Scotland, UK - Is this method log home construction practical in another country ?

[Gavin]

Hi Everyone,

This probably a question for the moderator. But please jump in if you think you can clarify things a bit for us.

I am not quite sold on attending the Las Vegas traning because alot of the information, which seems so critical to successfully completing a project, is specific to the USA. Even the tools etc.

My concern would be in translating the information to our situation here in Scotland. Particularly since following the principles and timescales as I said relies so heavily on the methods/information/purchasing taught on course.

What stories have you heard from Europeans or others having attended the course, that might indicate the usefulness of doing it, despite much of the information, I am guessing, not being easily applied in our country.

Warm Regards,

Gavin

[rocklock]

Do you have logs, rebar (steel reinforcing), a drill of the same size, and a sledge hammer and lots of motivation to work hard? If you do, our methods will work.

[Gavin]

Yes, we do. No arguement there.

Warm Regards,

Gavin

[Blondie]

Nicely said Rocklock,

Gavin, The "process," is currently being used in Japan and was used by another member in South Africa. We don't sell a product but share knowledge (the class) and support each other on this blog.

Blondie

[sdart]

The only area where I can see that U.S. based knowledge would not be helpful would be in the building permit process. I would think that the regulations would be different. However, that you can research locally yourself. The building method taught and the enormous amount of help given on the member's side of this forum are equally useful for builders anywhere. We all have to figure out our local situation for the supply of logs and species which vary enormously across the U.S. The class will teach you what to look for.

Where would you be building in Scotland? Look forward to seeing your build on my next trip there :)

[johnstonrob9]

In line with Gavins original question, what would the durability of the logs be in a climate like the UK (wet and damp).
I wouldn't have any issues with the construction methods as such. My concerns would be with the suitability of material available for the build and its durability/maintenance required.
Has anyone built over in this direction that would be able to share their experience?

[loghousenut]

In line with Gavins original question, what would the durability of the logs be in a climate like the UK (wet and damp).
I wouldn't have any issues with the construction methods as such. My concerns would be with the suitability of material available for the build and its durability/maintenance required.
Has anyone built over in this direction that would be able to share their experience?

I've never been to the UK but I lived in Sultan, Washington for two long, soggy years. When I first took the class in 1981, the vast majority of LHBA stlye homes were built within commuting distance of the rainy Seattle area. Once the internet took hold and the need for monthly LHBA meet n greet gettogethers lessened, folks started building more and more of these homes in other (mostly drier) climates.

This style of building purposely encorporates building and design techniques that specifically defend the LHBA structure against rot and water damage. Skip would have probably have said something like making a log home that will survive in a rain forest is what we do.

It's simple little things that just make sense like big roof overhangs and not milling the logs to lie flat against each other. It has nothing to do with some of the hype you will read in kit house literature about longivity, such as "special finishes" or "patented sealing between logs" or even "special double tongue and groove". Speaking of finishes, Skip liked no finish at all. His log homes will continue to survive splendidly with natural, naked logs.

I have seen and touched a bunch of LHBA student's homes that have been standing in the rainy Pacific Northwest, and I have had the pleasure of replacing logs on more conventionally constructed log homes. I would say that if you want your Great Grandkids to love the log home that you build in a rainy environment, you oughta build a LHBA home. No question about it.

[johnstonrob9]

Thanks for the response loghousenut. I agree you should be able to use various methods to protect the house, I assume one of the biggest factors would be the type of trees used. What is the most suitable log to use, or what is recommended? To build over that direction, a similar type tree would probably need to be sourced.
I would like to take the class at some stage but as of now there are other priorities!!

[loghousenut]

What choice of trees have you got? I'm building with Ponderosa Pine. The main factor for us for choosing a species was finding what we could get.

[johnstonrob9]

Most common trees growing seem to be oak, ask, sycamore, elm, birch and scots pine. I suppose you would be restricted to whatever is available!

[loghousenut]

Most common trees growing seem to be oak, ask, sycamore, elm, birch and scots pine. I suppose you would be restricted to whatever is available!


Whatever species it is, it will have to look something like this. It is about 53' long and you'll need about 150 of them.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/loghousenut/Our%20Home/The%20ridgepole/P1000829-1.jpg

[loghousenut]

HHHAAHAHAhhaahhaahhahhhhAAAHHHHHHHHHHH...

