I read in the FAQs that there are to many reasons why squaring off the top and bottom of the logs is not a good idea. Can anyone explain why?
I am planning on doing just that and have recently designed an built a chainsaw mill for that purpose. My intent is to square three sides of the logs.
One of the reasons is because when you cut into a log to flatten it, you are removing the natural layers of the log that protect it. Additionally, when you have flat on flat sections of log, moisture will want to wick into that joint & could cause issues.
If you are planning to build a log structure, I'd suggest taking the class if you can. It will save you alot of money in the long run.
Go out in the scrap pile and find two pieces of lumber that have been sitting since the last rain with thier flat sides together. Notice that they are wet when you pull them apart. Also notice the stuff that is growing in between them. That's the tuff that tries to eat milled log houses for lunch. Any moisture that hits the crack wants to migrate in to where the fungus wants to grow.
Take the class. With a name like yours you'll fit right in and you'll be an easy convert.
Thanks guys! I'm glad I asked. I would love to take the class hopefully they have one in the northeast. It seems like you have a good group of enthusiasts here.
Yes, we have alot of great folks around here, & especially on the member's side.
I took the class in 2006 & we've been in our place for over a year now. Absolutely wonderful.
There are designs out there for D-Logs with 3 sides flat but one thing you always want to be careful about is mixing methods. The people I have known who have made their own D-logs or used just flat sections mated have problems sealing between the logs to keep them air tight. That's where some people get the idea log homes tend to be cold. The LHBA method uses rebar to connect the logs which limits settling but as you logs shrink or expand the gap between the logs changes. There is rolled up insulation between the logs behind the chinking to fill this void as the logs expand and contract to keep the system tight for air infiltration. Some D-log designs use spikes or lag bolts about every 24". The ones that work best tend to overdrill the connector in the upper log so the spikes or screws don't hold the logs apart as they expand and contract and you don't change the gap but your whole wall will settle as your logs dry out and depending on your climate there will be season expansion and contraction of the log wall.
Of course as pointed out, you then have to have a method to deal with any moisture intrusion. Whatever system you use, you have to research and look closely at to make sure all aspects are thought through. That's why there are many different building systems for log homes each with their own unique problems. If you follow the LHBA system as taught in the class, most of these problems have been well thought through. If you start changing any of the systems and doing your own thing, you have to think through all the possible problems you may be causing or live with them when they occur. Good Luck.
Thanks Richard, My plan was to mill a groove in the center of the log and use spray foam to seal the logs, Then screw them down. I've been looking for a fungal treatment without much luck so far. To deal with the water intrusion I was thinking a wrap around porch and really big overhangs to keep the rain off. I am fortunate, I have the trees on my property so I should be able to compensate with adding roof size. Which brings me to my next question, What is better? I have white cedar and spruce trees to choose from. Any suggestions there?
Thanks Neil
White Cedar or Spruce? Which species would give you the better house. When you walk the property and measure do you have enough of one or the other to make the house. What diameters are they and are they good and straight? If your stock of timber is equal for both species... But of course it's not equal. Usually when you start really looking over a chunk of land that has house logs on it you'll see that you have one type of tree that just begs to be a house. Depending on the method of construction you use you may lean from to species or the other. There are ways to mix those species. For example if you want log rafters you might consider the Spruce for rafters and the Cedar for walls.
Hey Neil, You know this is all covered in class on the first day.
Sounds like you have a plan. I won't get into the hundred questions that pop into my mind and the possible problems. You'll figure them out when you get to them. Wrap around porches and big overhangs are a good idea. Spray foam has it's plusses and draw backs. Once it's set it won't expand more if your logs move. May or may not be a big problem depending on how dry your logs are and whether they have twist in the grain causing them to want to rotate slightly after placed and many other factors. Some people machine a groove in top and bottom so they can put in a spline to make sure there is no direct path for air from outside to inside. Lots of options.Originally Posted by Lazylogger
Ya gotta take the class. It's a real exciting ride. Best two days you'll spend even if you don't end up building a B&P style log home. Your view will never be the same. Welcome to the site.
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