Models

[JeffandSara]

slrrls--

Some members built 2 or 3 models, some build with twigs for greater realism, Rod built the amazingly perfect log model above (still fascinates me everytime I see the photos, Rod!)... and some of us bought dowels, did the basics of piers, walls, girders, floor joists and rafters, and called it good. You use the model as much or as little as you personally feel you need or want to.

We DID draw a whole STACK of plans before we drafted the final version, though. : )

Sara

[LogLover]

I actually thought for awhile that his BIG pic was the home....after 10 minutes I saw the "my model" link.
I don't anticipate my home will look that good --- can I live in the model if I lose some weight. lol

[dazedandconfused]

I plan on messing aroung at first with dowels, how did you guys cut them, shape the inside 2X4's etc did you use a dremel type device, I just tought something so small a saw might break the pieces rather than cut them, thanks

[drummer boy]

I used 1/2 dowels, oak lamanent for the floor and roof(metal roof) and wood blocks shaped into "Ellsworth" piers. I used square balsa for the roof rafters and thought about using them for the floor joist, but decided I understood my floor and did not do it. I used no glue, instead I used nails with the same length of actual rebar (to scale). We used our model to help the architect, though he though I had lost my mind saying I over-engineered everything. (Thanks Mr.E!!!) and because it is to scale I have been pricing out items like the metal roof. My seven kids play with it because they think my wife and I made a doll house just for them. It is really durable.

To answer your question, We used a dremal tool and a miniature reciprocating saw. (A hobby tool. $7.00)

[emersonelk]

I used 5/8 dowels which turned out to be most of the cost,heed chainsawgrandpa's advice about dowels.I think i spent about 80 bucks on them.I was to impatient to wait and order some cheaper.Threw in a few 3/4 dowels for the rpsl's and ridge pole,gsl.Used white styrofoam packaging for the crawl space foundation.I was also super lucky that my wifes grandfather gave me a partially used full size barbie like house kit that he was making for all the grand daughters growing up.Came with a small hand saw and miter box with different angles for cuts,used that alot.Was able to use up what was left of joists.Probably the best of all was it came with ready made cedar shakes,which i want to use on the real build any way.Instead of framing the interior,i know being a visual person had to know what the end result would look like,so i built all the interior with cardboard from cereal boxes and the like,all the walls,appliances,beds,etc. and dont regret it,cause now i know what'll look like.The rest of the rafters and bucks and 2nd floor joists were cut out of lattice already at the correct scale thickness,just had to cut into widths and lengths on the table saw.That was the the cheapest stuff i could find at "Jerry's" (just like a home depot).Only thing not to scale was the roof,used the ole use what ya got,which was 1/4 ply wood on a double roof like Pams,and had to make the roof removeable like the one in class,otherwise you cant see the inside but through them little windows.All in all was a very useful and fun project.

[StressMan79]

I know that building a model is recommended, but I used two items:

1) I am a highly visual person
2) I kept the design super simple/the LHBA method allows for a whole lot of fudging later if you need to.

Long story short, I did not make a model. I think that most of the issues will be with matching logs, etc, you can't do that with dowels.

[Drap]

How about putting up some pics of your Models!!!!!

[LogLover]

Hey Peter;

I truly dig the utube vid's, gives me a feel for this a whole lot more than just reading and before/after pics. Like you I guess I'm kinda visual but like a projector vs a camera. lol
When you dropped on that very first log I started to realize this is doable but by no means a cake walk either. I think if every log is that way I may question my sanity. ;-)
Please tell me once you get the first row down it gets a wee bit easier...or does it?
Thanks

[rreidnauer]

The first course is the most difficult.


As for model building, there is absolutely no reason to build as detailed as mine. I just started out regular, and wanted to add a few details how I was going to support the purlins at center span, and well, it got out of hand.

Oh, you also don't really want to build a model before taking the class. (well, at least if you don't want to build another model after you realize all the mistakes you made are pointed out to you in class) The main purpose of the model is to help you learn the build process, and find any mistakes or conflicts before building the real thing. All interior framing is easily changed if need be. (hence why it's not necessary to do what I did) But altering the log superstructure won't be an option if a problem is found.

[LogLover]

Thanks Rod for info.
I'm planning on doing a rough mock up before the class mainly. make it only, because I have a chance to seure a parcel that I have wanted for more than 50 years. Or we think so - estate matter right now.
The footprint, along with actual contruction space, is somewhat limited if we desire to retain the nature lay of things. We are struggling with size - of course we can anything work. It just makes this part of the decision process easier. I don't desire 3 stories, I don't desire to many steps on the stairway, etc .... so just a mock up and subject to many changes I am sure w/i limitations of the original footprint.
I'm sure we can make things work but if not the option is an A-frame stick built that I know can work well. I just dig the vibe of a log home more. That said - the land is the million dollar piece (not price) of the puzzle and I do not want to alter it to much beyond the access road. My son is into serious landscape business and all that larger equipment stuff and he said he'd kill us if we destroyed the setting too. Don't want that now .... lol