Been building all Summer

**rreidnauer** · 10-10-2010, 07:15 PM

. . . unfortunately, it isn't my log home yet. Been working hard trying to get my trailer back to operational condition after it sat 10 years unused, and had tons of water damage. After totally rebuilding the roof and ceilings, the kitchen cabinets were next. Other than the refrigerator enclosure and cabinet doors, it too was a total loss, and had to be rebuilt from scratch. Got the top cabinets completely finished tonight, and the bottom cabinets should be done in a day or two. Takes some creativity, keeping things light and building to conform to the odd wall slopes. NOTHING is square in these rigs, and takes a lot of "eye-balling" and scribing to get things looking right. If I knew just how much was going to have to be done, I'm not sure I would have tackled this mess, but I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel, and getting plenty of practice building something!

**panderson03** · 10-12-2010, 06:26 AM

sure is looking good! I can see you put a of work into it. good time investment!

**chadfortman** · 10-12-2010, 10:00 AM

Hey dont know if you got working hot water on demand Lowe's sells a plug in the wall unit.
I think it was made by viking for 250 and its got knobs to set how hot you want the water.
Are you getting ready to move to the land soon?
Ow get your temp electic pole if you can nothing beats not running a generator to get juice.

**rreidnauer** · 10-16-2010, 06:12 PM

Finished up the bottom cabinets. Had to make a couple drawer faces that came out pretty good. (as good as the crappy style that was originally used) I was a bit worried about making my own new drawer bodies, but they came out beautiful and didn't take but about 20 minutes a piece to build. After tackling this non-coventional kitchen, I have the confidence to build my own cabinets when I get to the log home's kitchen.

Countertops are next. That's gonna be a little tricky, as I got to figure out how to scribe the formica into an area between the two side walls which are out of square. I can't just roll up one end of the sheet while scribing the opposite end, because the inward slope of the front wall won't allow the rolled up side to fit tight to the front wall. I think I have an idea what I'm going to do, but I'll do a little more head scratching before cutting into the $53 sheet.
Love a challenge!

**donjuedo** · 10-17-2010, 05:55 AM

Hi, Rod,

A technique I saw to get the outline you want goes like this: Make strips of wood, about like wooden yard sticks, but thinner, and whatever lengths you need. Then lay them along the edges of your counter top, gluing them with hot melt glue. Include triangles, too, so the strips keep square (or whatever angle your countertop needs). Then you have a lightweight, flexible template you can lay on your new stock.

Peter

**ramblinman502** · 10-17-2010, 07:22 AM

peter is on the money..thats how we make tamplates for concrete counters.

**edkemper** · 10-17-2010, 10:16 AM

Nice work my friend. Wish I was as talented.

**rreidnauer** · 10-18-2010, 09:15 AM

I'll definitely be using it!

**hemlock77** · 10-21-2010, 05:06 AM

Originally Posted by rreidnauer

Finished up the bottom cabinets. Had to make a couple drawer faces that came out pretty good. (as good as the crappy style that was originally used) I was a bit worried about making my own new drawer bodies, but they came out beautiful and didn't take but about 20 minutes a piece to build. After tackling this non-coventional kitchen, I have the confidence to build my own cabinets when I get to the log home's kitchen.
[IMG=600x450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/titantornado/kitchen2.jpg[/IMG]
Countertops are next. That's gonna be a little tricky, as I got to figure out how to scribe the formica into an area between the two side walls which are out of square. I can't just roll up one end of the sheet while scribing the opposite end, because the inward slope of the front wall won't allow the rolled up side to fit tight to the front wall. I think I have an idea what I'm going to do, but I'll do a little more head scratching before cutting into the $53 sheet.
Love a challenge!