OK so maybe you could shoot more for logs that are about 12"-16" at the butt end and about 10"-12" at the height of 35'-10'. Don't worry, you won't need 150 of them unless you are extremely ambitious.

Never been to the UK so I have no idea about any challenges you may have there. There are LHBA homes from Japan to South Africa that are built by the owner/builder using locally available trees such as Pine, Fir, Douglas Fir, Eucalyptus, Poplar, Larch, Cedar and on and on.

Most wet weather problems are solved by incorporating construction methods that are contrary to conventional log home design. LHBA members have been using these methods for years to build their homes that will last lifetimes with no rot problems. The methods taught in class will allow you to build the strongest, longest lasting log home known with whatever species you can get. It is also the simplest form of log construction and is especially suited to owner/builders who have no previous construction experience.

Did I mention that, included in your LHBA 2-day class is a trip to that holiday mecca of the United States... LAS VEGAS!!!

Hotel, airfare, snacks, meals, and most entertainment not included in LHBA membership.

[PeeCee]

I'm the guy building in Japan. Mine is probably the first B&P style home to be built here--most certainly the first LHBA style home to be built here. Actually, it's more of a cabin than a log "home." Here's what it looks like at the moment.

http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq299/block190/IMG_8343.jpg

You can see that it doesn't quite conform to LHBA norms. I took quite a few liberties with the design. Some of the liberties are due to climatic differences between the US and Japan. Others are due to differences in building materials. Some are purely aesthetic. I'm building on land that borders the sea and we get some pretty dramatic typhoons here. Thus the big porches to protect the logs from rain that can be horizontal at times. You will probably make some modifications to suit your climate and the location where you plan to build.

The part of the class that was the most valuable was the main part which dealt with the nuts and bolts building information. The inspection and logger information was irrelevant to my situation here. I was battling jet lag big time during the class, so that part provided me with a bit of time to put down my pencil and space out.

Not to be an evangelist here, but I think the building information provided in the class is a great start. It gives you the basic information about how to build and the boost in motivation to get started. The largest benefit of taking the class, however is getting over to the members' section of the forum and receiving all the helpful input from people who know how to help you deal with the specific details that you are going through. It is also filled with build threads where people like me are posting photos and info about their day to day progress. Some people may find that tedious, but I find it hugely inspirational and motivating to see how people are dealing with specific issues. If you aren't in love with the appearance of the standard LHBA home, you'll see a lot of other styles in the members' forum. The design of my cabin was a direct ripoff of a home that another forum member built.

I don't know about the kinds of trees that you have in Scotland, but I'm guessing that spruce, fir and pine do pretty well in your wet climate. Those varieties make for great fairly straight building logs. I'm also guessing that lot sizes are probably smaller in Scotland than they are in the US. That shouldn't be a problem either. I have less than an acre of property and only 400 or 500 square meters of it is flat. That means a lot of planning needed to go into placement for peeling and building. I've figured out a way to stack and peel logs for a second larger home on the same property, so it can be done.

That's my 2p.

[LogHomeFeverDan]

Now that's an awesome pic of a log home in Japan!!!!! TY PeeCee and thank you for posting!

[RockEngineer]

The main thing to look for in trees that are straight with a minimum of taper. The LHBA method used the raw logs just peeled and go to work. We usually recommend a minimum of 8" diameter logs and most members try for 12" diameter to minimize their labor. We have had people build in UK. One member built a small cabin in London a few years ago.

[ivanshayka]

Most common trees growing seem to be oak, ask, sycamore, elm, birch and scots pine. I suppose you would be restricted to whatever is available!

I am in Michigan. We have Scots pine, it is "invasive species". These pines were planted here in 1930s and on as part of PWC. It is, IMHO, a usable wood. It is soft wood/evergree. Also I would asume that you have Fir trees growing there too, also maybe larch. I would prefere using fir trees or cedar, but currently I am using Red Pine (also called Norway pine). I would have to say: If it is straight = use it, If it is crooked = straiten... . I dont want to give away all the info here. But I would say it is posible to build in UK. Take the class if you can. You will have a great support system in member's side.