View Full Version : Chinking Costs
dmorgan
01-31-2006, 11:35 AM
Anyone willing to talk about what it cost them to hire chinking done? :-)
I've heard it can cost $3 to $5 a linear foot to have it professionaly done. Anyone seen it cost that much?
Anyone have any real world data to offer?
Thanks in advance
David in NC
gregorama
01-31-2006, 08:28 PM
I've not heard of anyone hiring it out, but for $5.00 per foot, I'll quit my job and fly out to wherever you are! :wink: In my limited experience, you can chink about 1 foot per minute, including all the overhead time (mixing, etc.) That was at my beginner speed..
I'd consider hiring it out at under $2.00/foot for labor, including insulation and nailing, inside and out.. :roll: On a 40' log, that's $80 for a (max) few hours work.. Use a palm nailer to drive the nails; it rocks.. <img src='http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/3/3_2_10.gif' border=0>
Greg
dmorgan
02-01-2006, 05:49 AM
When you say insulation are you talking about backer rod? Mine is a kit that has insulation between the logs in the T&G cavities.
I'd assumed 3 to 5 bucks a linear foot was a lot. I also considered going into the business if I could get that rate. :-)
Thanks for your input!!
David in NC
gregorama
02-01-2006, 07:04 PM
Yep, it can be backer rod, but the taught method is to use fiberglass to pack the gaps between logs. I'm not sure yet what material I'll use. The reasoning and methods are covered in the class. There are a lot of different materials in use; I'm not sure how they've all performed long-term. Anybody have any bad experiences with any particular material/application?
rreidnauer
02-01-2006, 08:10 PM
What material are you considering for chinking? There's a big price gap between mortar and latex style chinking. $3-$5/ft. might not be all that high depending on material costs.
wood bug
02-01-2006, 08:52 PM
rreidnauer is right latex and other flexible types are expensive 5 bucks installed may be a good deal, I got a friend who built used latex of some sort applied it from a bag, alot like a cake decarator uses, it cost him a fortune
JeffandSara
02-03-2006, 11:02 AM
Just a thought, gentlemen....
Building a log house can be a long process. You might not want to alienate your wives too early on; you might need her help and/or sympathy later. :wink:
Can't speak to latex, but having been through the process with mortar chinking, Jeff and I were saying the other day, we're not sure we'd want someone else slopping mortar all over our beautiful logs. The family and friends who came to help us worked really, really hard and also tried to be neat. :D
Good luck to you!
Sara
Drh0liday
01-21-2007, 11:36 AM
Use a palm nailer to drive the nails; it rocks.. <img src='http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/3/3_2_10.gif'>
Greg
i think a small nail gun adjusted to leave some nail sticking out (look around there are adjustable ones) would be much faster
or is that what a "palm nailer" is, (never heard of it)
rreidnauer
01-21-2007, 12:08 PM
Palm nailer ---> http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=11119
I'm planning on getting a Hitachi NR83A2 nailer, and welding an extension on a spare nose to set my chinking nails long. No pressure adjust ments required this way. Full head, galvanized 3 1/4" nails are readily available for this nailer.
When I'm not using it for chinking nails, I'll change noses and do my interior framing.
jeffro
01-21-2007, 12:15 PM
Stop stealing all my ideas Rod. :wink:
I was going to do that exact thing with a nail gun, and if it worked, great, nails are cheap compared to the hand labor.
Jeff
greenthumb
01-21-2007, 02:25 PM
Palm nailer ---> http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=11119
I'm planning on getting a Hitachi NR83A2 nailer, and welding an extension on a spare nose to set my chinking nails long. No pressure adjust ments required this way. Full head, galvanized 3 1/4" nails are readily available for this nailer.
When I'm not using it for chinking nails, I'll change noses and do my interior framing.
That sounds like an excellent idea, but I can see it being a problem in areas where there might be a knot or some other obstruction where you might want to recess the nail a little deeper. I guess that's where you pop one in and come back with the palm nailer and drive it down a little more later on. :lol:
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