This is what I have been doing for scribe fitting sheet materials(plywood mostly). Use a large sheet of paper as a template then just transfer it. I started off using scrap rooftop gaurd, but that stuff is pricy, so I switched to using tar paper for templates. I just staple 4 corners and and then cut out pattern with utility knife.
Stu

**rreidnauer** · 10-21-2010, 09:26 AM

I did manage to get a pattern made and transfered it to the formica sheet, which came out perfect. I've yet to glue it down yet, but it should happen within a few days, then I'll get the sink cut in, installed, and get this kitchen finally wrapped up. As of just lately, I temporarily switched gears and I'm concentrating on getting all my stuff consolidated into my reefer trailer, since yet again, the company I work for has been bought by another, and uncertainty is in the air.

**StressMan79** · 10-21-2010, 09:56 PM

You'll get canned sooner than later... maybe with a fat old severence package and then out to the land full time. Anyway, Rod, you know I don't wish you any ill will, but we are all getting very anxious to see your place start taking shape!
-Peter

**loghousenut** · 10-21-2010, 11:33 PM

I once worked for an outfit that sold. I drove a cement mixer truck. Prettiest truck in the valley. Lots of chrome and polished aluminum and the paint was shiney gun-metal grey. A couple of gentlemen from Anchorage decided to branch out and get into the concrete business in a warmer climate. Problem is they brought their entire business model with them. Part of that model was that they liked their trucks to be noticeable... Noticeable and PINK. Nudity I can handle... Pink trucks are another thing altogether. Good luck with the new owners Rod.

**rreidnauer** · 10-22-2010, 09:38 AM

Originally Posted by StressMan79

With any luck You'll get canned sooner than later... maybe with a fat old severence package and then out to the land full time. Anyway, Rod, you know I don't wish you any ill will, but we are all getting very anxious to see your place start taking shape!
-Peter

I'm rooting for the same myself Peter. Coming up on 13 years of service, and getting a nice "good-bye present" sure would beat just walking away empty handed as I am pretty much planning on anyhow this coming Spring or Summer.

**rreidnauer** · 10-23-2010, 05:34 PM

Just need to put up the shades, install an undercabinet light I'm waiting on, and do something with the toe-kick.

Next, on to repairing some soft spots in the floors.

**loghousenut** · 10-23-2010, 06:20 PM

Don't waste all that good talent on a log home. You need to go into the business of fixing up old trailerhouses. It's an art HAHaha.
PS. I have one that will be available to fix up just as soon as I can finish up our little log project.

**loghousenut** · 10-23-2010, 08:18 PM

Originally Posted by loghousenut

Don't waste all that good talent on a log home. You need to go into the business of fixing up old trailerhouses. It's an art HAHaha.
PS. I have one that will be available to fix up just as soon as I can finish up our little log project.

Rod, when I re-read my earlier post it became apparent to me that it appears crude and tasteless. Please be assured that I meant it in the same vein that I mean most of my posts. I truly meant for it to be light-hearted and tongue in cheekish. I personally motorhomized my bus nearly 30 years ago and know how hard it is to get get all that "unsquare and built to be light and flexible" stuff to look the way that you are making yours look. It is a good project and I can't wait to watch your house start coming together and then to watch you get finished with your log home before I do. I know that can happen... My bus is still painted school bus yellow.
Now that you have had a chance to accept my appology for sounding crude, I can't resist posting a photo of a little project that Ed Kemper is involved in and could use a hand on. Don't worry. The pool is in good shape. He only needs help remodeling unit #2, #5, #8 and maybe the main house.

**Mosseyme** · 10-23-2010, 08:36 PM

Small lot, and 4 kids and 2 adult grandkids that won't leave home

**rreidnauer** · 10-24-2010, 04:57 AM

No harm done LHN. I didn't take it as crude at all. (I feel it reads as a compliment) Unfortunately, I don't think there'd be any money in fixing up RV's considering the man-hours required. That's not even mentioning certain things that still aren't up to snuff (nor will they ever be) that I have to "let go" and live with. (I'll point some of those out to anyone who visits in the future) Even with all the work, I wouldn't sell it to someone knowing these short-comings. It'll be good enough to get me through my build, but that's about it. To have fixed EVERTHING right, I would have had to started from scratch. Getting all mold and rot out is practically impossible.

