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Thread: Disassemble/move a free log cabin

  1. #1

    Question Disassemble/move a free log cabin

    Hi all,

    I'm new here. After reading alot of the forum posts, this looks like a great community to be a part of.

    I have an opportunity to obtain a log cabin for free if I can move it. The current owners want to build new in its place, and haven't been able to find a feasible way to get the current one out of the way, other than demolition. Demolition is planned to start 2 weeks from now.

    It is 24' wide, 36' long, 33' tall. Vaulted ceiling in front, with a loft at the back. Poured concrete basement. Large brick fireplace. The logs are not full length, so lots of joints in the walls. The logs are swedish cope/saddle notched and pinned together with 12" spikes.

    If moved, I would put it on a 1 acre lot 1.5 miles from its current location and sell it (hopefully for a profit?).
    If disassembled, I would find a more ideal location for my needs, and live in it.
    Does anyone have experience moving or disassembling something like this? Please be blunt... I'd rather avoid getting neck-deep in a project I can't afford to finish.

    I have pictures if anyone is interested in seeing them. Not sure how to get those in a thread yet.

    Thanks,
    Chris

  2. #2
    LHBA Member rckclmbr428's Avatar
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    I've done a couple, if it's in good shape ie no rotted logs its all about labeling each and every log in a couple of ways, documenting extensively where everything is and how it has gone together and then carefully taking it apart. A telehandler is invaluable in the taking part and putting back together process
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  3. #3
    Would it be practical to disassemble, considering the amount of rebar involved? I know the guy building the replacement, and he doesn't think so... but I'm pretty sure it's just because he doesn't want or have time to deal with the process.

  4. #4
    LHBA Member StressMan79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camochris01 View Post
    Would it be practical to disassemble, considering the amount of rebar involved? I know the guy building the replacement, and he doesn't think so... but I'm pretty sure it's just because he doesn't want or have time to deal with the process.
    Indeed. You can never remove rebar. I'd run from this project.

  5. #5
    LHBA Member rckclmbr428's Avatar
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    Spikes aren't necessarily rebar, and if it's coped, there may only be a few spikes to deal with
    www.WileyLogHomes.com
    "Hand Crafted Traditions"

  6. #6
    In this case it is rebar. A window was added in the loft, and the guy said he hit it with his saw. Seemed to be randomly spaced. He guessed the size was 3/8". But let me get this building process straight... when these cabins are pinned together, my understanding of the process is as follows:
    1. Foundation has rebar pins in it. Bottom logs are drilled with holes to fit over the foundation rebar.
    2. Rebar is hammered into bottom logs half of the rebar length.
    3. Top logs are drilled to fit the rebar that has been hammered into the bottom logs.
    4. The top log in step 3 becomes the bottom log, rebar is hammered into it, and the process repeats itself.

    If the above process was followed in construction, I should be able to lift each top log off, leaving the associated rebar hammered into it to deal with later. This sounds too easy... I must be missing something?
    As a side note, the roof would be lifted off and scrapped.

  7. #7
    LHBA Member
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    "lift each top log off", may be easier said than done. Might be easier to cut the rebar in between the logs and drive it out after (or just leave it in there and move over when it's time to re-assemble). Better yet, you're moving it 1.5 mile, find someone that can move it for you without taking it completely apart. I saw a big old log home on a old farmers trailer one Sunday a few months ago (roof removed, just stacked logs, hung way off the sides of the trailer).

  8. #8
    LHBA Member rreidnauer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by allen84 View Post
    Might be easier to cut the rebar in between the logs and drive it out after (or just leave it in there and move over when it's time to re-assemble)
    Can't cut them. It's coped.

    Moving it complete is probably the wiser choice if you decide to tackle the process.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rreidnauer View Post
    Moving it complete is probably the wiser choice if you decide to tackle the process.
    Without seeing the project, I'd have to second Rod's conclusion here. Less labor intensive on your part (since you will probably end up hiring a house mover to move it for you), and way less of a chance to start trying to take things apart and deal with all of the unknowns you will run into.

    My advice on this

    1. Only take the disassemble route if you have the tools and resources (extra hands and money) to deal with a lot of problems and you already have a good idea of what you are doing (i.e. are a construction professional or have done this before).
    2. Only disassemble if you have a lot of time to work with, given it probably won't go as quickly or smoothly as you think it will.
    3. Only move it if you have something permanent to set it on, or can afford to have someone move the house twice.
    4. Only move if you have checked with your code officials. I am not sure how they treat moving houses and resetting up utilities to them. If they treat it as new construction and make you follow all of the new codes, you could be in for a real fun time of retrofitting the house. If they grandfather it in under the codes at time of construction, you should be ok.
    Last edited by Arrowman; 02-01-2017 at 08:08 AM.

  10. #10
    LHBA Member loghousenut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by camochris01 View Post
    In this case it is rebar. A window was added in the loft, and the guy said he hit it with his saw. Seemed to be randomly spaced. He guessed the size was 3/8". But let me get this building process straight... when these cabins are pinned together, my understanding of the process is as follows:
    1. Foundation has rebar pins in it. Bottom logs are drilled with holes to fit over the foundation rebar.
    2. Rebar is hammered into bottom logs half of the rebar length.
    3. Top logs are drilled to fit the rebar that has been hammered into the bottom logs.
    4. The top log in step 3 becomes the bottom log, rebar is hammered into it, and the process repeats itself.

    If the above process was followed in construction, I should be able to lift each top log off, leaving the associated rebar hammered into it to deal with later. This sounds too easy... I must be missing something?
    As a side note, the roof would be lifted off and scrapped.
    If built this way it would allow the logs to settle and seal the gaps and yet allow less than full length logs to be used. Sounds like it oughta come apart and go back together.

    Walk around the thing and poke it with a knife blade to see how much rot you have... especially the lower logs. Like Ronnie Rclmbr said, number them and make a detailed log of which is which and figure a system marking them that will not fail. I'd do an aluminum tag, stamped with a number, screwed to each end. You suspect that this baby will be restacked in 6 months but things are things and sometimes things make your logs sit around an extra year or two. Be sure to stack them well above the ground and I would lay 4x4 stickers between layers. If you are smart, they will come off the truck and stack in nearly the order they have to go back up.

    Rent a telehandler and find some dependable help and get it out of their way in less time than agreed. The deal doesn't work if you screw the former owners.

    This thing might be the start of your retirement nest egg if you follow through. Good luck and don't come whining to me if you get all sweaty and discouraged in the middle. Log homes and babies require a bit of sweat somewhere in their development.
    Every time I have strayed from the teachings of Skip Ellsworth it has cost me money.

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