear is that Ill go and get overwhelmed and then forget everything

You'll be overwhelmed and forget everything... Then it'll come back to you in spades as you devour the members side of the forum. It's a system that works. To me, a huge benefit of the class was just realizing that there is a way to do it and other completely incompetent folks like me who have already done it. You will not regret taking the class... Guaranteed.

[dvb]

So, I am planning to cut trees in the spring here in MN. After I debark them and remove the "Cambrian" layer, am I good to start building, or do I need to dry them out of the elements for a certain amount of time - if so, how much time?

This system frowns on cutting trees in the spring, I wonder how many other things you will do outside the system before you take the class? There are many ways to skin a cat, but if you plan on using this system, take the class so you can get all of the advantages.

[rocklock]

Cambiam layer - goes nuts during spring so winter cut is best. Myy doug fir was cut during the winter but the sap inclusions are many and finally after 7 years they are not running any more. I stacked my log about two months after peeling them..

[Shy-Anne]

So its only verbal info and what we can write down ourselves?

[StressMan79]

They give you a notebook, some CD's, but bring a notebook of your own...write down questions, for the weeks leading to the class. You'll cross out most of the questions in the first day. If you ever have any more questions, members are always happy to help.