Stainless Steel Rebar?

[NWscott]

. . . total cost of $650 for 100 sticks.

So, asking price of $200 for 91 sticks of 20 ft. would be considered a deal?

I'm aware there is a "Post your CL finds" thread, but unlike LHN, I am keeping on topic here

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/mat/5494544501.html

Craigslist to the rescue!

I'm still in the dreaming and planning stage Rocklock, after just taking the class in Feb (20-21). Anybody else in the Puget Sound looking for a good deal?

Etd66ss, at the end of the day...it's your pocketbook that is paying for it, and your peace of mind once they're in. Every home is going to be unique, so go with your dreams. (consider the helpful advice of those who've done it already too, or it may be a nightmare)

[taylorjones]

I am very attracted to the LHBA style, as they focus on element protection via overhangs and pier systems for airflow. But the main thing that keeps bothering me is the "sweating" that occurs with metal. I understand that the water penetration will be about nil, but I wonder about humidity.

I pulled off steel panels on a standing seam roof only 9 months old and there was moisture trapped between the steel and the synthetic underlayment from the rain occurring during installation. Granted, that is between a water tight and vapor tight barrier. Still, water can linger. I am still convinced this style of construction will outlast near all alternatives, but I am curious how the steel would fare after 500+ years.

[loghousenut]

I am very attracted to the LHBA style, as they focus on element protection via overhangs and pier systems for airflow. But the main thing that keeps bothering me is the "sweating" that occurs with metal. I understand that the water penetration will be about nil, but I wonder about humidity.

I pulled off steel panels on a standing seam roof only 9 months old and there was moisture trapped between the steel and the synthetic underlayment from the rain occurring during installation. Granted, that is between a water tight and vapor tight barrier. Still, water can linger. I am still convinced this style of construction will outlast near all alternatives, but I am curious how the steel would fare after 500+ years.

I worry about that sweating issue on the panels also. We put a 2" ventilated air gap under all of our steel roof that is over the living space. As for sweating of the rebar, I think it is a non-issue. That part of the system works a lot better than any of us mortal's work. It is just a log house and only has to last 4 or 5 generations to suit my wife. I'll get back to you when we know how my place does in the long term.

[taylorjones]

I worry about that sweating issue on the panels also. We put a 2" ventilated air gap under all of our steel roof that is over the living space. As for sweating of the rebar, I think it is a non-issue. That part of the system works a lot better than any of us mortal's work. It is just a log house and only has to last 4 or 5 generations to suit my wife. I'll get back to you when we know how my place does in the long term.

Did you fasten your panels to solid decking, with some sort of underlayment?
The ice and water shields are absolutely excellent at fulfilling their designed purpose. The problem though, even with Cadillac material such as Grace, is that they do not breathe at all. So any moisture present during installation...remains present.

As long as you have proper ventilation, I would not stress at all about moisture developing after install, as Ice and water is very waterproof (double edged sword). In all reality, products like Grace could suffice as water proofing your home alone, except for the fact that UV radiation will burn it up and the wind may do some work on it.

My advice if you want the most bulletproof roof:

IF your decking is dry (not bone, but very dry)
IF your panels are dry
IF it doesn't rain or drizzle a smidge
THEN you can just put on synthetic ice and water shield and your steel panels.

If there is any wetness, rain, etc, then install 30# felt over the ice and water. That will provide an excellent vapor barrier and allow water to weep out.

And of course, if you are not in a climate where ice damming is a concern, just go with 30# and steel regardless off how wet the product is during install.