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Thread: foundations

  1. #21
    LHBA Member jrdavis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by misplayed-hand View Post
    Man was *I* in violation of those rules when I built my stick built house years ago.
    but I was in Iowa, so it was probably okay.

  2. #22
    LHBA Member mudflap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by allen84 View Post
    Did I spill the beans? I've cut a handful of trees in preparation for a little (real tiny) camp shack that will go on an existing little concrete slab. I need to make a foundation for the logs outside of the concrete slab. I guess I need to haul all the kids out to start collecting rocks for me at this point. I wanted to cut down everything that might fall on the build area before I officially start building. I'm getting close to that point. I just have to figure out how to safely use lifting logs on top of concrete or solid rock. Planting anything is tough when you only have a few inches of soil.
    1st,2nd,maybe 3rd layer:
    -(1st drawing below): put the lifting poles on the concrete at the corners
    -tie off each pole with 4 tie ropes: 3 will be staked to the ground, one will be tied to the bottom of the pole kitty corner. It'll be difficult to maneuver with all the ropes, but try to do 2-3 courses this way.
    3rd or 4th layer:
    -(2nd drawing below): use ropes to tie the lifting poles to the existing courses in the corners to stabilize them against the existing courses.
    -Also tie the tops of the poles to the bottom of each of the neighbors

    -Make your own pulleys like I did- cost you $45 each, but they'll lift 5,000 lbs easily- lots cheaper than the ones you can buy for $300, and easier to find than the antiques on ebay. You'll need 8 triple blocks, plus 4 singles at the bottom of the poles. -Depending on how small your logs are, you could probably use a 4 wheeler to lift them. remember: to figure the mechanical advantage, you take the weight you are lifting and divide by the number of ropes you can grab in your hand between the pulleys (7 if you do it this way). that's the weight on the end of the rope.
    -buy 2 reels of 600' of 5/8" poly rope- some guy in Soddy Daisy sells it on ebay for $120 delivered.

    Capture.JPG

    and

    Capture1.JPG

    obviously, this is the public side of the forum, but all of this info is available in the army rigging manual.
    --
    "cutting trees is more important than thinking about cutting trees or planning to cut trees." ~ F. David Stanley

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  3. #23
    LHBA Member rreidnauer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief700 View Post
    I've heard there are no stupid questions. That said, I've sure met some inquisitive idiots. So leaning towards the latter, Is it possible to build in the BnP method on a Permanent Wood Foundation, and not concrete? I suspect not, but thought I should ask the experts.

    Thanks, Be Safe,
    I guess the question would be, "why?" Unless it will cost you less, it's hard to beat a masonry foundation of some sort. In a code-free area, slipform/rubble & concrete foundations can be done ridiculously cheap.

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  4. #24
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    I wish I had thought of the 50 gallon drum idea. If you wanted to cover it later you could just screw in brick ties before the concrete and put up rock for a pretty finish.

  5. #25
    LHBA Member mudflap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rreidnauer View Post
    I guess the question would be, "why?" Unless it will cost you less, it's hard to beat a masonry foundation of some sort. In a code-free area, slipform/rubble & concrete foundations can be done ridiculously cheap.

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    The 70 year old retired horse farrier who built the cabin I owned in Idaho did it that way- just gathered rocks off the local hillside and laid them all around the perimeter, then slathered them with concrete, and done.
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    "cutting trees is more important than thinking about cutting trees or planning to cut trees." ~ F. David Stanley

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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mosseyme View Post
    I wish I had thought of the 50 gallon drum idea. If you wanted to cover it later you could just screw in brick ties before the concrete and put up rock for a pretty finish.
    It will already have that finish. I will set the rocks in the form before I put in the concrete that will hold them in place. Look up "slip form masonry".

    mudflap... That's kind of what I was thinking as far as rigging. It's going to be small enough that me and some friends can probably set the first two or three layers by hand. I have 4 chainfalls so I can work by myself with no motor vehicle. 4wd drive is usually required to get there on a good day. On a bad day, 4wd is parked by the road and I have to walk to the site. The trees are farther uphill so I can roll logs down to where they will be LoL. One of these days I'll get a tractor or skid steer to make my life easier.


    Looks like there aren't any regulations for minors under 14 and I'm not employing them, just making them work. I'm good. 8 hours, no breaks.

  7. #27
    LHBA Member mudflap's Avatar
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    Ha ha! I saw something like this the other day:

    "how much was your allowance when you were a kid?"

    "I was allowed to sleep there."

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    "cutting trees is more important than thinking about cutting trees or planning to cut trees." ~ F. David Stanley

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  8. #28
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    so are you going to spray the barrel with pam ,

  9. #29
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    Ha, might not be a bad idea! I figure concrete reaching the barrel should be minimal. And probably a chance I might just have to cut them off. It'll be a first for me so I don't know how easily they may or may not "slip" off.

  10. #30
    LHBA Member rreidnauer's Avatar
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    Speaking of barrels for forms, for those doing a (finished?) basement, how cool would a stack of wooden barrels be, for the center RPSL column? Slipped over rebar, fill with 'crete, then just leave the barrels! Would take some figuring, making sure they stay aligned and don't separate during the pour, but if you pull it off, I think that would be an awesome feature.

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