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Thread: Conventional framed addition

  1. #1

    Conventional framed addition

    Hi all, I'm about to buy my first log home and the first thing we want to do is put an addition on. The plan is to do it stick frame. Can anyone give suggestions on ways to join the new 2x walls to the logs? I've talked casually to a contractor and he talked about cutting a channel in the logs. I'm doing most of the work myself, so looking for more input.

    Thanks much!
    Brandon

  2. #2
    LHBA Member
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    Got a picture to share?


    Peter

  3. #3
    Hey donjuedo, thanks for the reply...here are a couple shots. The plan is to put the addition from the outside of the closest set of windows over to the far side of the large picture window.



  4. #4
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    Do you have logs on the inside face of your exterior walls? Or is it drywall? It looks like it's probably drywall, but want to confirm before I give you some advice.

  5. #5
    LHBA Member rreidnauer's Avatar
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    Starting a wall off of the existing walls, I'd agree with the contractor in his suggestion. I would saw cut a vertical groove deep enough to be 1 inch further in than the most recessed undulations in the wall. Then take some 6" aluminum flashing, bending 3/4" of it back on itself to form a "J" channel. Fit the channel into the sawn groove, with the little J leg away from the addition wall. The J will secure the flashing in the groove and push the part sticking out against the side of the groove towards the addition wall. The J also serves as a last ditch water diverter. With the flashing installed, fill the groove with Logjam. Now you can frame your wall up against the flashing extending out from the existing wall, and sheathing over flashing with your choice of siding.

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    Rod Reidnauer
    Class of Apr. 9-10, 2005
    Thinking outside the vinyl sided box

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Bedwyr View Post
    Hi all, I'm about to buy my first log home
    My advice would be to think twice about that particular house.
    From what little I could see, lot's of partial length logs in the wall instead of logs running the full length.
    The bottom log looks awfully close to the ground on the uphill corner, and the vegetation has been allowed to grow up against the logs. Have you had this inspected for termites? How about rot, because the roof overhangs look almost non-existent.

    I'm not trying to rain on your parade but you may be buying into a whole lot of problems...either now or in the not-so-distant future.

  7. #7
    LHBA Member rreidnauer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rreidnauer View Post
    Starting a wall off of the existing walls, I'd agree with the contractor in his suggestion. I would saw cut a vertical groove deep enough to be 1 inch further in than the most recessed undulations in the wall. Then take some 6" aluminum flashing, bending 3/4" of it back on itself to form a "J" channel. Fit the channel into the sawn groove, with the little J leg away from the addition wall. The J will secure the flashing in the groove and push the part sticking out against the side of the groove towards the addition wall. The J also serves as a last ditch water diverter. With the flashing installed, fill the groove with Logjam. Now you can frame your wall up against the flashing extending out from the existing wall, and sheathing over flashing with your choice of siding.

    Sent from my Galaxy Edge+ using Tapatalk
    If you wouldn't want to spend a lot of time scribing your siding choice to the existing wall undulations, adding a couple additional bends in the flashing can provide you with a consistent edge to work up to.



    Sent from my Galaxy Edge+ using Tapatalk
    All my bad forum habits I learned from LHN

    Rod Reidnauer
    Class of Apr. 9-10, 2005
    Thinking outside the vinyl sided box

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Arrowman View Post
    Do you have logs on the inside face of your exterior walls? Or is it drywall? It looks like it's probably drywall, but want to confirm before I give you some advice.
    Hi Arrowman. It's full logs on the inside as well.

  9. #9
    Hey Rod...thanks much for the detailed response. This makes perfect sense (especially after the diagram . So in this case, the addition would basically 'free-stand' on it's own and really only be tied into the house this way and then where the roofs meet...?

  10. #10
    Well...that's solid advise LowKey. I've had it inspected and looked at by a separate contractor. The non-full length logs is an issue in a couple spots that will need fixing for sure. However, the issues have been there a while (maybe original settling)...house was built in '77. Other than that it's pretty solid. No rot, bugs, etc. Sill is in great shape.

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