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Thread: Disassemble/move a free log cabin

  1. #11
    LHBA Member ivanshayka's Avatar
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    Besides free materials, it might be easier to build one LHBA style.
    Every time I stray from teachings and suggestions of LHN it has saved me time and money.

    Don't suck face with no Banker who drives a nicer car than you do... LHN 3:21.7

  2. #12
    LHBA Member loghousenut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ivanshayka View Post
    Besides free materials, it might be easier to build one LHBA style.
    Ivan's only saying that because he hates telehandlers. I am not so limited. This thing could happen fast if you are organized.
    Every time I have strayed from the teachings of Skip Ellsworth it has cost me money.

    I love the mask mandate. I hardly ever have to bruh my teeth anymore.

  3. #13
    So, against my better judgement (because, what the heck, it'll make a great story either way), I am going to plan as if I am moving forward with the project.

    Here's what I've got so far:
    Every salvageable piece will be marked consistently with some sort of numbering system. I'm thinking cattle ear tags stapled to one end of each log, starting from one corner and moving clockwise around the building, working from the bottom up. only one tag each, because that will easily determine which end goes where.

    Remove the roof by cutting with a powersaw from side to side between each large timber rafter. hoist each rafter/roof section with a log truck loader, to be disassembled on the ground. Of course, roof sections are scrapped, rafter timbers are salvaged.

    Pull each log off the top of the now exposed wall with the log truck loader. Easy because the logs aren't more than 8' long right. Of course, we'd test this first. If it doesn't work for some reason, plan B is to pry them apart from the ends, cut the rebar as needed. Plan C is to drop the project. Take a less than $1000 loss. Gain experience.

    Probably won't mess with the flooring.
    Windows and doors and furnishings have been mostly claimed by other entrepreneurial types.

    Store for a year or more until I can obtain the perfect property.

    Tell me, would I be further ahead to buy a kit for $20,000? I know I know, kits are the Devil. But let's compare apples to apples here. Or maybe buy fresh logs and rebar for $? and take a class for $?

    If there's any interest, perhaps I'll make a timelapse video of the whole project.

  4. #14
    LHBA Member loghousenut's Avatar
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    I wish I was there

    Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk
    Every time I have strayed from the teachings of Skip Ellsworth it has cost me money.

    I love the mask mandate. I hardly ever have to bruh my teeth anymore.

  5. #15
    LHBA Member ivanshayka's Avatar
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    I would use B and T
    Every time I stray from teachings and suggestions of LHN it has saved me time and money.

    Don't suck face with no Banker who drives a nicer car than you do... LHN 3:21.7

  6. #16
    LHBA Member rreidnauer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camochris01 View Post
    Tell me, would I be further ahead to buy a kit for $20,000? I know I know, kits are the Devil. But let's compare apples to apples here. Or maybe buy fresh logs and rebar for $? and take a class for $?
    I think you probably already know the answer is option 3.

    Apples to apples. A kit is just the shell. One should be able to acquire logs and put up the superstructure for that kind of money you speak of. So a kit you have 5" thick walls, B&P you have a range of 10 to 24+ thick walls, depending on what you can get your hands on.

    My neighbor's place is a kit home. I don't live in a terribly frigid climate, and he is always complaining of being too cold, and his heating costs too high. He also says he very jealous that I'm basically building his dream home right next door to him.

    Kits aren't all that rosy when the apples get put in a line-up.
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  7. #17
    LHBA Member rocklock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camochris01 View Post
    Would it be practical to disassemble, considering the amount of rebar involved? and he doesn't think so... but I'm pretty sure it's just because he doesn't want or have time to deal with the process.
    If the "logs" are pinned with re-bar, I doubt you will be able to pull the logs off...

    If I were in your place, I would attempt to separate the logs first leaving most of the roof on... A neighbor was given a LHBA type of log home that was never finished with a roof. He wanted to use the logs for fire wood. He has two 20.000 lb track hoes. He attempted to use them to separate the logs. He failed. He ended up using a chain saw to separate large pieces so he could load them in his dump truck... He told me that he would never attempt that again...

    Again, I would make no commitments about removing anything until I tried to separate the logs...
    Dave
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  8. #18
    LHBA Member Axeman15's Avatar
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    There is one option. Apparently it happened to a guy our instructor talked about. He was able to use a helicopter and move the whole thing. Size may be very prohibitive as far as expense and complications.

    Some chopper operators need to log training hours.. this would be a Herculean task .
    Nothing easy will be done on this project , I agree, marking, labeling and then relieving spiking of purchase. If you do decide to undertake this project , might I suggest lots of pictures!

  9. #19
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    I worked with a man from Ohio who lifted his family's entire historic log home to dig and pour a full underground basement (no helicopters). I guess heli-lift could be one way to do it but flying over other peoples property might be a slight liability.

  10. #20
    LHBA Member logguy's Avatar
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    Why couldn't you just throw the 6' strap around a top log, take up the slack with the tele, and start cutting rebar every two feet with a reciprocating saw? Rebar cuts like butter.


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