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Thread: 16x16 dovetail cabin build -- zero gap or not??

  1. #1

    16x16 dovetail cabin build -- zero gap or not??

    I am making plans to build a 16x16 (plus covered entry porch) log cabin on my property in Vermont. I have decided to go with either a sawn-three-sides D-log profile OR a sawn 4 sides rectangular profile (probably 6"W10"H). The corner joinery will utilize dovetail notches with a chainsaw jig. I have seen both examples of 'zero gap' whereby each successive course of logs touches the preceding course with no chinking between OR alternatively each course maintains a healthy 1-2" gap between and is later stuffed with insulation and chinked (both sides interior and exterior?). I am using greenish (fresh sawn air dried less than 1 year) white pine. I am wondering if any experienced log builders can inform me on the advantages or disadvantages of gap vs zero gap? I would consider framing a 2x2 stud wall on the interior to increase insulating capacity. Thanks and I look forward to the discussion.

  2. #2
    LHBA Member loghousenut's Avatar
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    Most of us on this forum think only round log with chinking. Once you acknowledge a need for better insulation than a 6" log can provide, it brings up possibilities to consider that are out of our box of tools.

    If you are going to build a stick framed wall on the inside of your outside wall, why not build it out of 2x6 lumber and side it with real (or composite) log siding, skipping the D logs altogether...

    https://www.woodhavenlog.com/product...rior-products/

    Same look without any of the twisting, settling, warping or tweaking of those green milled D shaped beams. Easier too.

    My first option, personally, would be real logs with real meat to them inside and out. Spend an hour on our website and see if you like the idea.

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  3. #3
    LHBA Member rckclmbr428's Avatar
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    If you're building with semi green white pine, and plan on zero gap, you'll eventually have a gap once everything finishes drying. Go ahead and plan for the gap, it's easier to keep the weather out with an inch or so gap to fill with insulation then a 1/4" gap you're trying to caulk shut
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    The LHBA membership was probably worth twice what I paid, even if you don't build this style, and I wish they still did the Vegas class. The updated online content is great though and nice to be able to review again.

  5. #5
    LHBA Member mudflap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rckclmbr428 View Post
    If you're building with semi green white pine, and plan on zero gap, you'll eventually have a gap once everything finishes drying. Go ahead and plan for the gap, it's easier to keep the weather out with an inch or so gap to fill with insulation then a 1/4" gap you're trying to caulk shut

    I think rckclmbr is right on this one. And I have no experience with other styles, so I would trust his judgment on this.

    And mostly just commenting so you can see my blog in the signature - because I'm with loghousenut on this one... ("round logs"...)
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