Aesthetics

[eduncan911]

To the OP, it may not be your cup of tea but it is a functional build that deters rotting, does not settle, and is simple for DIYers.

The class explains why. At first I didn't like it either. But after taking the class, it makes total sense. The boss didn't like it either until I showed her where aesthetically looking houses would rot here and there, where settling problems would occur, and how inexpensive the design is. She completely understandable now... It also helps that I've showed her like 100+ pics: it grows on you for a while.

Kind of like a current version of a Camaro vs a nice '67 without the flipdown headlight louvers: sure you can just finance a new $45,000 retro-looking car that fits in with aesthetics of modern day culture and the older '67 looks "old" and out of date. But, it is functional, easy to build and maintain and most of all makes the driver smile (with a lot more money in his pocket).

[LowKey]

I hadn't thought about using the protruding ends for supporting scaffolding, clever idea.

As far as my leaning towards doing something a bit different with the ends it would be towards clipping off the log ends rather than tacking short sections of log to fill the gaps between the dangles.

BTW, about staining.....has anyone tried pine tar mixed with turpentine? The stuff I'm talking about is also know as Stockholm Tar.
I've seen some recipes that included linseed oil, but IIRC linseed oil can encourage mold/mildew on wood in damp climates.

[LowKey]

To the OP, it may not be your cup of tea but it is a functional build that deters rotting, does not settle, and is simple for DIYers.

The class explains why. At first I didn't like it either. But after taking the class, it makes total sense. The boss didn't like it either until I showed her where aesthetically looking houses would rot here and there, where settling problems would occur, and how inexpensive the design is. She completely understandable now... It also helps that I've showed her like 100+ pics: it grows on you for a while.
.

Oh, I'm sold on the technique.
Trust me, I wouldn't be getting on a plane to squeeze my butt into a tiny economy seat for 24 hours of flight each way and the discomforts that are now part of modern air travel to attend a two day class if I didn't think this is the way I'm going to build it.

In this instance I'm just looking for ways to mitigate an appearance that I don't like. Clipping off the dangles almost flush may work nicely, or just making them shorter than most I've seen in pictures on the site (although I'm thinking about leaving one longer set of them higher up on the wall).


I suppose on the the first things I'll need to figure out....Sitka Spruce, Western Hemlock, Western Redcedar, or Alaskan Yellow Cedar? The last two are sort of pipe-dream ish, I suppose. Together the wife and I are eligible to take 20,000 board foot of timber from the national forest each year (with a free permit) I'm doubtful that I could find
enough of those of the right size close enough to the water for me to fell and tow home.
Siktka Spruce and W. Hemlock....that's everywhere.

I'd be looking at logs in the 2 to 3 ft dia range.
I'm also wondering if either of those debark well using a pressure washer.....I'm lazy, and somehow I'd prefer being wet and splattered with shredded bark vs going to town with a bark spud.

[eduncan911]

You can break out the chain saw and carve it anyway you like. (Most use scaffolding though, instead of the log-ends, was just mentioning an inexpensive alternative).

Personally, I'm cutting mine down near flush as well. But, I am saving that step until my very last choir as I may need them for something. Kind of like, "OK, all done. Now I can trim those back.". If, there is such a thing as being "done."

[LowKey]

You can break out the chain saw and carve it anyway you like. (Most use scaffolding though, instead of the log-ends, was just mentioning an inexpensive alternative).

Personally, I'm cutting mine down near flush as well. But, I am saving that step until my very last choir as I may need them for something. Kind of like, "OK, all done. Now I can trim those back.". If, there is such a thing as being "done."

I think there's an old Chinese proverb that goes something like, "The only man who is finished working on his home is one who is dead".

I'll probably be tinkering with something right up to the point that the Grim Reaper shows up.
Then I'm going to get him to hold the other end of the board in place.

[Mosseyme]

We are using eastern hemlock but I don't know how it is compared to western hemlock. I do know it is a dream to peel compared to pine or poplar or any of the hardwoods. We had not done any peeling before we started ours and quite some time later we tried to peel poplar winter cut and a few others and we were like WHAT! I do like the fact that when peeled the wood is very smooth because the sap is not sticky like the pines and comes off completely including the cambium very easily, relatively speaking. Of course giving it a few months for the bark beetles to work on it may make it come off in 3-10 foot sheets. Also most of the bugs except the bark beetles don't like Hemlock so that is a plus.
About the pressure washing. We have 3200lb pw and pulling water from a tank filled from a creek with only about a 30' head and using a pressure pump assist we don't get enough pressure to peel anything. They I believe are made to be working off of water with pressure already behind it. Someone probably has a answer that would fix that.
As far as overdangles go I do like the longish overdangles and think that to short of ones look a little odd especially with really big logs but to each his own. We are cutting ours back more than I really want on the lower part because of decks and porches and practicality of getting around them
I would suggest as Ed said to leave them until complete. It is really hard i hear to put them back on.

[LowKey]

I would suggest as Ed said to leave them until complete. It is really hard i hear to put them back on.

I can imagine.

[Mosseyme]

You probably already said somewhere but what area are you located?

[LowKey]

You probably already said somewhere but what area are you located?

ME? At the moment, the middle east (for my sins )
My property is in SE Alaska, where I sincerely hope to grow deep roots.

[rocklock]

Oh, I'm sold on the technique.
Sitka Spruce, Western Hemlock, Western Red cedar, or Alaskan Yellow Cedar?
I'd be looking at logs in the 2 to 3 ft dia range.

Several comments... If you were not attending the class, I wouldn't bother...
Spruce has more taper than most, which has some limits...There are lots of beetle killed in Canada. WRC has some strength issues (in comparison to Doug Fir) and doesn't yellow cedar have a smell?
I have hemlock in my home and it is great. It dries a little weird (bumpy).
We measure logs at the small end and I think you are thinking thinking the big end... When you start talking to a real log guy and mention the large end he will know you are a beginner. So talk about 14 to 18 inch tops... Depending on taper they will be in your range...

Chinking can only be minimized my skill and careful matching of same species of very straight logs. A log index is most helpful. And if you want to whack you over dingles - knock you self out...