Now, about that picture. So that explains why I couldn't find a deal on CONEX containers. This guy is using them for tower platforms!!!!
I got to admit, that is the most intriguing trailer park I've ever seen.

**edkemper** · 10-24-2010, 12:47 PM

That is an old picture. We've added three more "units" on the second floor and we added a small tennis court next to the pool. We also hired an on sight manager to keep the less desirables away.

**Mark OBrien** · 10-24-2010, 07:55 PM

That subfloor may be made of particle board. If so, replace it with OSB or I prefer 3/4" plywood with one smooth face so you can put new vinyl on top. If you have a seam in the plywood, you can smooth it over with a small box of Henry's floor patch at Lowe's. If they have any broken bags of patch, mortar or concrete mix, offer to buy them at a much cheaper price. They can't sell at retail and you get a good product for much less $$$.also, see if they have any remnants of vinyl. I reccomend vinyl back vinly as opposed to paper backed vinyl, it lasts much longer and is much easier to cut in when you install it. Pressure sensitive glue works best, and don't walk on it with hiking boots the first night. For your toe-kicks, you can curve the vinyl up if you feel confident enough to do that of get some 1/4 inch plywood and cut it into strips tall enough to cover the toe-kick and paint it black.that always works good as a cheap fix. Toe-kick material in the stores is VERY expensive.

**rreidnauer** · 10-25-2010, 06:08 AM

Got going on the floor. And (as I should expect) it is worse than I thought it was going to be. Surprisingly, it wasn't OSB/flakeboard. They actually used real 5/8" plywood! Salvaging carpet and vinyl is not going to be an option, but fortunately none of it was glued down, and was easy to pull up. However, nasty white mold was found under the vinyl and in some of the carpet padding. But what I found next when I started cutting out affected flooring was very disturbing.

Warning: Parental discretion is advised for the following image:

Yea, that's not spray foam. That's a seriously nasty case of thick, solid mold. Ick! The worse part is, while I will be able to get most of it removed, there will be spots where I simply cant get to. Ugh! Lesson here is, don't ever let mold get a foothold.

**hemlock77** · 10-27-2010, 03:41 PM

Originally Posted by rreidnauer

Got going on the floor. And (as I should expect) it is worse than I thought it was going to be. Surprisingly, it wasn't OSB/flakeboard. They actually used real 5/8" plywood! Salvaging carpet and vinyl is not going to be an option, but fortunately none of it was glued down, and was easy to pull up. However, nasty white mold was found under the vinyl and in some of the carpet padding. But what I found next when I started cutting out affected flooring was very disturbing.

Warning: Parental discretion is advised for the following image:

[IMG=600x450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/titantornado/floor.jpg[/IMG]
Yea, that's not spray foam. That's a seriously nasty case of thick, solid mold. Ick! The worse part is, while I will be able to get most of it removed, there will be spots where I simply cant get to. Ugh! Lesson here is, don't ever let mold get a foothold.

The small areas of mold you wont be able to remove, Will you be able to get to those areas with a spray pack wand, then douse it with some borate treatment?

**rreidnauer** · 10-28-2010, 11:37 AM

Without totally ripping the trailer apart and removing every shred of fiberglass insulation, there is no way to treat every possible spot, especially in areas where there are rather permanent structures. (shower stall, refrigerator cabinet)

I'll just get out what I can get out, spray what I can spray, and make due with whatever is left. As soon as I can move into my home, I'll rip the whole thing down. (maybe utilize the frame for a portable saw mill) Actually, in hindsight, I could have done better by buying (another) reefer trailer, and salvaging the appliances, windows, bath fixtures, etc, and making the reefer trailer into living space, and probably had it done in a shorter period of time/money that the course I ended up taking. But that's just typical hindsight.