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  1. #1

    starplate connectors and cheap housing

    So, we're still dreaming of a log home and getting closer in the sense that we are now totally debt free, but we still need to buy land, etc.

    Anyway, our problem is that we'd LOVE to do log but, like many on this forum, need someplace to live while building that DOESN'T cost more than our logs. Motorhomes/trailers aren't as readily available here as in the lower 48, so that is rare and a usually cold/wet/nasty option when found (and we have 4 kids at home). So, I've looked into yurts and tipis, small cabin construction, various other possibilities, and my current research interest is dealing with starplate connectors.

    Here's a Mother Earth News article that explains it: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1985-01-01/The-Starplate-Connection.aspx And I've seen adds for starplate connectors in Countryside magazine at strombergschickens.com

    So here's the dilemma/question: We need more space than a 9' (what they state as limits -- 2 x 4x 9' struts = 10,000 lb total roof load per website, about 57lbs/sq ft) strut would allow. We plan to switch to 2 x 6's regardless for insulation reasons, fyi. We could build 3 huts for the needed space, but would prefer one large one with a self-supported loft and one small one to house the bathroom/closet/storage/entry. We're considering doing something like use 16' 2 x 6's/8's with a center post for roof support, and possibly even a second hut frame immediately inside the first for a doubled-wall (extra insulation and also extra strength/support when tied together sufficiently). Building codes here aren't an issue (they only care about septic and zoning). I'm wondering if any of you have experience with these buildings and if you think the above would be a safe/strong building option for our cheap place to live while building. I've emailed the manufacturers about extending the length, adding a center post, and doubling the wall, and received no response to date. My non-engineer brain tells me that should be enough overkill to make it safe and strong (along with all the extra studs we'd have to tie it together with for wall sheathing, etc), but I just want to be on the safe side.

    Thanks guys and gals,


  2. #2

    The sonotubes have rebar in them

    and rebar wire wraoped around the threaded rod, but no bend in the threaded rod. some have a washer with a nut at the end. So, it's not very anchored...don't ask. We used Home depot tubes so I think they were 4ft? 5ft? Some of it is sunk in 3 ft some are 18" in the ground.
    Stessman, do you mean cable wire at the base of it attached to more concrete sunk in the ground? The penthouse is great, maybe we should have built that on our 40' hi cube.
    I do want to make this something lasting for later on. But we plan on laying low for a year and really see if this is where we want to build a log house.
    thanks

  3. #3
    LHBA Member StressMan79's Avatar
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    I have a similar thing

    However, it is much worse. I have a shipping container that weighs roughly 15k#, topped with a lightweight shed. We call it the "penthouse." The structure is ~18 ft high and only 8 ft wide... and the only thing holding it down is the mass of the container. Wind loads are pretty low, however...I have no guy wires, and it has been fine for at least two years now.



  4. #4
    LHBA Member loghousenut's Avatar
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    I say go for it....

    You're in Alabama aren't you. Look around you! Unless things have changed a bit in rural Alabama since I was last there 30 years ago, you have a well engineered mansion on your hands. No offense intended.

  5. #5

    The top story makes me nervous

    I'm with your husband ... I'd take off the top story to reduce the wind load ..... the other thing you can do is put out a few bucks to a structural engineer to get his opinion .... just a thought.

  6. #6
    LHBA Member StressMan79's Avatar
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    waaaay before

    I'd consider scrapping the top story, I would put in some guy wires. Basically just get some steel cable and some I-hooks and put a pad to fasten them to on both sides of the house, so the wires make ~45 deg with the ground. I'd do 3 per side. This might help you sleep at night, but if you put J bends on the threaded rod in the sonotubes, plenty of rebar and set them deep enough, there is very little chance that the structure will fail.
    -Peter.

  7. #7
    LHBA Member rreidnauer's Avatar
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    No guarantees . . .

    . . . but the structure itself looks like it should handle winds without issue. The weak point is the sonotubes. Are they strong enough? I don't know, but there are a few ways they can potentially fail.
    1. Threaded rod could break out of concrete or tear out of wood structure
    2. Due to low weight, sonotube may be pulled out of ground under high wind loading.
    3. Depending on depth, sonotube may topple (especially if soil becomes softened like during torrential hurricane rains) and break up
    Was any additional reinforcing rod added to the sonotubes before pouring the concrete? How is the threaded rod anchored into the concrete? Just stabbed in when it was wet? No "J" bend or anything?

  8. #8

    Engineers, builders, etc. Need help with stick frame temp cabin

    We are building in (Central East Alabama) a temp stick frame very loosely following Mother Earth news "build this cozy cabin" plan. We have added a 1/2 story to this plan and now it is tall and narrow...it just evolved into this. People have told us it will blow over or fall over in high winds. The dimensions are 14'X24' it is built on 12" sonotube piers below the frost line on southern hard "red clay" with a 6X6 "Timber rim foundation" around the perimiter sunk threaded rod and bolted down. It will have a 5/12 pitch roof with ~6" overhangs. It is platform framed. Has a height of 21' from the roof to the ground. The regional winds in Alabama here are 5-6 miles/hr. But the local winds seems windy and stormy alot. My husband is about ready to take off the top floor. There are no codes out here, so we just built it. We are building with 2x6 walls and plan to use plenty of hurricane straps and osb. My husband has some framing experience and using lots of reference books. So my question is is this thing going to fall over or blow over? Just trying to get debt free fast...or slow...Any advice is appreciated. here is a link. Thanks, Joy
    http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp227/joygoround/cabin/2010023.jpg
    http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp227/joygoround/cabin/2010024.jpg
    http://www.motherearthnews.com/multimedia/image-gallery.aspx?id=74398&seq=1

  9. #9

    Engineers, builders, etc. Need help with stick frame temp cabin

    We are building in (Central East Alabama) a temp stick frame very loosely following Mother Earth news "build this cozy cabin" plan. We have added a 1/2 story to this plan and now it is tall and narrow...it just evolved into this. People have told us it will blow over or fall over in high winds. The dimensions are 14'X24' it is built on 12" sonotube piers below the frost line on southern hard "red clay" with a 6X6 "Timber rim foundation" around the perimiter sunk threaded rod and bolted down. It will have a 5/12 pitch roof with ~6" overhangs. It is platform framed. Has a height of 21' from the roof to the ground. The regional winds in Alabama here are 5-6 miles/hr. But the local winds seems windy and stormy alot. My husband is about ready to take off the top floor. There are no codes out here, so we just built it. We are building with 2x6 walls and plan to use plenty of hurricane straps and osb. My husband has some framing experience and using lots of reference books. So my question is is this thing going to fall over? Just trying to get debt free fast...or slow...Any advice is appreciated. here is a link. Thanks, Joy
    http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp227/joygoround/cabin/2010023.jpg
    http://www.motherearthnews.com/multimedia/image-gallery.aspx?id=74398&seq=1

  10. #10

    This is a bit off subject.

    This is a bit off subject. But consider building a garage or shop building with a bathroom and everything to live in for a couple of years. Then you will have a permenant good structure that will serve you for decades. The extra living space can help you build a smaller house in the long run anyway. That is what I did. If you plan it all out right, then I think it can be much better and more cost effective than temporary structures.

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