Exterior stone and insulation

**tyler** · 03-01-2016, 08:44 PM

I just bought a log home and want to put some stone + insulation on 2 sides of the house. Below is a picture of it. The house has square logs with a double groove interlock they are 3.75in wide and have no insulation or false wall inside

Basically what I am wondering is can I install foam directly on the exterior of the home? It is about 50 years old so the logs should be there final size I believe correct me if I am wrong. Will this create any moisture problems? Is EPS fine or should I use like a fiberboard with better permeability to allow for moisture to wick better. Secondly can I screw the exterior stones directly to the wood or will there be changes in size of logs causing damage to the stone. The type of stone is from stonetile.com below is picture of a house with it.

Also can I cut the part of the log that sticks out past the perpendicular wall flush with it?

I know everyone here is like why cover up the logs. but the north side is wasting heat and I don't want to have to restain the entire house every few years.
I don't want false walls inside as I love the logs inside

**rocklock** · 03-01-2016, 11:00 PM

Originally Posted by tyler

I just bought a log home and want to put some stone + insulation on 2 sides of the house. Below is a picture of it. The house has square logs with a double groove interlock they are 3.75in wide and have no insulation or false wall inside
Secondly can I screw the exterior stones directly to the wood or will there be changes in size of logs causing damage to the stone.
The type of stone is from stonetile.com below is picture of a house with it.
Also can I cut the part of the log that sticks out past the perpendicular wall flush with it?
I don't want false walls inside as I love the logs inside

I have a rule that anything that has been milled is lumber. Logs are those round things that have bark on them.
Cut away. These things are called over dangles. Insure there is not a piece of steel inside the things that stick out.
I would treat it just like a framed wall.
I would put a moister proof barrier to protect the wood. Then the insulation in sheets. Then the stone. There should be a way to anchor the stone using the wood wall... You may need to stucco the wall before the stone to provide a firm foundation depending the instructions from the stone tile folks.

Good luck

**oldtrapper** · 03-02-2016, 07:27 AM

Remember, stone and brick soak up water and need to be permitted to dry out on both sides. There should be a vented air space between masonry and any wall. Otherwise, you can have moisture related problems on the internal side of the masonry wall. Further, if you are in a place where there is a freezing and thawing, the masonry will break down faster if it is not permitted to dry out (both sides) before it freezes.

**rreidnauer** · 03-02-2016, 08:30 AM

Most foam insulation board products are in of themselves, a vapor barrier. (Just be sure to seal joints!) If one was truly concerned enough, vertical furring strips could be attached to the existing wall before putting up the insulation board, and leave a small gap top and bottom to promote air exchange.

I just looked at some tech drawings on the website. Appears there are already provisions made to address water and air gaps. I really don't think there is any need for furring strips.

**tyler** · 03-02-2016, 01:24 PM

I'm not sure why the picture didn't work. so uploaded it to different site.

the stone that I am thinking of using has a 10mm~3/8in rain system built on to the tiles. so no furring strips are required.

So it goes from interior to exterior Logs, Foam 1", Offset foam 1", Taped all seams, Stone with rain gap?

the moisture between logs and foam will wick into house instead of like conventional homes where water goes the towards the exterior is that correct.

and can I cut the part of the log that sticks past the wall flush with the wall? Like where they overlap in the corner can I cut the extra off?