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Thread: log building style question

  1. #11
    LHBA Member rreidnauer's Avatar
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    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by MTB

    Rod,
    The detail in you model is amazing. How big is the model? What size dowels did you use?
    Bob
    It was a bit of a runaway train that wasn't suppose to get that detailed, but that's just how I am. There is no need to create such a detailed model.
    The scale is 1:24, and represents an interior dimension of 35'x35', making the model approximately 27" long x 22" wide x 16" high. Most of the dowels are 1/2".

  2. #12

    Scribed and Pinned

    Dave,
    I really appreciate the information. I completely agree that a pinned home will not settle as much as one the is not pinned. That's why I'm not considering building a unpinned full scribed home. I believe the foam between the logs is the answer I was for "that makes sense", but my question still stands though with a few additional caveats. Is there a technical reason why a full scribed home that was also pinned, with foam between the logs and chinked ( I like the look of chinking) would not have all the same stability characteristics of a pinned and chinked butt and pass home?
    Please don't take my questions as an attack on the butt and pass method of building. I not intending to argue or debate with those who have much more experience in building than I do. I'm just trying to understand so I can proceed with a plan that makes the most sense for my family.
    Bob

  3. #13

    Question answered, thread locked

    The question in the original post has been answered. It would not be advisable to use rebar in a Scandinavian Chinkless style log home.
    It would be more standard to through bolt the logs, and then use a sping loaded nut.


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