What is it that allows the Butt and Pass method not to settle?

[thoner7]

I am curious as the the engineering behind it? If the logs themselves shrink and get smaller how can the whole house not do the same?

Another reason I am curious - I dream of building a house in the shape of a T, that would basically be two rectangles interwoven together, allowing the two rectangles to share some walls and giving me some interior log walls - like my design below. The two interior corners, it may be better for me to do the notched design rather than butt and pass. Still not certain yet, but I wanted to find out why these houses dont settle before I decide...

BUT - my main question - If I do those corners differently, will they settle while the rest of the house doesnt? Or if they are spiked with rebar just the same, will they be ok?


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[thoner7]

My design didnt work, let me try something else...

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[panderson03]

the logs do shrink (each of them toward its center). all the rebar in our builds keep the walls from getting shorter great question

[rckclmbr428]

If you mixed styles you would have to account for settling in the notched part but not the rebar pinned part. I would recommend doing it all one style, obviously I prefer the rebar style.

[thoner7]

So you are saying that the logs diameter shrinks but the log will stay centered on the rebar - so the entire structure together doesnt settle?

Is that why you only drive the rebar half way through the log below, and not all the way through?

[loghousenut]

I don't know about the rest of us but when I get that rebar pounded in halfway through the log below, I'm about done. The log below is not drilled, so you are driving a blunt 1/2" diameter nail (with ridges on it) entirely through a 1/2" hole in the upper log, and then 1/2 way through another log that is not predrilled. It's kinda fun the first 30 or 40 times you do it.

Half way through is plenty, and If you tried going much further it would be easy for the occasional errant, slightly bent, rebar to exit out the lower side of a log and split out a big ole chunk of log.


This won't make sense to a lot of folks who have not been to class but it seems that you (tnoner7) have a pretty good grasp of loggy things. There's a March class. Guarantee you'll never regret it.

[Timberwolf]

I find it better to refer to the LHBA way as "Tight Pinned Butt and Pass" as you could use a butt and pass corner system with squared timbers (as many "kit home" manf do) and you will get appreciable settling


The entire "Does not settle" is ever so slightly incorrect (and I believe has been pointed out here before but is worth mentioning). Technically the house does settle a tiny bit. But not in any appreciable way to matter. As/if/when the bottom log looses moisture, the house will reduce in height by 1/2 of the amount it shrinks. For most, this will occur before any doors are cut, and if built on pier blocks, is irrelevant.
Additionally, the top most logs are subject to the same effect. However, since the roof follows evenly (and can weigh up to 10 of thousands of pounds) there will no gap, lowering required or consequence to be born. My own house has zero problems with doors or windows opening (except for 1 problem, due to improper installation from the company I bought them from, but that's another story) and I made no account for settling at all.

As a whole, the LHBA system (and it is a system) of building, is simplicity at it's core, longevity at it's heart and strength throughout.

[AkChas]

Short answer to this question -- and MANY others that you may not even be aware of yet -- Take the LHBA class!
It will open your eyes....and possibly make your Jaw Drop! (Mine did -- still does sometimes : )

[rocklock]

I have over 900 23" rebar pins in my log home... It does not and has not settled...

I suggest you try a little experiment. Get a scrap piece of rebar that is 1/2 inch in dia... Then drill a 1/2 hole in a green log or a tree if your short a log... pound in the rebar about 4 inches. It should be very easy... Then try to take it out... Do not try to take it out with something expensive like your pickup... you might break something...
After you try this experiment, then you will understand...

I have a wall that has had drywall (to form the bathroom) up to a horizontal log that crosses my log home. If my wall shrank, the drywall would crumble or some how show the effects of shrinkage... It doesn't. Hence my log have not shrank. Period...

About your design. You have a lot of walls vs your interior area... You have 10 segments... Lets say each is 15 foot long... Then you have 4 times 225 sqft or 900 sqft... for a log wall that is 150 feet long...

My log home is 900 sqft with a wall length of 120 ft... Then I have a free basement, another 900 sqft, and then I have 16 foot wall which allowed a second floor... or a total sqft of about 2550 sqft...

But different strokes for different folks...

good luck

[loghousenut]

As a whole, the LHBA system (and it is a system) of building, is simplicity at it's core, longevity at it's heart and strength throughout.

WOW!!!... What a quote!!!

Fuzzy, you oughta claim that one as your tag line before it enters the public domain where someone can steal it. It has heart, soul, and brevity, while retaining accuracy.