water leaking through the logs

[Zube2711]

We live in Michigan. Our log home was built in 1989. The home did not have any chinking when we purchased in 1996. The home had only be stained one time prior to our purchase and that was done just prior to the sellers listing the property. The first time we stained our home we also chinked the outside using log jam. Since then we have stained an additional two times - each time with Sikkens. We are planning to restain again this spring/summer. Even after the original chinking, water leaked through the logs - staining the interior logs which the original owners never sealed. We have had several "log experts" try to correct the leaking issue. Some tried additional chinking and others used caulking because they said that was better than chinking.
Questions:
1.Which is better, chinking or caulking? What brand is best?
2.Should chinking/caulking be performed before staining or after staining? We've seen a different opinions on which is best.
3.We are also considering corn cob blasting and using a product other than Sikkens. Any thoughts?
Thank you,
Paul and Pattu

[Tom Featherstone]

We live in Michigan. Our log home was built in 1989. The home did not have any chinking when we purchased in 1996. The home had only be stained one time prior to our purchase and that was done just prior to the sellers listing the property. The first time we stained our home we also chinked the outside using log jam. Since then we have stained an additional two times - each time with Sikkens. We are planning to restain again this spring/summer. Even after the original chinking, water leaked through the logs - staining the interior logs which the original owners never sealed. We have had several "log experts" try to correct the leaking issue. Some tried additional chinking and others used caulking because they said that was better than chinking.
Questions:
1.Which is better, chinking or caulking? What brand is best?
2.Should chinking/caulking be performed before staining or after staining? We've seen a different opinions on which is best.
3.We are also considering corn cob blasting and using a product other than Sikkens. Any thoughts?
Thank you,
Paul and Pattu

Dear Paul and Pattu, You might not like the news you'll get from here. We believe in a different method of building with logs that can Eliminate all the problems you are having with your home.

If you could get some photos up here we will be much better to assist you in what remedies are available to you. Most of the answers are in what construction method was used and to the current condition it's in.

You can search the "threads" here as to "which" is better, that will open you to more questions.

It sounds like to me you have a "kit" home, with some type of manufactured log. Log on log contact and typically they have to seal the exterior joints to reduce water wicking into the logs, let alone any gaps that would have to be filled. It's basically "caulk" no matter what name it is. Chinking is used in full log construction to bridge the void. I don't think I would caulk both sides.... that water has to have a way out, or you rot!

No matter what product you use, you will have to continue regular maintenance with those products. Some might last a bit longer. Follow the mfg's instructions completely to get your best result.

Good Luck! Get some photos up.

Tom

[LogHomeFeverDan]

Hello Paul and Pattu,

As Tom said above, we build using different construction techniques that eliminate the challenges you are facing.

To add my two cents to Tom's reply above.
1.) This is a general construction guideline so your specific challenges may be altered depending on how your home was built, however, it is near impossible to prevent water from penetrating between your logs. Thus the better question is, how do I make sure the water can dry out/evaporate. I'd echo Tom in saying I don't ever want to "seal" my logs, this only serves to make it more difficult for evaporation. Water and logs equals rot. Sealing with caulk or other log home products won't prevent water from entering but sure puts up a barrier to evaporation. Hope that makes sense.
2.) This question is debated constantly and in my humble opinion boils down to personal preference.
3.) Cob blasting is neat, but realize corn cob has a "nutrient" value (read bug/critter food) whereas "shells" don't. Have you looked into blasting with nut shells? As per individual products, I don't have enough knowledge to provide an educated opinion. Personally, due to my Chiropractic background I prefer as natural as possible. Thus when choosing a product to apply to the walls of our "home", it will be as NON toxic as possible.

Again, not to be redundant but Tom put it perfectly, if you could provide pictures or more information on type of log in your home, construction method, location you are noticing water etc...we may be able to provide additional input.

Thanks for visiting, hope you stick around, read all you can here and pose questions.

Dan

[loghousenut]

You have a 24 year old home that should be going through "teenage growing pains" but is instead, suffering from "genetic defects". We, on this site, follow a procedure for building custom, owner built, log homes that are not "genetically predisposed" to those problems.

Without photos we can only guess, but I'm supposing that you have a log kit home with roof eaves that are short enough to allow rainwater to contact your walls. Once water hits your walls, depending on the construction method used while stacking those walls, it can be tough (or impossible) to keep the water from wicking to the inside of the wall. It may well be that a full wraparound covered porch is the best way to really keep the water off but we'd like a handful of photos and a general location.

Good luck with it and forgive me if I sound doom and gloomy but I came to LHBA to completely avoid the log home problems that you folks are now facing.

Also, to answer your only question, caulking or chinking may have little to do with a solution to your problem. An analogy might be that some wounds to the fleshy part of a leg might require stitches or surgery while a squirt of Bactine or a Band Aid might be the appropriate course of action for some other wounds.

[blane]

You may be able to help the problem if you could add a covered porch all the way around your house or at least the worst section.

[Gomer]

blane makes sense in that extending the roof somehow while not ruining the look could do it.
btw- I have seen and totally realized that regardless of the manner of the build, including a butt and pass log home, you can be headed for trouble with not a great deal of overhang. I saw my first butt and pass home north of Walker, MN last weekend that was a mess. The walls and logs remained pinned tight and solid. 2 corners and the "dangles" were rotting away as was maybe 10' on both walls there. The lower logs all around the place were suffering from start of dry rot. The roof line overhung the walls by 2 feet and the water has collected there and run off on the logs for better than 40 years the sellers said. They inherited it from someone in family and he knew Skip from way back then. Small world.
The cabin is salvageable with some expense and a lot of effort so hope someone nearby buys it.
Since I got the up north cabin bug I have looked at more log cabins than I can even count anymore. I have now seen issues on I believe every style in Minnesota - Wisconsin area.
Almost every one is/was an owner build or later repair matter. Several with foundation issues and several with log rot due to constant water presence. And some where they didn't chink or caulk properly or maintain that in later years. It's pretty painful to see since no doubt in every case someone poured in a lot of time and labor and love into the builds
I bet it folks did roofs and foundations right in every case we could build a super thick thatch or strawbale cabin that will last better than a hundred years easy....unless a fire or tornado or quake takes it down.